I've drilled my first hole to attach a steel frame to the concrete ceiling. To ensure that the plastic plug wouldn't stick out, I drilled quite deep. Suddenly, the drill went very fast for a few centimeters, then came a shower of water with good pressure.
I usually have luck with my endeavors and hope this was a sign not to get unlucky in a worse way. For example, hidden seepage that doesn't show until all the panels are in place.
I chiseled out the pipe and laid a coupling and will create an inspection hatch and drainage to indicate if the coupling starts to leak in the future. It's in a small shower corner, so it's not the end of the world with the coupling in the concrete slab ceiling.
Now to the question:
Of course, I want to avoid more showers with subsequent inspection hatches and want a shallow drilling for nails/screws.
What should I use?
I read that an expansion nail is good because the holes are shallow. I then found a type and found the shortest one at 60 mm. I only need it 8.6mm long for my steel studs with 0.6 mm thickness. Is there a super short expansion nail or plug/screw?
Thankful for all the helpful people on this site. Some have an incredibly high number of posts that seem reliable.
I usually have luck with my endeavors and hope this was a sign not to get unlucky in a worse way. For example, hidden seepage that doesn't show until all the panels are in place.
I chiseled out the pipe and laid a coupling and will create an inspection hatch and drainage to indicate if the coupling starts to leak in the future. It's in a small shower corner, so it's not the end of the world with the coupling in the concrete slab ceiling.
Now to the question:
Of course, I want to avoid more showers with subsequent inspection hatches and want a shallow drilling for nails/screws.
What should I use?
I read that an expansion nail is good because the holes are shallow. I then found a type and found the shortest one at 60 mm. I only need it 8.6mm long for my steel studs with 0.6 mm thickness. Is there a super short expansion nail or plug/screw?
Thankful for all the helpful people on this site. Some have an incredibly high number of posts that seem reliable.
Then it will be those.
I am a boat owner, and there are many poor examples of stainless screws in aluminum where the aluminum has disappeared in the area near the screw.
Now it's in a salty environment, so the risk is probably small. However, I think that the tubular steel nail could have been 15-20 mm and had a head. That would have been perfect.
I've never been a big fan of aluminum. Good as an electrical conductor and for heat sinks. If you screw a stainless screw into an aluminum boat, soon there will be no screw left.
I am a boat owner, and there are many poor examples of stainless screws in aluminum where the aluminum has disappeared in the area near the screw.
Now it's in a salty environment, so the risk is probably small. However, I think that the tubular steel nail could have been 15-20 mm and had a head. That would have been perfect.
I've never been a big fan of aluminum. Good as an electrical conductor and for heat sinks. If you screw a stainless screw into an aluminum boat, soon there will be no screw left.
What will happen to the glue in 30 years? Will it produce gas, or will it release, or will some bacteria come and eat it up? I prefer not to use materials that haven't been used for at least 30 years when it's time to redo it again. Has the glue been around for a long time?mats_o said:
My basement is now 30 years old and made in a way that is no longer allowed. Wooden studs, of course. Fully sealed vinyl flooring that completely traps moisture from the slab. Yet the wood has survived except in one spot where a casting defect in the concrete slab likely allowed water to seep in during "wet periods." There, the bottom plate had completely rotted away over a few decimeters.
No odor, fungi, or mold formation. The wood was practically gone, and the remains were dark brown and resembled coal.
Probably, it just got wet and then dried. The basement is dry, and thus there's no mold formation in the short time the wood is damp after heavy rain, for example.
Likewise, it's just regular drywall. No problems there either. No mold spots or bad smells. So drywall I could use, but there are regulations.
Even in the shower corner, the drywall was perfectly fine under the wet wallpaper. It has been rarely showered in, and that's probably the reason. In the rest of the space, the relaxation room outside the sauna, I'm planning to keep the drywall-wood stud wall. The basement wall is shared with the neighbor's (townhouse) and dry, as well as the slab, which is 1 meter above the neighbor's slab and should continue to stay dry.
Oh, it sounds like I have a salty environment in the basement but that was a misreference. It is, of course, in the boat that I have a salty environment, but in the basement, aluminum/steel is probably not a risk construction. Possibly at the bottom if water happens to seep in a little too often from a leaking wet zone. But if you've glued it, it will hold anyway. The wall will certainly stay even if a plug comes loose. Otherwise, you could screw it in afterward, it can hardly be a big deal unless you have hung something heavy, a wall toilet, or so.
I'll probably go and buy a tube. It feels shaky to drill into the concrete, and the pipe I drilled into was 20 mm in. I have a plumbing schematic now, but in some places, I'm attaching the profile with glue, it seems safest.
Is PL400 the right choice? Are there any health regulations? I don't want anything that emits gas when it ages or gets wet.
Is PL400 the right choice? Are there any health regulations? I don't want anything that emits gas when it ages or gets wet.