Building Materials and Construction Technology
BigGitt: YOU have to wait until someone more knowledgeable looks at it. I'm not going to guess.
Elvis69: Doubtful if you can find this as a stock item anywhere. 3 m is usually the maximum. Sheets longer than that are quite tricky to handle... ;-)
fredand44: Hello! But maybe just under the part where I need it to be lower to make room for the sliding door, it's probably not a bad idea. The rest might be quicker to brick. Brick will probably be 3-4m and casting about 90cm. Best regards, Fredrik
barajag: Wood works excellently but the problem is the risk of tilting if the water splashes a lot. But if you can build, for example, 2.5 X 2.5m then it's a different matter. Trucks do drive over wooden bridges so wood certainly holds if it's dimensioned for it.
Jan-Å: [citat] No, it's impossible, those industry regulations change continuously :rolleyes:
Skier12345: Polish the pipes with the mortar you will use later.
Wand: A tip is to go and buy the cheapest jigsaw you can find at, for example, jula and saw blades, cut them to the length you need, e.g., 13mm as a drywall is, then you can go on walls without cutting into the studs. It's useful if you need to cut out a piece in the wall, the piece becomes straight and nice and can be put back later or used as a template, or if you need to do like magnu, cut out a
Mohha: Yep, it would be one or two steps down to the patio floor if you bolted it to the foundation...
barajag: [citat] Oki. But were you planning to have gips on the ceiling? In that case, it doesn't really matter, but even if you bring it in, you have something to stand on when you're working on the ceiling.:)
barajag: [citat] Yes of course you need to be 100% sure about what it looks like underneath, but if you have added insulation yourself and haven't had any problems, then it feels pretty safe to put up drywall.
Leica: If you then put a layer with a so-called Västkustskiva against the plank wall and then a layer with regular insulation, or should I put wind barrier paper on the plank wall and then insulate directly against it?
fiaelia: Hello! We want to build a patio with paving bricks, but this is a completely new area for me and I need a bit of information. There are many colors of brick and plaster around the garden, so it would be nice to have paving bricks with varying colors (red) to unify and pick up. Naturally, this leads you to the more exclusive brick manufacturers' websites and you find the "perfect" brick for the
Returia: I know someone who has loads of doors. If you're interested, PM the measurements etc., and I'll check if your specific requests can be met. You will have to cover the transportation costs from Skåne yourself.
guppyhane: Thank you Alexandesrsson, theofils was just the type of store I am looking for with a large range of "hardware" if anyone knows similar stores in the other areas you mentioned, please post a link.
westen: I'm building a house and the garage is connected to the house, so I'm guessing it should have double plasterboard, but is there anywhere in the BBR regulations that says you must have a fire door into the house? :S
leffeholm: ;)Hi, I'm in the process of finishing a Halle conservatory. The floor -uninsulated- consists of 5cm cement tiles 40x40 laid in a pattern. Now it has turned out that grease stains and others appear when you drop food etc. on the floor, which absorbs the grease. Can you treat the tiles with some repellent agent so the problem doesn't occur...? water glass or something else? leffe:(
Fritz2: Partition walls are about 10 cm thick, load-bearing walls should be at least 20 cm and in your house, the load-bearing wall should be lengthwise. To be sure, you should contact a structural engineer who can give you definitive answers. If you make changes and accidentally cause damage because you have weakened the house's structure, you will have problems with the insurance.
berra77: When I was going to gypsum the ceiling in a former laundry room, I discovered that the pipe penetration in the ceiling where a dryer was mounted was not sealed and warm/moist air has leaked into the ceiling, causing approximately 1m2 around the penetration to rot. (The room is on the second floor and the pipe goes through the ceiling->Attic->outer roof.) My plan was to do as follows (but I am
sege: A stud wall (150mm) is to be built, [bild] , for the expansion of an old bathroom on the upper floor. The bottom plate is attached to the concrete slab. Now to the question: is it sufficient to attach the existing door frame that was previously set in lightweight concrete blocks, can the top be attached to the wood paneling that sits on the underside of the roof truss? (The other side of the door
racer: Byggmax, have bought a few hundred meters of that trim there..
baronbrodde: I can highly recommend fascia timber indoors; it brings life to the entire house. Attaching a picture of our hallway where we have installed fascia timber.
Grop: Our outer staircase has lost part of the stone surface on an area of about 10x10 cms on one of the risers. The cause is likely that the reinforcement appears to be very shallow in this particular riser. Now, it's not a huge area that needs tidying up, but where can I get suitable stone material? I don't need 50 kg... The stone is probably a marble crush, black/white. I've looked around at flower
Hubbe2: But you have two gables, so the width times the height will give you material for both sides! ;-)
v-g: Place an extra piece of cardboard/plastic under the support then. Alternatively, set the whole thing on double metal plates; if they are smooth, they will be the ones to slide first and foremost. I'm not a builder, but I have seen several constructions where they simply just hoisted up stairs on cardboard without any problems; the cardboard actually withstands more than you might think.
hagaby: You should have the same quality as in the other beams!
barajag: Try to use some extra long screws where it protrudes the most before you "dab":)
jeppeknaster: Started smoothing out my rough door opening yesterday with Byggmax bruk B and encountered some problems. I've attached two planks on the sides that I'm using as guiding rails. How thick can you apply the mortar on the vertical parts? At the thickest, it's probably 5-6 cm, and I find that it tends to slide down due to the weight. Should I instead split it into two thinner layers? How long should
Jan-Å: I let the frames end 15 mm above the concrete and placed a piece of treated wood underneath. I don't know if it's a good solution that works but you have to do something :) I have framed out the walls because I have also added insulation to the garage, so hopefully, I have moved the water splash out a bit. Maybe you can do something similar at your place?