Hello!
I have a concrete slab on the ground and then joists, with a 20-25 cm gap between the floor and the slab. The baseboards are currently mounted with a distance of about 5 mm for ventilation, I assume. I plan to tear up the existing floors on half of the area to lay tiles with water-based underfloor heating.
Initially, I was thinking of using joists like Nivell polystyrene, chipboard, and gypsum.
Could I instead place polystyrene directly on the existing slab and the heating pipes directly on the insulation, followed by a new layer of concrete?
This would encase the heating pipes for the other radiators and the upper floor in the concrete.
Significantly less cost and work.
Mats S
I have a concrete slab on the ground and then joists, with a 20-25 cm gap between the floor and the slab. The baseboards are currently mounted with a distance of about 5 mm for ventilation, I assume. I plan to tear up the existing floors on half of the area to lay tiles with water-based underfloor heating.
Initially, I was thinking of using joists like Nivell polystyrene, chipboard, and gypsum.
Could I instead place polystyrene directly on the existing slab and the heating pipes directly on the insulation, followed by a new layer of concrete?
This would encase the heating pipes for the other radiators and the upper floor in the concrete.
Significantly less cost and work.
Mats S
Yes, you can absolutely do that!
Make sure you also have new pipes for the radiators.
Tip: Make holes in the Styrofoam and attach pipe holders to the leveling tracks in the concrete, the Styrofoam will probably rise here and there, so it becomes worthless to place "koblajor" for the pipes on it. But maybe you're using laser?
Make sure you also have new pipes for the radiators.
Tip: Make holes in the Styrofoam and attach pipe holders to the leveling tracks in the concrete, the Styrofoam will probably rise here and there, so it becomes worthless to place "koblajor" for the pipes on it. But maybe you're using laser?
EPSCement. Here you have construction descriptions:
http://www.fagerdalaepssystem.se/fa...duktfakta-och-konstruktionsbeskrivningar.aspx
If there is a lot to raise, the cost per m2 will naturally be higher, and then it is possible to cut costs with EPS blocks, regular foam insulation, at the bottom.
http://www.fagerdalaepssystem.se/fa...duktfakta-och-konstruktionsbeskrivningar.aspx
If there is a lot to raise, the cost per m2 will naturally be higher, and then it is possible to cut costs with EPS blocks, regular foam insulation, at the bottom.
Thanks for the answers!
EPS concrete seemed interesting, leaning towards it being the solution
Stefan, is it possible to lay foam plastic at the bottom to reduce the amount of EPS concrete?
I seem to read that it shouldn't be laid on foam plastic in the link you attached.
mats s
EPS concrete seemed interesting, leaning towards it being the solution
Stefan, is it possible to lay foam plastic at the bottom to reduce the amount of EPS concrete?
I seem to read that it shouldn't be laid on foam plastic in the link you attached.
mats s
Those who manufacture the EPSCement (I have worked for them myself but not anymore) only have their own material as fill material in construction descriptions. But I know that flooring contractors who are familiar with the material sometimes used to cast in pure EPS blocks to gain some cheap volume for higher castings, and there were no problems. The top 5 cm (under leveling compound/floor heating) should not, however, be diluted with anything.
EPS cement only has half the insulation value. 
I think it should only be used if there's a strong reason against using polystyrene/EPS blocks, like lots of pipes, culverts, beams. Or if the slab is poorly cast and then only enough so that the shed stands somewhat flat.
Additionally, you'll have two casting steps with EPS-c, first that and then over concrete/self-leveling compound. That means two trips with the truck—expensive!
Or if you're going to mix all that EPS-c yourself, then you (your spouse) will be driven crazy by all the loose beads all over the house afterward.
The downside with polystyrene + concrete is just the drying/shrinkage time before you can lay tiles.
There, EPS-c + self-leveling compound has an advantage. You can just (almost) move on to the next step but it becomes more expensive and provides worse insulation.
I think it should only be used if there's a strong reason against using polystyrene/EPS blocks, like lots of pipes, culverts, beams. Or if the slab is poorly cast and then only enough so that the shed stands somewhat flat.
Additionally, you'll have two casting steps with EPS-c, first that and then over concrete/self-leveling compound. That means two trips with the truck—expensive!
Or if you're going to mix all that EPS-c yourself, then you (your spouse) will be driven crazy by all the loose beads all over the house afterward.
The downside with polystyrene + concrete is just the drying/shrinkage time before you can lay tiles.
There, EPS-c + self-leveling compound has an advantage. You can just (almost) move on to the next step but it becomes more expensive and provides worse insulation.
Pieces of EPS foam are also mentioned in EPS cement construction descriptions as "sparkroppar"Stefan Tall said:
OK, it is now also an "official" construction solution. It also improves the overall insulation of the construction.jeppeknaster said:
I agree that often where this material is cast, you see a scattering of EPS pellets, but it can be avoided if you handle it neatly. When we had moisture damage in the old apartment, the insurance company's builders didn't leave a single EPS grain behind despite casting pallet loads. When I cast a few bags outside the cottage, I also managed to keep it all inside the bucket even though I only had 65 L to mix in, but I was really precise with the mixer.