Hello!
We currently have a wall with wooden studs and single drywall, where we plan to place a stove in front. The plan is to lay tiles under the stove and let them go up the wall behind it.
The stove can be placed 10cm from a non-fireproof wall or 5cm from a fireproof wall.
We want it 5cm from the wall but also want to build on the wall as little as possible. Is it possible to just add one more drywall sheet (thus having double drywall + tiles) and have it approved as a fireproof wall?
I looked at minerit board at Beijer but you can't tile on that....
We currently have a wall with wooden studs and single drywall, where we plan to place a stove in front. The plan is to lay tiles under the stove and let them go up the wall behind it.
The stove can be placed 10cm from a non-fireproof wall or 5cm from a fireproof wall.
We want it 5cm from the wall but also want to build on the wall as little as possible. Is it possible to just add one more drywall sheet (thus having double drywall + tiles) and have it approved as a fireproof wall?
I looked at minerit board at Beijer but you can't tile on that....
A wall with simple gypsum is also a firewall; it all depends on how many minutes it must withstand before it starts to ignite.
simple gypsum 15 min
double gypsum 30 min
2 x simple (on each side) 30 min
2 x double 60 min
Fire gypsum (15 mm) single 30 min
Fire gypsum double 60 min
simple gypsum 15 min
double gypsum 30 min
2 x simple (on each side) 30 min
2 x double 60 min
Fire gypsum (15 mm) single 30 min
Fire gypsum double 60 min
It does not work with plaster!
It is also not a firewall/fire compartment boundary that is to be constructed.
The gypsum in plasterboard is degraded by continuous heat. This is what Gyproc says about it:
However, the construction itself depends on the outer temperature of the stove. More information about this is available on their website.
Otherwise, check with other manufacturers, maybe STO has a suitable board for example?
It is also not a firewall/fire compartment boundary that is to be constructed.
The gypsum in plasterboard is degraded by continuous heat. This is what Gyproc says about it:
Minerit should work if the board is primed before tiling.
However, the construction itself depends on the outer temperature of the stove. More information about this is available on their website.
Otherwise, check with other manufacturers, maybe STO has a suitable board for example?
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To supplement the issue regarding fire, EI 30, for example, is not a time until ignition. The number describes the time it takes for the non-exposed side of the wall to exceed a certain temperature when subjected to a predetermined heat load on the opposite side.
Gypsum, as Krawk noted, is not good at handling long-term heat as it "dries out." It is precisely the phenomenon that it can hold crystalline water that makes it superb at resisting rapid heating, such as in a fire.
Gypsum, as Krawk noted, is not good at handling long-term heat as it "dries out." It is precisely the phenomenon that it can hold crystalline water that makes it superb at resisting rapid heating, such as in a fire.
krawk > if you read the test you've pasted, it states there has to be continuous dry heat over 50 C. No one has their stove running 24/7 365 days a year. It also states that it absorbs moisture if exposed to heat for shorter periods. So gypsum works.
If there are doubts, use an aquapanel/hydropanel which is a cement-based board that can be tiled on.
If there are doubts, use an aquapanel/hydropanel which is a cement-based board that can be tiled on.
The board deteriorates a little each time it dries out / rehydrates. The plaster cracks from the movements. In the end, there is only something resembling crumbly dried clay held together by the cardboard left.
So no, it doesn't work.
The maximum allowed temperature for aquapanel is 70 °C
So no, it doesn't work.
The maximum allowed temperature for aquapanel is 70 °C
Minerit VT can be tiled on. And if there are currently tiles closest to the stove, they will absorb most of the heat unless there is a fire 24/7.
Regarding auqapanel, I didn't know that, but hyropanel should be according to the information I've received.
According to, for example, Norgips, it says the following:
Gypsum and Fire
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook,New Century Schlbk][FONT=New Century Schoolbook,New Century Schlbk]Upon heating, a chemical transformation occurs in the gypsum of the board. The chemically bound crystallized water, which constitutes 21% of the weight, is released, and the gypsum calcines. While this process is ongoing, the temperature remains at 100°C. In other words, the gypsum board draws energy from the fire. It thereby lowers the temperature and hinders the fire's development. As the water evaporates, cracks form in the board. The fireboard's specific structure and strong reinforcement keep it intact even a while after all the water has evaporated. Therefore, the fireboard remains in place and protects longer than regular gypsum boards.
It also states that after 2 hours, it's 1000 degrees and on the other side 100. That is when all the water has evaporated.
I would use a fire gypsum if it is not possible to obtain hydropanel.
And still, it says in your text krawk "In shorter periods, the board is not affected as it reabsorbs moisture from the air"
[/FONT][/FONT]
According to, for example, Norgips, it says the following:
Gypsum and Fire
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook,New Century Schlbk][FONT=New Century Schoolbook,New Century Schlbk]Upon heating, a chemical transformation occurs in the gypsum of the board. The chemically bound crystallized water, which constitutes 21% of the weight, is released, and the gypsum calcines. While this process is ongoing, the temperature remains at 100°C. In other words, the gypsum board draws energy from the fire. It thereby lowers the temperature and hinders the fire's development. As the water evaporates, cracks form in the board. The fireboard's specific structure and strong reinforcement keep it intact even a while after all the water has evaporated. Therefore, the fireboard remains in place and protects longer than regular gypsum boards.
It also states that after 2 hours, it's 1000 degrees and on the other side 100. That is when all the water has evaporated.
I would use a fire gypsum if it is not possible to obtain hydropanel.
And still, it says in your text krawk "In shorter periods, the board is not affected as it reabsorbs moisture from the air"
[/FONT][/FONT]
You do not seem to understand the difference between a single fire load and continuous operational load. They are absolutely not the same, and materials that can handle one are not automatically suitable for the other, and vice versa.
If we should bold another sentence in your quote:
"As the water evaporates, cracks appear in the board."
If we should bold another sentence in your quote:
"As the water evaporates, cracks appear in the board."
Yes, I understand, but if gyrproc states that it reabsorbs moisture after you stop using the stove, then there are no issues. We're talking about a long period of high and prolonged heat for the water to evaporate.
The problem is that the plaster does not return to its original state after drying out. The plaster can recover, but not fully. It gets worse and worse each time.
It's like toasting a slice of bread and then leaving it out to become soft. If you toast it again, it won't be quite the same... (Yes, other processes occur in the bread when exposed to heat. But the analogy is valid.)
It's like toasting a slice of bread and then leaving it out to become soft. If you toast it again, it won't be quite the same... (Yes, other processes occur in the bread when exposed to heat. But the analogy is valid.)
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· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
I think in practice it will be difficult to build an EI60 wall without building more than the 50 mm you gain from creating a 'fire wall'. The minimum measurement for an EI60 is usually 70 mm.ows said:
But, what are your actual conditions, is it a stove with an insulated outer casing and maintains an outer temperature of <80 degrees?
See for example http://www.umesotning.se/?expand=1&pageID=9&subpageID=42
Regarding gypsum, it's just not viable as a direct close surface, Fredrik.engdahl. You won't find a single chimney sweep who approves gypsum as an underlay. My chimney sweep didn't even approve Minerit, and since we had a compromise in another area, I didn't argue about it and built up an EI-60 wall. :O
ok, I give up, though I must say that I'm not completely convinced.
Many use Minerit at distances against existing walls.
I am good friends with the CEO of Södertörns Brandskyddstjänst in Tumba. His explanation was too long to be written here. He knows and performs all solutions for fire protection - it's his job to know everything about fire protection!
I am well aware that I fall within the risk area for company advertising, but you should not blindly trust what you read on the forum when you risk burning your house down!!! You should not ask such a question in a forum at all; you should turn to a specialist in the field!
I am well aware that I fall within the risk area for company advertising, but you should not blindly trust what you read on the forum when you risk burning your house down!!! You should not ask such a question in a forum at all; you should turn to a specialist in the field!