About to start plastering walls and ceilings and haven't decided whether to use gypsum or sand filler, or maybe a combination of both? For larger gaps (over 5mm), gypsum filler seems preferable, but is it also better for jointing gypsum boards in any way?
Since I'm going to do the work myself, we can skip quick (shortcuts) methods such as latex joints and fiber strips . q(;^
p.
So if you choose paper strips for jointing, is there any advantage in using gypsum filler at least for the first plastering round when embedding the strip? Initially, I was planning to use Nordsjö spackel medium for all tasks.
Since I'm going to do the work myself, we can skip quick (shortcuts) methods such as latex joints and fiber strips . q(;^
p. So if you choose paper strips for jointing, is there any advantage in using gypsum filler at least for the first plastering round when embedding the strip? Initially, I was planning to use Nordsjö spackel medium for all tasks.
Good luck not using latexfog. How are you going to do the corners then?
I quote Norgips recommendations.5.2 racing said:
"Before jointing, external corners should be reinforced with corner profiles. The reinforcement is installed during the panel installation. At connections to floors, doors, etc., finishing strips are often used, which are also installed during the panel installation. All internal corners are covered with tapes during the jointing process."
What is three times more expensive? Gypsum mortar? 200 bucks for a 25kg bag. If I have large gaps or big irregularities, I start with gypsum mortar mostly because it's cheaper. Then you do the finishing with medium-sand filler.tobbe72 said:
Now, I don't know which gypsum plaster you usually buy, but I had ardex 828 in mind, about 150:- for 5kg, but of course, it becomes cheaper the larger quantity you buy, provided that it's needed then, of course.:S.nimhed said:
Oh wow. In my ears, that's the dumbest thing I've heard.pebj_ said:
It's guaranteed to crack at the corners, but if they recommend it, one can only hope they know what they're doing.
Hooking on to the previous (5.2 racing) - those were really stupid recommendations...
I don't think I've ever been involved in stripping internal corners.
More troublesome with gypsum filler, so use Nordsjö M and a slightly dampened paper tape.
I've done it this way everywhere I've spackled on new gypsum and haven't had any problems at all.
If you cut and screw the gypsum correctly, you shouldn't have any gaps over 5mm - otherwise, you can talk about "quick-fix methods"...
I don't think I've ever been involved in stripping internal corners.
More troublesome with gypsum filler, so use Nordsjö M and a slightly dampened paper tape.
I've done it this way everywhere I've spackled on new gypsum and haven't had any problems at all.
If you cut and screw the gypsum correctly, you shouldn't have any gaps over 5mm - otherwise, you can talk about "quick-fix methods"...
The gypsum manufacturers Norgips, knaufdanogips, and gyproc all recommend exactly the same thing - use joint tape even in inner corners. I have personally seen acrylic sealant come loose in inner corners, resulting in ugly cracks on either side of the joint (professional craftsmen have been working on the job).5.2 racing said:
However, knaufdanogips mentions that small cracks can occur even with paper tape but that "If small cracks can be accepted, they will be very precise, if joint compound is used with joint tape against connecting building parts."
My opinion: If and when these small cracks occur, only then can you use a bit of acrylic sealant, but you do NOT use sealant for strength in the joining of the gypsum boards themselves (regardless of joint type).