Building Materials and Construction Technology
useless: Yes, that's correct. If you build an accessory building less than 8 meters from another accessory building, the facade on one of them must be fire-rated. https://www.boverket.se/sv/PBL-kunskapsbanken/regler-om-byggande/boverkets-byggregler/brandskydd/brandskydd-mellan-byggnader/
lärjungen: Very similar to the drawing (and the question) in this thread: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/varfoer-sjoenk-taket-tog-ner-innervaegg.558173/ Maybe you can get some useful information from there? Although there, the trusses might look like in the drawing, unlike in your case.
vlindmark: Cut openings in the wall panels 5x5cm or larger, at the bottom of the wall (easiest with a multi-tool) 60/100cm c/c distance, then you can mount angle brackets with screws into sylle/wall stud and then drill expanders into the concrete. The openings can then be patched up with plasterboard + filler or alternatively with a baseboard that covers.
cpalm: EPS is by far the cheapest option, yes. Depending on how one "values" the cost of the capillary-breaking substrate.
Landgren: A rat has gnawed a hole in our shower drain. What can be used for repair? Silicone or polyurethane adheres poorly. It's the upper edge of the outlet pipe.
Johan Svensson6068: Well, then I just have to rethink. What do you think about bending a galvanized steel plate with nail holes in a way that resembles a false clamp...
KakanSK: [citat] Yes, exactly! That might have been poorly described by me - but that's how the hatch is supposed to hang! Like your picture. Do you think it would work with some smaller butt hinges then? My concern is that (the OSB board that the door partly consists of) will not hold the weight of the hatch. Meaning there's a risk it might crack if I place the hinges on the edge? If I may ask - what
emblak: I now see that the colors have disappeared from the drawings, but I hope it's still clear - the door that needs to be moved is circled in gray and it should be moved to the right.
Clas2: [citat] Checked the drawings, that wall is not load-bearing, only in the middle of the house, so I removed it.
AG A: If the consistency is as it should be, and it feels normal to work with, then it's perfectly fine. That is, you'll notice immediately upon opening/use if it's okay or not.
jonaserik: [citat] You can read about the measurements here, otherwise good https://www.huntonit.se/om-huntonit/vanliga-fraagor-och-svar/
Se En: We have a split-level house and are currently furnishing the lower floor. We have now installed windows and would like to put stone tiles/slate on the house facade. The construction looks like this from the outside: 1. Plaster 2. Foam/Styrofoam insulation 3. Lecablock (now we come to the inside) 4. Air gap of about 5 cm from the lecablock 5. Stone wool 6. Plywood 7. Gypsum I can also mention that
Thomas_Blekinge: Talk to a mason about plastering the wall. Cables, etc., can be plastered in.
Larsa: [citat] Yes, then you saw off the frame and let the floor go underneath. Then you might need to trim the door at the bottom.
Mellanbarn: Glad you found a solution.👍 I missed that one of the boards should be horizontal, I thought the staircase continued after the angle. 🤥
jonaserik: [citat] I have Steni on my foundation and it is above ground, but no insulation behind. I framed with 22X75 pressure-treated wood and attached the panels to them. At the top, it's open just below the panel; at the bottom, I drilled 2 holes of 50mm about 10 cm from the ground symmetrically on all boards, before installation I glued insect mesh in copper over the holes on the backside. It
OmpaOmpaa: Hello! We are in the process of opening up the living room a bit. When a previous owner of the house in the '90s opened the wall between the bedroom and living room on the middle floor to make the living room larger, they left a post in the middle of the load-bearing wall. We now want to open it up completely by installing proper support. An engineer has calculated that there are no issues with
mexitegel: I would think that the nearest building supply store can order it for you. XL-bygg has it on their website for example: https://www.xlbygg.se/produkt/mdf-skiva-19x1220x3050/
Mackk: Hello! What kind of door did you choose? Are you happy with the result? Best regards, Mackk
Håbbe01: Probably the same routine again. Moisten wall Prime with A mortar using a kalkkvast Plaster with C mortar
Mar Treatt: Eftersom fasadrenoveringen löste vattenproblemet, är du i en bra position att åtgärda den inre skadan nu. Ideally, anything that’s hollow or loose should be removed before you re-plaster, otherwise it can detach later and you’ll have to redo it. It doesn’t mean you have to chip the entire wall—just the sections that clearly sound hollow or feel unstable. Once that’s done, you can
Rubb: Hello, When we moved in, someone had built a sauna in a closet in the basement, which we had intended to demolish from the start as it was anything but properly constructed. Now we have torn it down, and it was quite an experience, to say the least. The vent was clogged with fiberglass, wooden framing and fiberglass on the walls, followed by a vapor barrier, and finally sauna paneling. The wall
stalf: There you go. That I haven't managed to find that... A thousand thanks for the help centano and jansson!
kobbish: Yes, absolutely! Perfect space to create some storage. You can either bring in an electrician to run a cable to a lamp with a motion sensor and maybe install an outlet in case it's needed in the future. Or, a USB-C rechargeable LED lamp with a motion sensor works perfectly. Regarding ventilation, what do you have in the rest of your home? FTX? Exhaust air? Natural ventilation? As long as you’re
nybyggarn3: I have glued 100m2 of herringbone, but not according to the French principle. It's a hassle with the strips floating around. Take many breaks so the glue can take hold. It's fine to scrape away the excess and have a cup of coffee or even better, a beer. Part of the secret is that the strips should be very dry, so gaps swell back together. When laying regular herringbone, you should focus on strip
jonaserik: Panel water will run off the brick, but now it is such that water has a tendency to go around the underside. You'll see how it looks with rain impact and possibly install a window sill that goes under the panel. A sheet metal worker can bend it how you want. Keep in mind that the sill should not be too short and should have a downward angle so water can leave the sill without going around and
olofh: [citat] Nice! Then I think a plug of about 50mm will be enough. You can buy plugs and screws individually/by weight at places like Hornbach/Bauhaus.
BirgitS: At the very least, one must know what the trusses look like and their orientation in order to understand the situation with load-bearing walls.
neo11: Sounds good, you can usually paint after about a week.