Building Materials and Construction Technology
Lovensson: [citat] I made it in Blender, a general 3D modeling/rendering program. Nothing related to construction or anything like that at all 👍
kaffetorsk: Interesting thread. Feel free to post pictures of the syllbyte. :)
Knäppisarna i Knäppa: [citat] Thank you so much for your response! It sounds like an exciting, moderately risky, and easygoing approach to the whole thing! I will try to adopt it, as we are also prepared to take the risk compared to the project's "potential." For us, there is hope in the potential, while others might have demolished it. Well, things are happening anyway. Thanks for your update!
Hallb: [citat] Hi Joacimz Your dialogue here is helping me with a similar project right now :) How have the slats held up over the years? I'm also planning to use 45*45 with about 2m. It looks like there might be shorter distances between the posts than 2m in your picture, but maybe that's just an illusion. Thanks!
AG A: [citat] Sometimes the underfloor heating is shallower than that. You're right in saying that you can drill/screw very shallow. But it's important to know how deep the pipes are. My pipes were partially very shallow. I then drilled only about 5mm. Then I made the vertical studs a few millimeters too long, so the horizontal floor beam was really tightly pressed against the floor. Then I screwed
Baromfi: [citat] Hello! I really appreciate this thread and your staircase drawing now that I'm about to make a similar staircase myself. We’re also thinking of using floor soap and gluing on Bjelin's hardened floors. It's been a few years since the thread was created, and I wanted to ask how it went and if you have any tips? Do you have any pictures? Another question, I want the flooring on the steps
Anonymiserad 23608: A decoupling mat can be placed under the tiles if there is concern about movements in the structure, which I can imagine can occur with the large temperature differences in such a space.
trasigvingmutter: Took action and put it together recently. Turned out pretty okay, just need to throw on the plastic roof then :)
Testarn: Sounds like a good plan. Good luck!
Måke: [citat] Did you use regular drywall or renovation drywall?
albinivik: Hello! I have a 70s house with a chimney. I just tore out a completely burned-out old rec room stove and was thinking of saving space by partially or fully building a more modern piece into the chimney. Is there a chance to do this without risking it collapsing? The chimney probably doesn't support anything more than itself, but I'll obviously check that before we start anything.
Wheo: Then the drawing below applies. The black posts are 95*95 mm and around 180 cm long (set in concrete plinths which are 70 cm). The stays/joists (the red ones) are 45*95 mm. The plank itself is made of exterior paneling which is 22 mm thick, 180 cm long and varying widths that we alternate (70, 95, and 120 cm).
hempularen: There are several systems for attaching suspended ceilings like that. It's not an area I know, but I believe what you're looking for might be called a "suspended ceiling mount." There are some gadgets for building dropped gypsum ceilings with steel tracks at Hornbach. The system should also be usable for "your" ceiling.
hempularen: [citat] But the time for the actual cutting is negligible in such a project. This is more likely about unskilled labor that doesn't know how to plan the layout. As an amateur, I did just such a distribution, having to lay the bottom row 3 times before getting it somewhat right. But on that roof (the vacation house), we have a protruding section over the patio, so there's an "extra" verge board to
useless: [citat] Ok. What year is the one seen in post #3 installed?
perstorp..: There you go, problem solved sanded down the high peaks, took 20 minutes https://www.jemfix.se/diamantslipskiva-oe110-mm-falke/3113/9041031/ Then I spread some regular fix where needed to level it out. Just wait a day or so, then lay laminate flooring 🙂
tergo: [citat] Yes, but check how well the raw wood is nailed.
Skotti: Hello! I'm about to do something similar with my property. What kind of glue did you use to bond the foam with each other and also to the glulam beam? I'm planning to attach it to a brick/plastered facade myself. Has it continued to crack like this a few years later? Thanks in advance!
maah: [citat] That's what I think too. Since the floor will build up about 50mm (22mm particle board, 15mm self-leveling compound, 4mm adhesive, Xmm tiles), there will be no problem with a 45mm sill under the door.
Messier1994: [citat] Not an expert, but on the sauna side, I wouldn't be worried at all if you have columns under the load points and such short spans. But over the garage door, I would use a 240 I-beam, it seems like it must handle anything a house can impose on a 270 span. Someone may correct me if I'm wrong — but it feels like you should have a good margin there. I assume it's a very accessible place so
JMKL: Hello! I was about to install fresh air vents but encountered a sheet of metal about 1mm thick behind the asbestos board, does anyone know what this is? It is above a window. Thanks in advance!