Building Materials and Construction Technology
Genomklok: This is middle school math. Untouched long side 10.4 blocks. That is, if you have a joint width of 2.7 cm, it fits evenly. On the short sides, it becomes 6 blocks, which also fits evenly if you finish before the corner and have joints that are 4 cm. Maybe a bit large? Broken long side gives 3.7 blocks on each side, so you likely won’t avoid having to cut there. One round is thus 10+6+6+4+4=30,
undrar om: Interesting answers, thanks! There was previously a sort of kitchen island there that separated the dining area from the kitchen, ending where the post now is. We would probably have preferred an open floor plan but might have to keep it as it is for extra support (but move the post so it supports both beams). However, I'm also considering placing a beam like the one (but stronger) that runs over
tergo: it also works well with drywall screws for wooden studs
Nilsanni: [citat] No, this is exactly what I'm thinking too, that I don't want to trap any moisture or anything like that. But I do want to keep the little animals out since they seem to find ways in today. What should I be checking for from the outside? As far as I know, there is no sealant on the outside, only paneling.
rsa: [citat] Thanks for the input @klaskarlsson! The roof truss is designed by a structural engineer, and together with the frame of glulam beams, that part should probably become quite stiff. However, I'm starting to think a bit like you, to still put a "small" diagonal brace at the back between the glulam beam and the post on each short side. It will obscure the sliding door slightly, but maybe
O: [citat] Not difficult at all. It's also fun to test to get the right amount of power.
Himmelsfararen: [citat] Unfortunately and now rebuilt.. this was what I found..
Möla76: I am going to install a new handrail in the stairs. I have bought two posts that I will mount on the bottom stringer of the stairs. I will then attach the handrail to the posts. But now to my question. How do I mount the posts on the stringer in the best-looking way? Which screws/bolts should I use? The posts are 90x90 mm and the stringer is 30 mm wide. The posts should be placed where the blue
Leif i Skåne: [citat] Yes, that's what I mean. You attach two VKR pipes, about 120x50, bolted to the wall with an angled brace that the balcony hangs from. Look around for examples in older apartment buildings.
jliljeha: Exciting thread, how did it end up? Our bedroom is right next to the elevator shaft, can't hear a thing. I don't think those at the top hear much either, but there's a bit of a bang from the contactors when the elevator starts and stops, which can be heard in the stairwell. However, the building is very soundproof in general. Except if someone is using a hammer drill, then it's impossible to tell
neo11: If you turn the lightweight concrete screw half a turn too much, you lose all tensile strength. If you don't, it's good. If you use a plug and screw, it doesn't hurt to apply some form of construction adhesive into the hole beforehand. If it's something important to screw.
DennisCA: Yes, the color has become a bit dirty but it still holds. The sandbox became a flower box when the boys grew older, so it's still there.
Matti_75: Drill at an angle to get more concrete to anchor in.
EvaOg: [citat] Yes, with a little extra strength I managed to get it up. Thanks
z_bumbi: Place a board on top of the threaded rods and draw on it. If the board is straight and horizontal (make sure it is), you will see variations in height and can write it directly on the board.
pjkw: [citat] 45x95 is probably still enough I would guess, you can also use different ones depending on how much that particular joist needs to be raised. If it's very high at just one spot, you could consider planing down that specific joist locally to avoid raising everything by 45mm. I would probably rather try to straighten the old joists with blocking rather than shimming the new ones.
brumbjorn: The outer wall of the sunroom will not be subject to any rain or moisture load and therefore essentially needs no ventilation. I guess you shouldn't seal it completely, allowing a few millimeters of air circulation in the inner room should be more than sufficient. Sunrooms generate moisture and heat from people. If you let that air rise to the attic where it condenses, you might have moisture
Masoder: Thanks for the idea Hadn't thought about a wooden staircase but it could look nice
Huzzbutt: [citat] Unpainted beadboard is around 250 SEK per sqm including VAT. Painted/stained beadboard is around 350/400 SEK per sqm including VAT. A quick search finds Bygma with a knot-free painted option for 660 SEK per sqm including VAT. Then it comes to the purely practical regardless of the option, an order from, for example, Norrlandsträ specified by length entails picking add-ons and length
JF.: 70x70 g4-2 is not construction timber but should be sufficient to support this small porch roof, right? Or what do you think?
Lilllen: [citat] Exactly, just 4 layers of boards overlapping - joints in different places, should be both stable and quite quiet. If you want it even more stable, you might be able to glue it as well. Although, it might be a bit more difficult to build. A normal wall might also have an easier time accommodating expansions/contractions(?) Now, I've never built a wall like that, or any other wall for that
z_bumbi: Glulam for outdoor use requires smaller dimensions than regular wood and is also easier to move around. With such a long span, the dimensions become very coarse anyway.
GH88: Yes, it will probably need to be slightly thicker plasterboard and Sala out around the windows and doors.. what do you think about fastening plasterboard to the thin studs? Is it even possible?
durrhandtag: How did you finally do it? :)
Testarn: Yes, it's impossible to answer if you haven't seen how it looked before :)
Fredrik Bo: Hello, I was thinking of mounting wall brick behind the stove but I wonder if it is possible to mount on uneven and different surfaces. We have the chimney behind the stove but then the wall transitions to a wooden wall, and these are not level with each other as you can see in the pictures. What should I do? If I put drywall behind it, the wall brick will protrude quite a bit in relation to the
AndersS: [citat] You might get lucky and it doesn't crack, or some of the panel boards might crack, "if it works, it works". 😉 Wood/timber moves and that's part of its characteristic.
rehn: We have a basement with electric underfloor heating, installed by the previous owner. Embedded in the concrete floor, probably not thicker than absolutely necessary. Under this floor lies a drain which occasionally gets blocked. So far, the blocks have been cleared with the help of a high-pressure washer hose. Obviously, something is incorrectly done, as the hose cannot be fully inserted. I