Building Materials and Construction Technology
Possetossen: [citat] Haha, I have a lot to learn, need to get a crowbar. It should be fine to lift the floor. Yes, it would be great to be able to fix it on my own. I'll post pictures when it's done, probably not until mid-June when my vacation starts and I have some free time. :)
BigR: The cardboard is dipped in a tar/bitumen mixture. Should be sorted as combustible, but the people at the recycling often want it in cardboard.
Virablåtira: Hello BirgitS Thanks for the tip! Yes, it seems to be very similar to the ones I remember, and they have locks too. Then as you say, since they are used in preschools, that should be enough :-) Regards Hasse
Bennca: No leakage. Lucky! Thank you for your response!
slothy: Turned out well! Sometimes you have to say "fudge it, what's the worst that can happen" and try a little.
Hep: Stop both of you (3?). Yes, someone may have been a bit short in their responses. Someone might have felt targeted or questioned. Let it go now. The advice about dehumidifiers may have come both unsolicited and unwanted, but if the work is to be done indoors in a room with normal ventilation, it's good advice that TS got for free.
rolf johansson: I want to feel the wind stairs a little before purchase. But it seems difficult with "showroom" or building supplies store that has them on display.. any tips?? Looked at Dolle Clickfix 76 thermo looks good, but seems a bit tricky to open.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] You need to insulate the floor structure externally!
Ville_Vessla: Built a playhouse in 2010 on lecablock, just one block per beam so completely ventilated underneath, didn't even remove the grass, kit from Beijers with untreated tongue and groove of weak caliber as the floor, placed a plastic mat as a floor inside on top of the tongue and groove, was quite worried the first 2 years, it deteriorated significantly according to me but probably didn't really, I was
sultanen1: I have a 1930s basement where plaster has fallen (and I have chipped) down the bottom 60-70 cm along about a 5-meter-long exterior wall. Behind the plaster, it's sandy/loose. Would it be possible to apply a skim coat (perhaps max 3 cm) with HusFix? I've read that it can also be sanded. I don't care if there are cheaper products, I want it to be as good/easy to fix as possible. I've read that you
Erik Salhammar: [citat] No! You cut away the asphalt where you want the staircase! That way the first stone gets some support. It is important to cut precisely right!
mexitegel: No. You cast drinking water towers in concrete. Cast a solid foundation so your greenhouse doesn't blow away.
AndersS: You should choose 28mm as it generally maintains better quality than the standard 22mm panel boards. A building supply store should be able to order 28mm if they lack it and in the length you need. Regarding paint, it is fine to use what is available in the store and follow the instructions; personally, I stick to a known brand and have used the same product for the last 35 years, where it has
Fällebyggarn: Looks good! I went with my intuition and attempted it without primer. I only have a small panel on the ceiling above the sauna and it's mostly about giving it a different color, so an even plaster layer isn't the main concern. Here is a picture where I haven't plastered the sides yet. I was quite generous with moisture for a few days and the plaster seems to have set well... we'll see how it
Det_finns_inte_skrot: [citat] I'll try calling someone tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.
maskeradeproggaren: [citat] Also interested if someone has done this with good results!
ludvig_svensk: Now I'm taking over this thread. I've been living for some years in an old cottage that we are renovating. It's been quite cold on the floors during winters, and the other day we came to the realization of how little insulation we actually have. When we took down the wallpaper, it immediately became very cold. Then I found a rotten part of the wall that I needed to address, so I had to make a
Jompax: Some feedback on how it went, for the sake of it and as a thank you for the help Rickard. I laminated, rented a dust trap/air cleaner, and created negative pressure using an exhaust. Then I manually tore up the asphalt/roofing felt with a crowbar and bark spade. Exhausting as hell, but it took just a few hours. Now there are small remnants left, but nothing thick. I think I should be able to lay
Klonkers: I am going to install window sections flush with the edge of a concrete slab and have never done it before :) I understand that one should have some kind of flashing under the actual track. One idea was to put fascia boards around the entire slab to tidy up the edge and help make it a bit more watertight. The image below - do you think it would work well? The flashing I am considering using is:
Feedex: [citat] Hi After the walls dried properly, we used Hey’DI FIBERPUTS directly on the walls that needed rebuilding after our water damage. Floors sanded and painted.
vix79: [citat] Hello I am now reading the thread and wondering what you did with your blåbetong walls?
z_bumbi: No acoustic panel I've dealt with has been particularly resistant to anything. It's MDF with a thin layer of veneer. Mounting on the wall depends on how the brackets look and how the elevator is constructed. Concrete propagates sound throughout the wall, and then it depends on how much the elevator makes noise and/or if the sound is acceptable. The hotel gyms I've visited haven't really been
Forrelund: How did the project go? I have the same concerns so I'm very interested in how you approached it. Best regards, Johan
Nilsanni: Hey slang, I'm the one mixing up the concepts. I'm thinking about the gray flexible pipe below. Great, thanks!! [bild]
Kentaclinta78: [citat] Plexiglass sounds very interesting, and I understand what you mean with your construction. It's essentially the same method I described above, but you mention the type of wood.
andfar: [citat] Thanks for the previous answer. Should there be some type of air gap between leca and the brick?
Claes Sörmland: Yes, it works, but it is not very popular today. With an NTR-A-rated post, it should last for about 50 years or so. The rot will appear right where the wood emerges from the concrete.