Hello!
I recently took down a few square meters of drywall in the hallway. It was mounted directly on an old plaster wall that unfortunately looks so bad that the only option is to tear down the plaster as well (turn-of-the-century house with lime plaster). The plaster is on a very sturdy tongue and groove wall (about 200 x 50 mm) with a "plaster mesh" of reed rods in between. A simple and cheap solution here might be to take down the plaster and put new drywall directly on the boards... But I would much rather keep the plaster wall!
When I searched the forum about plastering on wood, it generally involved the facade and required asphalt felt, air gaps, etc. Considering that around the turn of the century they managed to plaster directly on the tongue and groove (now I'm talking about my interior walls), wouldn't it be possible to do the same thing again, but with modern plaster mesh and mortar?.. Or?
One thought that occurred to me regarding the practicality of this procedure is that it will be difficult to set wooden strips to level the plaster. This is how I have managed to get a plaster wall to be straight and even - but considering that the tongue and groove itself is not entirely even, the wooden strips won't be either - which in turn should lead to an uneven plaster wall as a result. Am I thinking wrong? Or is it simply that you have to plaster "freehand"?
I recently took down a few square meters of drywall in the hallway. It was mounted directly on an old plaster wall that unfortunately looks so bad that the only option is to tear down the plaster as well (turn-of-the-century house with lime plaster). The plaster is on a very sturdy tongue and groove wall (about 200 x 50 mm) with a "plaster mesh" of reed rods in between. A simple and cheap solution here might be to take down the plaster and put new drywall directly on the boards... But I would much rather keep the plaster wall!
When I searched the forum about plastering on wood, it generally involved the facade and required asphalt felt, air gaps, etc. Considering that around the turn of the century they managed to plaster directly on the tongue and groove (now I'm talking about my interior walls), wouldn't it be possible to do the same thing again, but with modern plaster mesh and mortar?.. Or?
One thought that occurred to me regarding the practicality of this procedure is that it will be difficult to set wooden strips to level the plaster. This is how I have managed to get a plaster wall to be straight and even - but considering that the tongue and groove itself is not entirely even, the wooden strips won't be either - which in turn should lead to an uneven plaster wall as a result. Am I thinking wrong? Or is it simply that you have to plaster "freehand"?
Apply plaster and then finish with gypsum plaster? Easier to work with and you don't make as much of a mess.
Gypsum plaster on drywall ey... It might look good! I'm not familiar with that variant, but can you plaster with an extremely thin layer then? If you still have to apply a few centimeters of thick plaster, it becomes quite cumbersome.
Hello.
You can work with gypsum plaster in layers from 0.5 to 5 cm, so you can choose between repairing the existing plaster wall or applying new gypsum.
You can apply the gypsum plaster with a wide spatula and do it in several rounds. Once you've plastered an entire wall, you can go over the whole wall with a masonry brush dipped in water. You get a nice texture. Finish by painting in any color. Personally, I used silicate paint in three rounds as I believe the silicate binder strengthens the material a bit.
Good luck!!
You can work with gypsum plaster in layers from 0.5 to 5 cm, so you can choose between repairing the existing plaster wall or applying new gypsum.
You can apply the gypsum plaster with a wide spatula and do it in several rounds. Once you've plastered an entire wall, you can go over the whole wall with a masonry brush dipped in water. You get a nice texture. Finish by painting in any color. Personally, I used silicate paint in three rounds as I believe the silicate binder strengthens the material a bit.
Good luck!!
OK, thanks!
It feels good to gather some ideas on solutions that one can manage on one's own. Since the lowered ceiling needs to go, there might be quite a few square meters that need fixing, and if I'm forced to hire craftsmen to restore the walls, it could become expensive... Then I must lament how one can be completely bewildered over WHY on earth in the 70s-80s they renovated old beautiful apartments by slapping gypsum boards directly onto a poor plaster wall and also lowered the ceiling half a meter with battens and even more gypsum. The wall that is replastered is only replastered up to the gypsum ceiling. Couldn't they have made just a little more effort and plastered all the way up to the ceiling??
It feels good to gather some ideas on solutions that one can manage on one's own. Since the lowered ceiling needs to go, there might be quite a few square meters that need fixing, and if I'm forced to hire craftsmen to restore the walls, it could become expensive... Then I must lament how one can be completely bewildered over WHY on earth in the 70s-80s they renovated old beautiful apartments by slapping gypsum boards directly onto a poor plaster wall and also lowered the ceiling half a meter with battens and even more gypsum. The wall that is replastered is only replastered up to the gypsum ceiling. Couldn't they have made just a little more effort and plastered all the way up to the ceiling??
Why polish something that wouldn't be seen anyway? Always a matter of cost...
Consider how you would have done it if you were the property owner...
Consider how you would have done it if you were the property owner...
Don't have any major opinions on materials, etc., but I've been thinking about how I might get even basement walls in the future, and this becomes a bit of the same problem. My thought is that you should be able to place studs between the floor and ceiling vertically next to the wall and then use a board that is notched at the corners and drag it along the studs to see where you're at.