Building Materials and Construction Technology
hempularen: There are a few different options for filling larger holes. I bought "gypsum filler" I believe it was called, a product from Casco, which I purchased at K-rauta. It worked very well. However, I found that you should mix in a little less water than what was stated on the package. It was a bit too "runny". It's the right type of product for your cases 1 and 3. I know there are several other types
Daniel11: Hello! I have the dimensions for a glulam beam for a heart wall and I wonder if someone can convert them to a steel beam. Load-bearing beam: 115mm*495mm 4.6 m long Deflection 7-8 mm Post: 115mm*495mm 2.3 m long The house's width is 8 m and from one direction, the heart wall is at 2.5 m Grateful for answers /Daniel
gullegrizen: [citat] The maximum acceptable deflection is L/300, that is 14 mm in this case. (4200/300=14 mm)
andreas0930: I will not install underfloor heating because the groundwork cannot be done correctly. Now it was very difficult to get hold of Isodrän boards, so I wonder what alternatives there are? Can you use regular construction plastic as a capillary break and take regular foam? Or am I thinking wrong? Is it unwise to put plastic underneath? What I liked about Isodrän was that the whole slab could
nedde: Thanks for the tips. My first thought is to replace the boards with OSB, lay cable at the same time, and finish with drywall on top. As mentioned, it vibrates after the trains so I’m thinking of finishing with paint fleece to hopefully avoid cracks. Is it risky to use plastic to reduce drafts? I suspect the floor is insulated with shavings. I'll check this in the coming days. Thanks for the
vimsan: Recognize the phenomenon. Probably salt efflorescence in our basement as well. I seem to remember reading somewhere here on the forum that you can scrape off all the white and everything that's loose and then fill the surface with something like housefix. Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
kimmo_thn: Today I finished tearing down the bathroom ceiling.. so now the fun begins:) But as you can see in the picture there are joists with cc60 between the floors. But the other "planks" that the drywall ceiling was attached to look like regular planks.. I'm going to install those S-ceiling tiles. These are quite heavy! Do I need to replace these planks with something stronger? Like 45x70mm that I
Mansion of Westminster: I think you're considering it correctly. Fill it with something, and if you wallpaper over it, it matters less what you filled it with. I assume it doesn't move more than the rest of the wall, and the wallpaper should handle any movements that occur.
largab: The important thing is to have nothing organic in direct contact with the outer wall. If you then install panels at a distance, make sure that air can pass behind from the bottom to the top edge, i.e., any spacer list should be vertical so that air can "flow" behind. If, as you wrote, you instead install boards with a 3 mm gap, it will provide sufficient ventilation even if the battens are
anaitis: [citat] This turned out completely wrong! I was thinking of a completely different system.
isolde: Build a mold that is about 40 cm longer than the door opening and as wide as the lecan without plaster. Buy two 20kg bags of concrete, mix with water, and fill the mold. At the bottom, you can place two reinforcement bars. Let the concrete cure for 24-48 hours, remove the mold, and lift the concrete beam into place over the door opening. Naturally, you place mortar under each end.
Mats: you should also place a drainage somewhere in the middle of the roof. The edges can be cold and frozen, and in the middle, it is warm and nice in the spring
Plura: It is indeed smart to fill all the cavities in the steps and pillars with profiles. The steps should be completely covered with oak so you don't see that there is steel underneath, to make them look the same as the other steps sitting in two vang. Veneer is a bit too thin; I want to be able to sand the staircase down at some point. Lighting will probably come from fixtures in the wall. But LED
miry: [citat] but then the house is almost ready when it arrives and you don't build a stick-built house in that time since it is almost a stick-built house as it arrives in small parts that are pre-made, like having drywall and studs that are pre-cut so it probably shouldn't be compared to a prefab house and then there is a huge difference
Bonae: Hmm, sounds like a clever idea, at least in theory. I will take it into consideration in my ponderings as an alternative to new drywall with plaster!
Maveric77: They are similar to the ones we had in the housing association I lived in before. During the pipe replacement, we had to pay extra for the asbestos removal from the pipe bends. I don't know if there was asbestos in them, but I would guess so since they (Skanska) came out and looked several times before. So I THINK there is a risk of asbestos in your insulation, but only in the bends! However (and
shadowfire: Mmkay, thanks for your responses! It definitely seems like I was unlucky or encountered a loader who was having a bad day.
andersmc: [citat] I have drawn, designed, and built myself. Naturally, I have drawings in various forms, for my own sake. But there are no "official" construction drawings.
J.B.: Go to a lumber company with service, and they will deliver to you. Mine has delivered very strange fittings for me when I rebuilt the logan.
trojlee: Looked really nice, I'm going to see it live:). Thanks so much for the help..:) / M
HenrikHuslöse: If we start from TS construction: What happens if you use a real diffusion-open roofing membrane instead of the oil board and PU insulation between the rafters? The insulation is rain-resistant, and the roofing membrane can be rolled out quickly. If it rains while rolling it out, it lets through the moisture that has gotten underneath. And 170 mm PU insulation is almost equivalent to 300 mm of
Renoveringsdags: I have learned not to stick my fingers in sockets so NO I won't do it myself :P I'll call both a plumber and an electrician today :) Thank you thank you
nedde: Now I have broken it up and checked. It was an old expansion vessel that was there. Thanks for the responses! There will be an attic hatch there now instead as I didn't have one before. :)
Ola78: Normally when installing spaced paneling in the ceiling, you usually use 28*70, so go with that between your rafters.
WaldenWoods: I think your proposal to chamfer MDF and fill with plastic padding on a metal corner sounds like a good solution. Especially if you're going to cover the steps with oak - then you don't have to be so meticulous with filling and sanding there.
anaitis: Works fine, but requires the use of beams/columns/strong joists. An engineer can solve this for you easily. Of course, it costs a little more!
Ola78: It is probably a better solution to keep a truss in the middle. The force from the bypassing is then distributed to more trusses if you do it that way, and then maybe the remaining trusses can handle the load without reinforcement, but I'm not entirely sure about that. However, you shouldn't need to reinforce them as much later on in your first example, at least.
raveper: You seem to want to escape authorities etc. Here's something for you. Buy Sealand http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sealand
trekko: Yes, I found the tips useful, thanks once again! Plus points to you =)