Building Materials and Construction Technology
philsson87: Hello I have started renovating a laundry room at home where I removed some walls and combined three previous rooms into one. I am currently a bit stuck regarding what to do with the walls, and I've received some different advice from friends. The issue is that the surfaces are varied in both material and structure. In short - All walls are originally plastered - Where walls have been removed, I
Claes Sörmland: Clean gravel surfaces are never maintenance-free. Nature wants to reclaim them. Some alternatives: - Mechanical cleaning, if the gravel is small a hoe works well so you don't have to bend down. But it sticks so easily to the fabric... - Weed vinegar. Removes the green but not the roots. It may need to be applied once a month to keep the weeds down. Best for wearing out grass. - Pre-salt the area
Marmelad: Does anyone know what these gaps under the window sill are? They are set into the wall, it's a wooden board (masonite board?) that frames the window recess from the plaster wall, and it seems completely open to the studs, maybe even the insulation? I was considering sealing them, I'm a little concerned if there will be a smell coming from those holes in the summer, maybe the insulation gets warm
Yrrol: The garage was painted with stain even though the store recommended acrylic. Painted the acrylic, and now it’s peeling at the bottom. Lockpanel. - What we missed was that the garage lacks an air gap, and acrylic was unsuitable. The options we see are: - Leave it as is and maintain it for as long as possible with additional paint. - New panel, with oil paint. - New panel, with air gap, and
Chrillthesill: Not me who bought it but our builder. Maybe, as you say, you can't buy laminated MDF in larger sheets. However, I think IKEA has laminated MDF for larger cover panels and not chipboard. The question is what to have under the kitchen island if one desires one sheet instead of several if there is a requirement that it does not yellow over time.
Düsseldorff: [citat] Okay. Black glue under the bottom layer of tiles. If it's black glue, it contains asbestos, that's kind of the thing with black glue. But if you're not going to break up those tiles, then as mentioned, it doesn't matter. Leave it be, black glue is an incredibly strong adhesive as long as it's left alone.
maah: No, it's so well ventilated that there are no problems. The panel you put there should have a little gap with insect netting above.
Rolle85: Now there are only two brackets that are now drilled and hammered in. But maybe try with anchor mass?
Kungen_283746: What is your ceiling height today to the concrete?
Juneau: Hello! I want to close off a doorway in a partition wall in my (new) 60s house. I thought it was gypsum on studs, but of course it isn't; it's some fiberboard about 10 mm thick on 45 mm wooden studs, and several layers of wallpaper. Is it possible to say what type of board it is? The doorway is about 120 cm, and I'm considering building it up the same way, or alternatively putting drywall on one
dscholin: [citat] Yes, that staircase will be removed and replaced with a spiral staircase in a different location.
Stefan1972: Well, it's up to each individual to assess a risk. If I thought that way, I should be dead by now............I'm a car mechanic and have never cared about anything. I've painted countless cars with no protection at all, just blowing my nose afterwards. How much gasoline have I inhaled over the years.........exhaust fumes and burning undercoat, not to mention welding smoke..............I am quite
jonasalmberg: [citat] Of course, we will have a dialogue with the board (as well as consult a structural engineer for a statement) if we proceed - right now it's just a consideration.
Supermaggan: That's right, that's also an idea! It's difficult because you don't want it to stick out too far, but it does mean you don't risk screwing into the paintings. Thanks!
Ironside: I think this will be okay, but unfortunately, they didn't think I should dab on silicate paint; I would actually need to sand off more, so it will have to be water-based paint again, and I will probably have to repaint in 10 years or so. Next time, if I need to scrape more than the paint, I will aim to dig deeper, so it becomes easier to fill and level it with 0-3 mm plaster.
Ossian K Olsson: In the "worst" case, you can attach two 45 mm thick beams on each side of the wardrobe and secure 60 bins in them!
ajaxajax2000: [citat] Great! Thank you very much!!!
Grellsgård: Hello! I am currently re-plastering what will become a walk-in closet, and one of the walls is part of the chimney breast in the house. For simplicity's sake, I would like to put up plasterboard there so that it has the same surface finish as the rest of the closet. Now to my question, is it okay to glue a plasterboard directly onto the chimney breast, or is it better to frame with metal studs
onatakosha: [citat] Hard to say exactly but a cast floor with a basement underneath. So no crawl space/concrete slab etc. Just a typical 50s house.
nino: Or tap the handle of the spackel on the hole so it bulges in a little.
Hipp: Cycled to Verktygsboden to buy Tec7, to attach brass plates to powder-coated steel. They didn't have the brand, so I bought the Bostik equivalent to Tec7. Glued with it, but the plate came off after a few days. Took the car to another hardware store and bought Tec7. Repeated the procedure, and now after three years, the plates are still attached. In this case, the best quality was important. But
hebn: I need to replace parts of the posts of a balcony. The previous owner painted with plastic paint and neglected to keep soil and vegetation away. I plan to scrape the paint, wire brush away the rotten wood, replace timber where necessary, and repaint with linseed oil paint. There are a total of 6 posts, of which (at least) two are partially rotten just above the beam (45x195) they rest on: [bild]
songforkaren: [citat] Yes, thanks, I did something in between, put a strip at the top so the top board is in line with the plaster walls on the sides, then I'll use acrylic sealant under the trim at the top and in the gaps... Not optimal, but I just want to get this stuff up now.
skorpion_: [citat] Hi minitusen, how did this project go, how did you solve it in the end? I have similar issues with an uneven slab.
Niq: When I renovated an old house, I placed the moldings against the wall and drew a line following the edge. Then I placed a straight ruler over it so I had a straight line to cut along and attach the moldings to.
yehor: I have an old chimney where a gas boiler was previously connected. The chimney is no longer used - neither on the floor below nor above. The plan is to remove part of it so that I get a 90-degree corner in the room. The right side of the chimney I can thus keep. As far as I can see, the chimney has no other function, such as supporting the floor structure. When I read up on how to do it, it seems
blåstugan: I have a cabin built with "snickar glädje" by someone who used whatever they found :) Anyway, I have a sunroom where one of the windows (there are 5 different types of windows) is a sliding window. There is a two-track rail both above and below that is about 1cm deep and 4mm wide, and below should be a plastic/silicone strip about 5mm deep. The glass (just 4mm float glass with nothing extra)
Demmpa: The brick is just a surface layer, no load-bearing. There is said to be an air gap of 1-2 cm between the brick and the rest of the wall. The rest of the wall is likely a wooden frame structure.