Building Materials and Construction Technology
lacky: [citat] But thanks for the inspiration- it turned out great!
Knight: I don't think it's a good idea to leave the current railing as it can become climb-friendly. You should at least check to ensure you meet the requirements. Min 90cm https://www.boverket.se/sv/PBL-kunskapsbanken/regler-om-byggande/boverkets-byggregler/sakerhet-vid-anvandning/racken-och-ledstanger/
Avemo: You get to thoroughly read about the function of your screwdriver. Screwdrivers with impact function are often basically small dredgers. They "strike" tangentially and make it easy to drive screws without damaging the slot. It is completely different from an impact drill. If the wall you are going to drill into is made of concrete and you have a rotary hammer, my advice is to use the rotary
cpalm: [citat] Buy burton pipes, cheap, easily accessible, and the right dimension. Then the question is how to integrate them into the wooden construction in a sensible way. You easily end up thinking maybe you should build a burton stand instead and build the scaffolding deck from scrap wood.
G.L.: Higher than the highest level in the sink. There must be no possibility for water to flow backwards into the dishwasher.
frityreldarn: I have just had L support in concrete installed, and on one side towards the neighbor, I mounted a retaining wall with older split stone, see image. On the L supports, there is a top plank in concrete. 4cm thick, 24cm wide. I would like to have the same plank on the split stone as well. I was thinking of removing a layer of split stone, sanding down the surface on the underside of the one being
Ruztan: It is a double garage and the other door is identical to this one so I strongly doubt that anything has been replaced since -86. It feels a bit more secure after your answers. I will open it up more at the top today and see how it looks above the visible leca row. But it does feel at least like there is something other than the frame supporting the upper floor.
Matti_75: As you can see, the brace is only intended to handle tensile loads. You can replace it with a wire if you like. My tip is to install a support under the truss, like a standing 45x195 to 2 trusses on each side of the one you want to remove the brace from.
r3jonwah85: I have purchased a couple of modules built on a self-supporting steel frame (have received 2 out of 4 modules), but eventually want to make them blend in a bit more by adding a gable roof on top. I have been considering the best way to solve this without placing a load-bearing wall in the middle of the modules, and preferably at the lowest possible cost. The ideas revolve around conventional
yonna: Thank you for a very good explanation. It concerns the expansion of a soon-to-be 100-year-old allotment cottage with a good wooden frame that has held up excellently. There is no insulation today. The allotment cottages must not be used during the winter season (however, thieves and vagrants 😉). Other cottages in the area that have been insulated over the years have sustained damage, and it is
ola_augustsson: I have a sea stone patio under a roof that I want to lay a wooden deck on. The ceiling height is limited, so I have read in some other threads that it works with pressure-treated 70*70 posts in the foundation. Since the stone paving is not 100% even, I thought about checking the experience of plastic shims or if it should be solved in another way?
TobiasK233: Hello We moved into a house with a wood deck that is stained black, and now we're tired of it looking dull every spring and getting so damn hot to walk on during the peak of summer. We tried sanding but the valleys made it patchy because the sander couldn't reach the valleys, it's 60m2 so you don't want to sand it by hand. We're thinking of laying new decking now... I found some pictures of how
SirKnasen: Yes, it is not impossible that it is just a simple windbreak, maybe even likely. I will definitely need to investigate that. I have measured the thickness of the insulation, and it is in some places only 20cm. In the thickest places around 30cm. On the skimpy side, but I don't think it has been abnormally warm in the attic this winter. Just a few degrees above the outside temperature. However,
Fyrtiofemgrader: [citat] When I search for images online, blue concrete generally seems to be filled with smaller cavities, like a sponge. In one of the pictures I attached (the one with the green box to the right), the structure seems more to consist of small beads.
Lennart12: Hello, Assuming you fill outside the wall with Leca Lättklinker (weight 4 kN/m³), you can either lay masonry reinforcement every other course or reinforcement steel every third course. The Lecawall is built all the way out to the walls and up to the floor slab. Weber has design guidelines for Leca Block where it states, among other things, how to reinforce/build depending on the wall geometry
jonaserik: Either paint directly on the concrete or plaster and paint with silicate paint. Do not enclose the wall with anything; it needs to be able to breathe. Moisture will always be absorbed into the concrete. Probably only asphalt coating on the outside, which usually wears off a bit over the years.
Anonymiserad 769025: [citat] Thank you so much for your reassurance. The house is from 2012. I've seen via real estate ads for identical houses (even though building details may of course have changed) that people have everything from a full-length mirror to a fire blanket hung on the same wall where I have nailed, but of course, it can be attached in other ways.
Bjoen: [citat] That sounds good. Thank you for responding.
BertHakan: [citat] Thank you! These could be solutions to consider.
Tommy V1: Is there anyone or anyone who knows someone who knows where to get this panel? The previous owner of my house had started putting up this panel that I like a lot. Unfortunately, there's no way to ask the person themselves. Just need a few strips, then done. Grateful for answers!
lärjungen: I have a bathroom where the only option to place the door is close to the chimney. There's no room for repositioning. The chimney is in use, but the flue where the door will be is not used. Does the rule that it should be 100mm away from combustible material still apply then? The flues in use are on the other side of the chimney and thus about 30 cm from where the frame will be. I can't find
Testarn: I would have just bought regular coarse concrete - those ready-made bags that have "everything" and you just add water - and mixed it in a masonry bucket (trolley). The hole looks quite small, so that should be the easiest way.
hempularen: It should usually be stated in the product description for such products how much they can handle in single gypsum/double, etc. I believe that most types of drywall anchors can handle at least 15 kg. But check the description for the specific type of drywall anchor you are considering. Then there is always a risk. The declared capacity probably applies if the anchor is set in a drywall panel far
Du och 19till: A telephone pole holds a couple of swings. Now it's getting harder to find.
fredrik.johansson: To calculate the angles in a triangle, you need to know the lengths of at least two of the sides. By forming a right triangle with the slanted part as the hypotenuse and the distance between the verticals as one of the legs, you can calculate the angles using basic trigonometry.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, it's good but small pieces of wood or plywood strips are enough depending on what you have.
cpalm: Skip the house fix, it's basically just an extremely expensive cement mortar. I think regular render mortar C is the right choice in this context, but if you absolutely necessarily want a mortar with good adhesion that's easy to "spread," then gypsum mortar is a better choice than house fix.