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42 replies
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42 replies
Questions about EPS concrete
I see smaller cracks (see picture above). I wonder why industry regulations say one thing that doesn't need to be followed.. I can't make sense of this 😂Rejäl said:Do you see large cracks in it or major damage from mechanical stress now that they have been working in the bathroom for several weeks?
If you don't, then there is absolutely nothing to worry about as this is just light filler and not a construction in any way; the self-leveling compound is what will make your floor durable.
Another thing is that the carpenter has grouted. But he has done a poor job grouting. Here, for instance, he has completely forgotten to grout. Why grout if you're going to be sloppy? What difference does the grout make?Rejäl said:Do you see large cracks in it or significant damage from mechanical stress now that they have been working in the bathroom for several weeks?
If you don't see anything like that, then there's absolutely no danger as this is just light filling and not a construction in any way—it's the self-leveling underlayment that will make your floor durable.
So they can stand by the product..M Mjärn said:
But in your case, it's just filling, so I can't see anything happening after the self-leveling compound..
Caulking in the floor angle is done so that the self-leveling compound doesn't seep into cavities, is there a hole under that plasterboard wall?M Mjärn said:
Renovator
· Värmland
· 1 175 posts
Those that last more than 3-6 days are that they can crack, but then comes the reinforcement and in your case 4-6 cm fiber-reinforced putty on top of this, they form a self-supporting structure, cast eps on Friday and today 15 cm, have pump truck next Tuesday
So you're casting EPS in two rounds? Do you have something between the layers or is it just shooting on?R Rickard.lj said:
I'm wondering how to do it, I probably won't escape casting in two rounds and I don't know what to do with the screeding rails, I want to build them in wood but don't want to keep them afterwards.
No, just once.J jhall said:So you cast EPS in two batches? Do you have anything between the layers or is it just straightforward?
I'm considering how one should do it, I probably can't avoid casting in two batches and I'm not sure how to handle the leveling paths, I want to build them out of wood, but I don't want to keep them afterwards.
Renovator
· Värmland
· 1 175 posts
Yes, it's absolutely no problem .. but the top layer should be at least 5J jhall said:
Renovator
· Värmland
· 1 175 posts
I was just about to write that you can't get EPS smooth, but then Rickard.lj posted a picture where it looked really smooth 🙂
Is it from a pump truck? It looked quite wet.
Anyway, you can screw battens to the wall and hook out a board to get the right height and drag with it. The floor is going to be leveled, so a difference of 1cm is nothing to worry about, in my opinion.
Or if you have a laser, you can set it up and take a leveling board that you attach something to so you see the height, a piece of batten that you screw from the underside and then mark on it.
Is it from a pump truck? It looked quite wet.
Anyway, you can screw battens to the wall and hook out a board to get the right height and drag with it. The floor is going to be leveled, so a difference of 1cm is nothing to worry about, in my opinion.
Or if you have a laser, you can set it up and take a leveling board that you attach something to so you see the height, a piece of batten that you screw from the underside and then mark on it.
Renovator
· Värmland
· 1 175 posts
Yes, here I have had a nordic 5:5 pump, a bit easier when 9 pallets need to go out. No, not wet, but there is a bit of a difference in the mixing in the pump and hand mixing the sack.
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