janwide
Planning to work on the facade and roof this summer. Thinking about constructing a scaffolding in wood.

Partly to avoid the stress of a rented scaffolding that stands there costing money. With a self-made scaffolding, it can stay as long as you want (or until the neighbors' aesthetic council knocks on the door).

And partly because it's fun to build yourself :)

Has anyone done this and have any tips?
 
Hi,
Don't count on any craftsmen stepping onto your scaffolding; they often aren't allowed to do that. They often aren't even allowed to step onto a chair at a private residence without bringing approved heavy stable platforms with them.

Otherwise, make sure it's stable and doesn't sway; oversize it properly.

Another option is to buy something on Blocket and then sell it when the summer is over.
 
If you can get ahold of spruce poles, you've solved the posts. As planks to walk on, something like 145x45 and thicker works, with support every 3 meters approximately. Screw a board underneath them so they aren't so wobbly to walk on, like an oil platform. A tip is to screw everything, buy proper screws in dimensions like 100x6, 120x6, etc., so it’s much more enjoyable to assemble and disassemble. It’s also good if you don’t make the platforms too narrow, 1m is quite okay. Don’t forget to put up railings and support the scaffold properly. Attach it to the house as much as possible.
 
All scaffolding platforms should be constructed with "rated" scaffolding planks c24 (always painted red on the short end).

And secured EU-pallets on their side are stable if placed every meter, with a cross brace fixing 3 at a time. This is for single-story houses with a working height of about 3 meters; if you need to work higher, only approved scaffolding options should be used.

Regular 145x45 are directly dangerous to walk on! You only have one life, so don't take chances. Too many 2" x 4" scaffolds have been seen with people risking their lives.

You live a bit far away; otherwise, I had 200m of used rated c24 planks to sell, along with about 70-80 EU-pallets. (I used them myself for facade work, very stable even with 400kg on the scaffold)

Best regards, Jawen
 
If you want to be picky, scaffolding companies say it's even C30 classification for scaffolding planks, but maybe different requirements apply depending on scaffolding and scaffolding? The most important thing, in any case, is to use common sense, I think. In a perfect world, no homemade scaffolding is used and all safety requirements are 100% complied with, but we live in reality and, as TS says, it’s also a cost issue to consider. But don't be foolishly stingy, is my only concrete advice.

jawen said:
All scaffolding platforms should be built with "classified" scaffolding planks c24 (always red-painted on the short end).

And secured EU pallets on their side are stable if placed every other meter, with a cross brace that secures 3 and 3. This is for single-story houses with a working height of about 3 meters, if you are working higher, only approved scaffolding options should be used.

Regular 145x45 are directly dangerous to walk on!, and you only have one life, so don't take the chance. Too many 2" x 4" scaffolds have been seen with people staking their lives.

You live a bit far away, otherwise, I had 200m of used classified c24 planks to sell, together with about 70-80 EU pallets. (used them myself for façade work, they were very stable even with 400kg on the scaffold)

Rgds Jawen
 
I built a scaffold this summer for house painting and can confirm that regular studs are really bad as the lumber quality is often sadly poor. I used 190x45 and 120x45, several broke when I did the jump test on them, and 2 cracked in the scaffolding. So if you're not using fall protection (which is not attached to the scaffolding ;) ) skip this option. Nails worked better than screws as nails bend and screws just snap without warning.
 
I have a self-made scaffolding for my house, entirely made of wood.

The posts are 120 x 45 with a crossbeam, looks like a large H.

The planks I walk on are 220 x 45, 4 in width.

For bracing, I use 28 x 70 in a cross pattern.

Don't forget to secure the scaffolding to the house. I use carriage bolts for the posts and long screws for the planks.

I have a 7 m high house, the scaffolding has 2 levels, has worked perfectly:wow:
 
TS, maybe we should team up and share a purchase. Will probably need a ställning later this year. :)

I have looked at ställningar and they are available to buy for approximately 6000 SEK. Should be able to sell them later with some deduction.
 
janwide
cederbusch said:
TS, we might team up and share a purchase. Will probably need scaffolding later this year. :)

I've been looking at scaffolding and they can be bought for roughly 6000 SEK. Should be possible to sell it later with some deduction.
The idea isn't wrong. However, I'm considering scaffolding that's about 11m long with a platform at 3m height. Want to avoid moving the bulky thing around. Don't think you can find one like that for 6000 SEK. Or ???

Renting something like that goes between 5000 - 15000 for 4 weeks.
 
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jawen said:
All scaffolding platforms should be constructed with "graded" scaffolding planks c24. (always painted red on the short end)

And secured EU-pallets on edge are stable if placed every meter, with a crossbar fixing 3 at a time.
This is for single-story houses with a working height of about 3 meters, if you need to work higher, only approved scaffolding alternatives should be used.

Regular 145x45 are directly dangerous to walk on!, and you only have one life, so don't take chances, one has seen too many 2" x 4" platforms with people putting their lives at stake.

You live a bit far away, otherwise, I would have had 200m of used graded c24 planks to sell, along with about 70-80 EU-pallets. (I used them for facade work, it was very stable despite 400kg on the scaffolding)

Best regards, Jawen
If you buy a used haki scaffold, for example, you have no idea what kind of planks come with it, sometimes they're painted red everywhere :)

I completely agree that you need to be careful with the planks, good note.
 
Doldskada said:
Nails worked better than screws because nails bend and screws just crack without warning.
If you've used DynaPlus screws, it takes a lot to switch back to nails for constructions. I see no advantage with nails at all in this case.
 
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trapper
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The Swedish forest industries have a construction description for a wooden work platform on their website http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/ if you look under the link "utvändigt", "bockar".
 
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Freddy Åkesson
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janwide
pbengtsson said:
If you've used DynaPlus screws, it would take a lot to go back to nails for constructions. I don't see any advantage with nails in this case.
I've also read that nails "warn" before they break, while screws just go "ploink" and then you're hanging in the air in a second.

However, it feels like screws are infinitely more convenient to work with, and if you're using 6 x100 Dynaplus and 3 - 4 screws at each attachment point, the risk of the screws breaking or coming loose should be negligible.

You also have to use common sense and not have three people standing on the same plank or loading a bunch of heavy stuff on the scaffolding.

Or am I wrong???

If you're going to be wrong sometime, you certainly don't want it confirmed when you hear a "ploink" three meters up ;)
 
If you also attach a longitudinal 2 by 2 at about 60 cm with three screws under each crossbeam where the scaffolding plank is supposed to lie, it becomes very durable.

/Barajag
 
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UffePlåtis
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