How to proceed with opening for garage door? Insulated wooden frame on concrete block
Hello,
I am planning a garage construction. I have a poured concrete slab with one layer of lecablock on top. Lecablock, however, makes it tricky to make it look nice around door and gate openings. See image 1 for a schematic picture of how the wall is constructed. There are two things I'm considering on how to solve in the best way.
1) The metal tracks for the garage door will be screwed into the wall stud but will sit outside the drywall. How would you handle the hole that will be under the wall panels? The lowest attachment hole for the metal track is about 5cm below the sill.
- Screw a piece of wood that has the same thickness as the drywall + OSB boards together and also fasten the metal track to it?
- Drill a hole so the lowest screw for the metal track can be fastened to the sill, then seal the hole with construction sealant?
2) In and around the gate opening, I will place jambs and moldings, and on the outside of the wall, behind the jamb/moldings, there will be a strange space since the wood facade doesn't go all the way below the lecablocks.
- Cut small pieces of panel to place between the molding and the lecablock?
- Apply plenty of oil + paint on both the back and front of the jamb and moldings and just hope they last as long as possible?
I am planning a garage construction. I have a poured concrete slab with one layer of lecablock on top. Lecablock, however, makes it tricky to make it look nice around door and gate openings. See image 1 for a schematic picture of how the wall is constructed. There are two things I'm considering on how to solve in the best way.
1) The metal tracks for the garage door will be screwed into the wall stud but will sit outside the drywall. How would you handle the hole that will be under the wall panels? The lowest attachment hole for the metal track is about 5cm below the sill.
- Screw a piece of wood that has the same thickness as the drywall + OSB boards together and also fasten the metal track to it?
- Drill a hole so the lowest screw for the metal track can be fastened to the sill, then seal the hole with construction sealant?
2) In and around the gate opening, I will place jambs and moldings, and on the outside of the wall, behind the jamb/moldings, there will be a strange space since the wood facade doesn't go all the way below the lecablocks.
- Cut small pieces of panel to place between the molding and the lecablock?
- Apply plenty of oil + paint on both the back and front of the jamb and moldings and just hope they last as long as possible?
Hello, and welcome...
I have seen all sorts of variations on the problems you describe.
Is the metal track stable enough that it sits okay even without fastening in the lowest hole?
Externally, you have to consider how much snow/moisture will put pressure at the bottom. If you bring all the wood down to floor level, it tends to absorb moisture quickly. At the same time, it has to be adequately tight for, among other things, mice.
I have seen all sorts of variations on the problems you describe.
Is the metal track stable enough that it sits okay even without fastening in the lowest hole?
Externally, you have to consider how much snow/moisture will put pressure at the bottom. If you bring all the wood down to floor level, it tends to absorb moisture quickly. At the same time, it has to be adequately tight for, among other things, mice.
I'm leaning towards placing a post on the outside, so hopefully, it will look somewhat okay.GoForIt said:
However, I am still unsure about the hole on the inside of the wall (under gypsum & OSB boards). If there is only a trim board, there will be a gap of a few mm between the inner floor and the interior board, and there will only be a 22mm interior board protecting against the cold from outside right there. Since it's an insulated garage, you don't want to let in too much cold.
Of all the variations you've seen, is there any you would recommend more/less?