Building Materials and Construction Technology
oddan: Ahlsell is great to shop from sometimes if you have the opportunity, and sometimes not. Sometimes you need things quickly and don't want to wait 2-3 days for delivery from an online store. I also have a recent example where I was looking for a specific type of TP-cable (for construction) and the cheapest I found online was around 1000 SEK. It cost 300 SEK at Ahlsell and was available for purchase
F.Persson: Had these cracks and holes in the plastered wall against the door frame. It's only missing on this side. Mixed plaster c and thought I got it really nice. Before painting, when I was smoothing out something that went wrong, I noticed it was loose, so I had to peel it all off again. I only had that day to finish painting before the family came home, so I'll have to fix it afterward. Is plaster c
Ironside: Old thread, but just want to say that it looks like there might be some blåbetong in the walls if you weren't already aware of it. Of course, it doesn't have to be a problem but it's good to know.
Mats-S: Matches work in all situations for filling holes and making them usable again, also work as a base filling if you want to patch them up for good :-)
Mehdi Shama: [citat] The remediation company had, among other things, HEPA filter vacuums and air purifiers. Do I need to use the same equipment myself now? I don't understand why they couldn't remove it when they were here from the start 🙃🙃🙃🙃🙃🙃
z_bumbi: An inverted V above the hatch causes the water to run to the sides instead of down into the gap, the V is usually made of metal or wood. The water that then reaches the hatch is so minimal that it may not matter?
Tinni81: [citat] Thanks, but I think I'll stay on the floor 😀
Nygge72: [citat] There you have the solution! I have a 3m aluminum ladder, I just need to lay boards in it and use it as a frame.
JojoF: Hello or rather help! We have started casting a concrete staircase with 6 steps, 2 meters wide, 5 meters long, a landing outside the door, and steps in each direction. The staircase is unheated and has no roof. We are casting in sections. We mixed our own concrete and got the recommendation to use cement, stone flour, and gravel 4-8 to cut costs 🙈. Just from that, we should have understood
songforkaren: The final picture from above, the board against the frame, so it's that gap (it may look like more than 1 mm due to shadow but it's just barely enough to fit a fingernail in the largest gap)
Weimik: I recall using a regular circular saw outdoors when I cut mine last year. Didn't feel like it created notable dust in my lungs. I also seem to remember concluding that it doesn't matter which side ends up facing down.
Grussladd: [citat] I can confirm that this procedure worked excellently! I couldn't get a milling machine, but as I had an accessory for the hammer drill, I could use it to remove the majority of the fix, then I took the rest off with an old chisel and hammer. I then puttyed the upper part and painted it, while the lower part was left a bit uneven (except for an old box hole that was filled with plaster).
Svampe: [citat] They have been lying directly on their pallet for almost 10 years (they decrease in number as each year passes) in the middle of the lawn, but now that part of the garden has finally been fixed, so they can't stay there anymore. So my problem is not how to protect them against the weather and wind, but how to find a place for them where they are out of the way without getting damaged
Solvskaftet: Remove the nozzle and put on the cap. There may be a lump that needs to be pushed out before attaching a new nozzle next time. The nozzle is just to be discarded, not worth cleaning. 10 new ones cost 55:-
Ironside: Okay, decided to buy a new board instead, it can be fixed up a bit later.
Thomas_Blekinge: You can get "bent" wooden pieces by placing several wooden strips on top of each other in the desired shape and gluing them together. If you get 2 mm thick wooden strips and attach them around the bend, you can apply glue in between and set them up and wait. Then sand and paint.
proffsrik: Personally, I have tested Biokleen paint remover. It worked somewhat well. Still a lot of manual work to peel off plastic paint even though it sometimes came off in large sticky pieces. For me, it didn't need to be "spotless" but just diffusion-open as I later tiled over it. What becomes most labor-intensive depends on how large the rest of the wall surface is otherwise. If the "good" plaster is
luksi1: Here is a piece of C-puts that I broke off. To me, it looks exactly the same as what was on the wall.
Knotan123: [citat] If you want to sell the door, please reach out, I need a spare parts door.
major_tom: I had just assumed it would be more stable with chipboard + wood flooring, but now that I see you can go down to 30 mm for wood floors and still have 80 cm spacing, maybe I need to reconsider... Originally wanted to reuse the old thin wood floor (hence the chipboard first), but maybe it will have to be wall paneling instead...
mexitegel: Can you trust that the masonite is fixed well enough to withstand the weight of the plaster? 🤔 I myself probably wouldn't feel completely secure with it. But it's not worse than tearing down the masonite and putting up battens, right? It doesn't take that long. If so, don't forget that you need battens along the walls and that there should be battens or metal/metal profile behind the short
krambriw: Depending on the intended use area, an uninsulated cold attic is quite poor for storage - everything up there is exposed to alternating high and low temperatures and changing humidity, which actually breaks down everything organic quite quickly - varnished furniture, for example, tends to have the varnish start cracking, plastic and textile materials break down, and everything often becomes dirty
InsidersUnited: If you like stainless steel, something like this would work, just spray to your preferred color. Available in 4 inches too, 94 kronor is not much for stainless steel.👍 https://www.biltema.se/bat/dacksutrustning/batventilation/ventilgaller/rosettventil-rostfri-o-5-2000060404 [bild] The same types of vents are available on platforms like Temuuu, for under 50, but I don't shop there.
StevieGee: How did it go with this? I am in exactly the same situation..
Vante: Remove the back of the note, leave a little at the floor and ceiling, have you screwed in the spring?
Bo.Siltberg: With the wall side open, you could rout a conduit with FK so that you get a completely concealed installation. Difficulties may arise in the ceiling as the pipe outlet would need to be moved closer to the wall side. The line going downward could also be placed in a conduit to make it concealed. However, it may be tricky with the transition to the surface-mounted cable, so you need to install a
magnuznilzzon: I have a form of panel as balcony railing that I can't find at hardware stores, but maybe if I know what it's called, I can find it? There are two profiles: one like a thick T, 20 mm thick, 115 mm wide, with "the stem" 85 mm. The other is a 10 mm board, 55 mm wide. [bild]
Gunkar0502: [citat] Does anyone have experience with ground screws for a conservatory
klaskarlsson: [citat] It should be possible. It will then require a building permit (or at least a notification) because you are changing the load-bearing structure, and of course, you (or an engineer) need to calculate it so that it works. You will probably have to submit the calculations to the municipality afterward as well.