Hello
I have a question about adding insulation to the inside of exterior walls.
I have a 1930s house with plaster + thick standing tongue and groove planks + Tretex.
So not much insulation.
I've been wondering if there are any alternatives to traditional additional insulation with studs and fiberglass insulation.
It would be nice if there was a gypsum board with EPS foam glued to the back that could just be screwed on. But I've never seen anything like that.
So I'm considering another similar solution that I would like your opinions on.
What if you use gypsum adhesive and glue hard foam boards like EPS that are 20-30mm on the interior walls? And when it's dry, you glue and screw regular or renovation gypsum onto the foam. The gypsum adhesive would make the sheet materials like a sandwich construction and adhere firmly to the substrate. Of course, you'd need to use screws long enough to reach the plank wall. The foam would also act as a vapor barrier. I'm just planning to route some plastic pipes for new electrical wiring into the Tretex board first.
At least it should provide a construction that doesn't add much thickness and is completely without thermal bridges, and could be really quick and relatively cheap...I think.
What do you think, is it completely crazy??? :blushing:
I have a question about adding insulation to the inside of exterior walls.
I have a 1930s house with plaster + thick standing tongue and groove planks + Tretex.
So not much insulation.
I've been wondering if there are any alternatives to traditional additional insulation with studs and fiberglass insulation.
It would be nice if there was a gypsum board with EPS foam glued to the back that could just be screwed on. But I've never seen anything like that.
So I'm considering another similar solution that I would like your opinions on.
What if you use gypsum adhesive and glue hard foam boards like EPS that are 20-30mm on the interior walls? And when it's dry, you glue and screw regular or renovation gypsum onto the foam. The gypsum adhesive would make the sheet materials like a sandwich construction and adhere firmly to the substrate. Of course, you'd need to use screws long enough to reach the plank wall. The foam would also act as a vapor barrier. I'm just planning to route some plastic pipes for new electrical wiring into the Tretex board first.
At least it should provide a construction that doesn't add much thickness and is completely without thermal bridges, and could be really quick and relatively cheap...I think.
What do you think, is it completely crazy??? :blushing:
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I don't have the same conditions as you since I have bricks and siporex, but I've been working on the upstairs since we moved in, where I've attached foam insulation via chipboard on one wall. (100mm foam insulation, then 22mm floorboard, then gypsum board).
The other gable has 100mm foam insulation, 22mm batten, 45 stud, and in between 70mm insulation, whatever it's called.
Screwing through the whole package at once without having to mark, drill, plug, and then hit the right spot with a 200mm screw sounds way too simple
The other gable has 100mm foam insulation, 22mm batten, 45 stud, and in between 70mm insulation, whatever it's called.
Screwing through the whole package at once without having to mark, drill, plug, and then hit the right spot with a 200mm screw sounds way too simple
Cell foam is usually not used internally due to its fire properties; however, wood chips and particle boards are still used, so that is a standpoint. If you want to avoid thermal bridges, there are always metal studs.
Foam plastic versus siporex sounded best in my ears when I listened to myself
I've noticed it's actually difficult to find information about this particular building method.
It's as if everyone builds sheds out of wood in this country
Of course, you shouldn't insulate so much that you get frost damage in the bricks, but where is the limit?
Should the interior wall be cold like this?
Brick, siporex, tretex, and not even all walls have tretex.
I think we can stop speculating about the fire properties because if it's gotten past the plasterboard and chipboard and then into the foam plastic, you're already in a bad spot.
But sure, there are outlets and such that are closer to the foam plastic.
It can be interesting if you only have walls in the house, but if you have it furnished, the furniture will likely burn up first.
I've noticed it's actually difficult to find information about this particular building method.
It's as if everyone builds sheds out of wood in this country
Of course, you shouldn't insulate so much that you get frost damage in the bricks, but where is the limit?
Should the interior wall be cold like this?
Brick, siporex, tretex, and not even all walls have tretex.
I think we can stop speculating about the fire properties because if it's gotten past the plasterboard and chipboard and then into the foam plastic, you're already in a bad spot.
But sure, there are outlets and such that are closer to the foam plastic.
It can be interesting if you only have walls in the house, but if you have it furnished, the furniture will likely burn up first.
Metal studs are an obvious alternative to wooden studs, but it's still much more work with more steps than my idea with just gypsum, foam plastic, and glue. I also can't see what would be better if the intention is the smallest possible addition (45mm studs, I would think). With EPS foam plastic, I'm considering using 20 or 30 mm, and possibly just using renovation gypsum at 6mm. I have read some data sheets from one of the foam plastic manufacturers that EPS foam plastic should insulate much better than fiberglass. If the argument is that I won't be able to use gypsum screw anchors, that's something I don't like anyway. A solid wooden wall is available to screw into behind the tretex board.Apprentice said:
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So there is... :wow: exactly what I had been thinking about! d^_^b The difference is probably that they have a special frame in their construction, which is probably needed if you have 55mm insulation or if you lack wood to screw the board into. But they also have it with 30mm insulation. I will try to find some price information. I can imagine that it hasn't gained much traction because there might be more waste when it's pre-assembled!? The EPS boards come in different sizes and have beveled edges that allow for a bit more "puzzling" than drywall, which usually results in a lot of waste.arne said:
Found some info: http://www.stenull.paroc.se/produktdat/pdf_down/PAROC%20XEW%20200_WB.indd.pdf http://www.stenull.paroc.se/produktdat/pdf_down/Arb3048.pdf
But if, as in my case, you want to use 30 mm EPS and have a plank wall to screw into behind the tretex board, then it should work without frames. Especially if I spread comb adhesive with Gypsum board adhesive behind the joints, which would reduce the risk of movement in the joints. Another problem is that I can't find any drywall screws longer than 57 mm, because it should be about 53 mm to the plank wall and I would need screws at least 67 mm long.