Building Materials and Construction Technology
imported_hans: Hi C, pretty sure that the pipes for both smoke channels and ventilation go only to one "user" and stop at the respective floor. Googled chimney when the thread was created and got two or three links that were interesting (too rushed to link now), so unfortunately, there isn't much technical info about older chimneys. To find the right pipes, I would use a plumb line and string; that way, you can
jakobassarsson: I would have constructed a frame of 45x70 wood and let the outermost rule go up to the ceiling and secure it with a dowel. It can't get more stable than that.
jakobassarsson: Hello Option 1: Age-resistant tape between plastic and frame Option 2: Backer rod in the gap between the wall and the frame + soft sealant Option 3: Use plastic-filled backer rod (the innermost strip)
sled: [citat] Didn't do any sawing today.. My partner didn't think it was a good time to bring out the saw :@ Found some good information: A trick to make the MDF board flexible is to make a number of grooves in it at regular intervals. The depth of the groove should be about ¾ of the board's thickness and the distance between the grooves about 12 mm. After such an operation, the board is flexible but
hama65: It seems to be called "listspik" according to Gunnebo's catalog. http://www.gunneboindustries.com/sv-se/Fastening/Produkter/Spik/Lattbetongspik/Listspik/ Klippspik is something completely different. http://www.gunneboindustries.com/sv-se/Fastening/Produkter/Spik/Lattbetongspik/Klippspik/ Listspiken is available at K-Rauta http://www.k-rauta.se/verktyg_3345.htm
barajag: [citat] :D Oki, yes then I would have done that. :)
Mrs B: Question 1 In our bedroom (which is unnecessarily large at about 30 square meters) we are planning to build a dressing room. We will build it in a corner of the room. In the same room, we will put up drywall over the sauna ceiling:rolleyes: (i.e., whitewashed pine planks) and also remove the laminate floor and lay parquet. Now to my question; which should we do first? Can we start with the
FredrikoKarl: Quoting from Smålandsvillan's website regarding their tolerances: "HusAMA 83 chapter 3 HUS, TOLERANCES apply in applicable parts. For subfloor and floor, table 3A applies. For composite wall elements, table G6.13 applies." Is there any kind soul who knows what these tolerances are and would like to share about it? :)
Krillew: Well, you don't want to risk getting condensation on the vapor barrier.. then you'll have problems. If it's heated inside, the risk is minimal unless you place the vapor barrier on the outermost part. And you can get the opposite phenomenon if it's not heated.
BigGitt: [citat] NO PROBLEM! You can saw alongside the walls and fix the rest! You'll be satisfied!
Hawkai: Hello, I have an arch where the upper corners are rounded with a radius of ~30cm. On the inside of the arch, there is plywood today, ~5-6mm thick. However, I have had to remove part of it and want to replace the whole with new plywood. The sheet/arch is 30cm deep. Is plywood bendable with a radius of 30cm or does it require some form of treatment before it can be bent to that radius?
D09: change at the last second... switching to track panel 15x120 =) http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=40664
viktordt: Just ripped out a moisture-laden 60/70s wooden structure from my basement. Inside one of the now demolished interior walls, I found these two round metal rods, 6 mm in diameter, in something that looks like stainless steel. One comes from a joint in the foundation, the other comes through a ceiling beam. They appear to be inserted from above, and would then come from an exterior wall. But the
Yrrol: I have opened both walls by the staircase. I'm wondering if noggins between the studs would be good to reduce the vibrations that occur when people hurry up the stairs. Or would that only have the opposite effect, I wonder? the light ones = as it is today... dark+green - a little symbolically how I thought; [bild]
enflex: Thanks for all the responses! :) Sometimes my fingers move a bit too quickly over the keyboard. Thanks for pointing out about the insulation, of course, I meant stone wool and not steel wool. Insulating with Svinto - not a good solution? ;) // Martin N.
Chinaski: Hepp, probably found the solution myself: http://katalog.essve.se/webspeed/katalog/kat_produkt.p?bid=V70&kat_bid=V70&dokid=wc396674 Metal expanders for triple gypsum that can handle 36-45 mm were available for order through my local hardware store.
estwing: nail on your plyfa+gypsum.... best regards estwing
Richtmann: Make it out of sheet metal? just attach a rule on the roof and one on the wall, so you can easily screw into them, mdf/wood works well too, maybe a bit nicer as well.
Immobil: The edges are brushed a couple of times with oil paint.
Mikael_L: A possible dryer should be attached to studs and noggings. Only in the sheet material probably won't be good.
fredand44: Thank you, thank you! Spiro, that's what it was called! Best regards, Fredrik
fredand44: Hi! Thanks for the response! Best regards, Fredrik
carlbanan: http://www.setragroup.se/upload/Bilder/Sagade_travaror/Produkter/Thumbnails/Hornkloss-th.jpg Something like that, right?
JKHANSSON: just came up with =) that if you build the pillars first, you can attach the form in some way to them.
MrKarlsson: Hi. I'm planning to redo the chimney above the ridge now in the spring. I think it would be fun to add a little "style" to it. I can't find any good pictures, does anyone know where to look? I've tried searching for "skorstenskrona" but haven't found much. It might also be some inspiration for others too? Best regards, Johan