1. OSB behind plasterboard is better than single plasterboard when you need to hang things up.
2. Single plasterboard is still strong enough to hang a TV on even without OSB.
3. There is no problem using 6 mm renovation plasterboard on OSB.
So if I don't misunderstand you, we are in total agreement.
Could it be that you have slightly edited your postđ. If not, I must have read it incorrectly yesterday. Now we are at least "in total agreement". But perhaps we have been all alongđ.
Tearing down fiberboard is really "not that" fun.. đ
Hmm, if I take a piece and fit it in the same spot, there will obviously be a raised area against the stud to the right nearest the closets. Previously, there was a piece of hardboard in the seam (there's a picture from another wall that didn't have a raised stud).
Only plasterboard and then filler, tape, etc., won't be enough over the stud. I think there's a risk of it cracking as well as unnecessary fiddling and hassle.
Alternatively, take OSB, fill the gap on the stud, or hardboard, then renovation plasterboard over everything.
It would have been nice with just 13mm plasterboard, possibly recess some OSB between the studs, but then I either have to adjust the material according to the stud or cut down the stud.
I'm leaning towards cutting down the stud to the same height as the rest of the framework. It would be the quickest and easiest. What does the forum say đ?
Construction plywood that is filled and with a layer of renovation wallpaper on it.
This way, you keep the thickness down and get a much stronger solution than single gypsum.
Construction plywood that is filled and with a layer of renovation wallpaper on.
Then you keep the thickness down and get a much stronger solution than single plasterboard.
Hmm, maybe, I'm just convincing myself that you will see a difference between renovation wallpaper and plasterboard in the room?
Perhaps you can rout out the plywood on the backside for the stud?
Hmm, maybe, I'm just convincing myself that you will see a difference between renovation wallpaper and plaster in the room?
You might be able to route out the plywood on the backside for the stud?
Spackel and renoveringstapeten were to get a surface as smooth as plaster. Then you paint or wallpaper it according to preference. I've done it myself on a couple of surfaces where thickness was critical.
A lot of fine-tuning seems to complicate things. Why can't you just remove the last rule and put it back in line with the others?
Regarding the thickness of the boards, it seems to just be a matter of millimeters. Is there really no way to just move the wardrobes out a few millimeters so that it aligns the way you want? Then you won't have to bother with recessing boards.
A lot of tweaking that seems to complicate things. Why can't you just remove the last rule and align it with the others?
Regarding the thickness of the boards, it seems to be just millimeters we're talking about. Is there really no way to just move the wardrobes out a few millimeters so they align the way you want them? Then you wouldn't have to recess the boards.
The reasons are many, I'm meticulous, I overanalyze, I'm doing things for the first time.
The main reason actually has to do with the door handle to the wardrobe on the other side. It is now against the frame and is meant to go alongside the door frame. If we move the wardrobes out more, the door handle will go into the door.
Spackle and renovation wallpaper were to achieve as smooth a surface as plasterboard.
Then you can paint or wallpaper it according to preference.
I've done it myself on a couple of surfaces where thickness was critical.
Mjo we have renovation wallpaper over the tretex in other rooms. Quite allergic to it but plywood is harder, though.
A lot of fine-tuning seems to complicate things. Why can't you just remove the last rule and blend it in with the others? Regarding the thickness of the panels, it only seems to be a matter of millimeters. Isn't there really a way to just move the wardrobes out a few millimeters so that it aligns the way you want it to? Then you wouldn't have to recess the panels.
Yes, either remove the rule or cut it down to the same level. If it hadn't been there, I would have just used 13mm gypsum everywhere. Then it would be like before, but with a better and nicer surface.
Just place blocks of studs that are not as deep on the inside of the studs and attach OSB to them. Then put the plasterboard on top of everything. That way it only builds 13mm.
Hmm, maybe, I'm just convincing myself that you will see the difference between renovation wallpaper and drywall in the room?
Maybe you can rout out the back of the plywood for the stud?
Yes, you're overanalyzing!
You won't be able to see the difference between 6mm or 13mm drywall. You also don't mess with routing out a plywood sheet. You just let the plywood go up to the stud, not over it. On the side of the protruding stud, you screw a 45x45 stud or similar, so it is level with the other studs. There, you screw the edge of the plywood sheet. Then you shim with hardboard on the right stud so it levels with the plywood sheet. Then you put renovation drywall over everything.
Yeah, we have renovation wallpaper over the Tretex in other rooms. Quite allergic to it, but plywood is admittedly harder.
Construction plywood is really durable, but often a bit "rulig" and has knots.
After a layer of filler, the renovation wallpaper solves that. Otherwise, these wallpapers are not something I use either.
Let me paraphrase GW and coin the three keywords of the house builder:
* Accept the situation.
* Don't complicate things.
* Don't care about what others might think.
So true and as Sickan usually says
I have a plan đ
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