Building Materials and Construction Technology
possum77: Works great. Pre-drill if possible to avoid cracks in the wood :)
Centano: Where will the ground level be and what do you envision for outside the glulam frame?
Jef: [citat] It's designed so that the robot vacuum can go underneath 😀
Nicke Nyfiken: [citat] B.S. I had two such roofs mounted from below on my previous house. One on the conservatory that was 30+ years old without leaking a drop. And one on the carport that was 10 years old, also completely leak-free. So just rethink and accept the situation...
Bengtsson86: [citat] Aha, then I'm with you. Thanks for the explanation!
Törner: Hello! We are planning to replace our current staircase to the upper floor and are looking for tips and ideas on possible solutions. The existing staircase takes up a large part of the room, which we would like to turn into a children's room, so we want to save as much floor space as possible. We have an existing concrete opening of 137 x 90 cm. It's quite narrow at the top, but the opening is
Rickard.: Draw up how you think and where the force is, but do you mean that the force is on top of the 195 and 45x70 goes out to the side, I would say that the difference is completely insignificant compared to just a 45x195.
Stefan1972: There are thousands of such fasteners for furniture that are manufactured solely for the furniture maker and not taken from any standard assortment... The thread on the visible long screw looks like inch, so the furniture might not even be "Swedish"... I think the best chance is with IKEA and their spare parts assortment. Maybe you can find something there that can be used.
fribygg: What does the existing outbuilding look like, what is it made of? What is the ceiling height inside the outbuilding?
z_bumbi: I know the charger can handle being exposed, but I would like more roof. However, the construction itself is really nice.
BirgitS: [citat] It's probably not a reliable method in all houses. Where we lived before, the only difference between load-bearing and non-load-bearing interior walls was that the load-bearing ones had stronger studs. But both were wood stud constructions with a layer of plasterboard, so it sounded the same no matter where you knocked.
Henkan Sundberg: Hi, I want to remove the door in the attached image and create a larger opening about 40 cm wider to the left of the door. At the same time, I want to open up the opening about 20 cm towards the beam in the ceiling. My house has been extended, and the photo is taken from the extension towards the old part, and the company that did the extension has screwed the large beam in the ceiling to the old
Brewtal: [citat] Thanks for the reply. I was also considering replacing with braces. Perhaps the safest and simplest option. I know iron better than bricklaying.
Vante: I installed Plannja S18 zinc gray, walls and in the garage.
Claes Sörmland: [citat] Your question is quantitative; I guess in quantitative terms, wet room paint is much denser than, for example, matte ceiling paint. But the question is more whether ceiling paint isn’t in absolute terms dense enough to prevent damaging moisture migration. An argument for this is that regular ceiling paint is used in bathroom ceilings, significantly humid environments. All these paints
Pjosk75: Whoa whoa, there were some of those among the nails and screws I was sorting the other night. Good to know what they're meant to be used for.
Mikael fransson6: Hello, if someone checks, I can confirm that no asbestos was found in these.
Liljeros: Make sure to fully screw in the fitting with an anchor screw, and it should not be a problem.
Matti_75: 4 pcs 100mm nails per joint are what is usually required structurally
Johan Gunverth: [citat] It's because the houses shouldn't bump into each other. There's simply no more space between the houses on the crown islets. 🤓😉 I would say that in Bohuslän, there are completely normal roof overhangs. ...so your observation doesn't hold
gromit42x: I removed the spring from the short piece that mostly ends up behind the window trim. I assembled the last three boards in advance and nailed everything from the front.
Fox89: Hello! As the title states, I am looking for channel plastic, vertical ribs with a rib width of 64mm. Alternatively lower but not shorter than 32mm. Thickness minimum 16mm. As a reference, it is available in Germany, the image I linked is from this manufacturer;
BirgitS: Thanks, same to you! Not several layers of foam as it becomes a bit spongy, but you can use 3 mm thick masonite (board) and/or a few layers of lumppapp, 1 mm thick, where there are depressions.
Atmon: [citat] I have now lived in my mobile home for a year. I have insulation and heating cables around water and sewer pipes. It worked fine.
Peter_Henry: I've been working on it in a project, we placed a timber frame on a basement section where the slab/walls and joists were koljern It's sharp to work with where you need to do something for wells or penetrations 😀
Björn_Nilsson: Hello. I am planning to build a simple pizza oven with bricks and concrete slabs. To simplify the process with the baking surface, the slab I bake on needs to be 60 mm thick. Is that reasonable? Or will it just take a long time to reach 400 degrees when I fire underneath? If I make it thinner, maybe it will crack more easily... What do you think? It should of course be reinforced. But at 60 mm
cmwm: Exactly, I forgot to mention that it's in the apartment from 1936! Thanks for the reply, I'll read up on slaggtegel and possible mounting options. Might need to rethink the shelf!
JSten: It could very well be that it is only to relieve the floor joists. Someone needs to calculate it to be able to determine that. Or get hold of the truss plan and its calculations.