I'm holding my breath...
 
Sorry to disappoint you, but other projects came up 😂 Dad's ugly workshop, which you can close the door to, was deprioritized by the design council.

An important life lesson is that next time we buy a house, I'll start with the workshop and garage and all those things that make the rest of the work more enjoyable, but no one else cares about 😁
 
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N
Now I have just read through the entire thread, and you haven't polished anything?.
Scandal if that's the case.
 
N neo11 said:
Now I have just read through the entire thread, and you haven't polished anything?
Scandal if so.
It's not clear if you're joking or not (missing emojis)...? 🤔

If you're serious, it could be that the TS has a life. Sometimes you start a thread to inquire about possibilities before starting a project, calling it a scandal feels somewhat exaggerated. Many of us can benefit from this thread regardless of whether the TS has polished anything or not.
– Exactly what a forum is for! 😀👌
 
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Anonymiserad 405730
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N
andreascarlsson andreascarlsson said:
It is not clear if you are joking or not (missing emojis)...? 🤔

If you are serious, it could be that TS has a life. Sometimes you start a thread to inquire about possibilities before starting a project, calling it a scandal feels a bit exaggerated. There are many of us who can benefit from this thread regardless of whether TS has polished something or not.
– Exactly what a forum is for, after all! 😀👌
A few years had passed, so it was not a joke.
That was my personal opinion.
However, I can agree that my opinion was a bit exaggerated 😉.
 
N neo11 said:
Now I just read through the entire thread, and you haven't polished anything?
Scandal in that case.
No, but I agree...it's such a big scandal that you might as well come over and solve it because we can't have it like this! But rest a bit first, you have, after all, fought your way through 20 posts.
 
N
I would have liked to, but you seem to be a farmer!
So not that close.
 
So, I also find my way to this thread for a pertinent reason :). The plaster on the outdoor basement stairs is in bad shape. Probably due to high moisture exposure as it is below ground and where the roof drainage might be dripping some wastewater.

My plan is to:
  • continue to remove all loose plaster and a little more, then sand the edges of what remains with an angle grinder so it adheres better.
  • Then apply a layer with primer mortar A aka M10.
  • After that, build it up with masonry mortar B.
  • finally either use a type of plaster mortar C, or skip it and paint with base color on the masonry. This staircase is not really a priority.
What do you think about that? Does it sound reasonable? The house base is okay. The house is from 1951, but the basement stairs were built in the '70s when the basement garage was converted into, well, a basement.

I've tried to understand how this works, and this is about as far as I've gotten. Basically, masonry-/base-/plaster-mortar is fundamentally the same thing but slightly different as they serve different purposes. The primer mortar provides better adhesion for subsequent layers, primarily ensuring the substrate absorbs evenly (otherwise, for example, joints might show through later). Class A/B/C indicates the strength grade where A is the strongest and C is the weakest. You go from the strongest on the inside to the weakest on the outside. Strong isn't universally better, as it also runs a higher risk of cracking.

Outdoor basement staircase with damaged plaster walls and metal railings, showing signs of wear and water damage typical of a 1970s construction. Damaged outdoor basement staircase wall with crumbling plaster revealing underlying concrete. Signs of moisture damage and chipped painted surface. Close-up of damaged plaster on an outdoor basement staircase, showing a rough and uneven surface with visible cracks and missing sections. Outdoor basement steps with dark painted walls showing signs of wear, leaf debris, and a window beside a blue door, needing renovation due to moisture damage.
 
Perhaps these products would be suitable? Both are low-alkaline, which if I understand correctly is better universally (if needed, it's a requirement. If not needed, it's not a disadvantage at least). It seems that my basement stairs are made of aerated concrete blocks but I don't have the manufacturer's data sheet from the 70s so I don't know if low-alkaline is _required_...

Primer A.

Plaster/mortar B.
 
What does the forum think about the approach and the products I've linked, if I may ask the oracle before making a big mistake?
 
N
I had applied weber 132, basecoat b.
Pre-watered and primed with loose 132.
Applied at least 2 times with 132, and finished with weber 133 thinly.
For a fine appearance.
 
N neo11 said:
I would have used weber 132, outstockningsbruk b.
Pre-wetted and primed with thin 132.
Applied at least twice with 132, and finished with weber 133 thin.
For a fine appearance.
They seem a bit harder for me to get hold of. Is it because the ones I linked are wrong/unsuitable, or because weber's are better or you're more familiar with them? Bauhaus is always easy, available everywhere... Thanks for the input!
 
N
Both and, Weber is the brand I almost exclusively use. I have used Combimix, but personally, I think Weber is better. However, just go with Combimix if that's what you can get hold of. https://www.bauhaus.se/mur-putsbruk-b-20kg-combimix It's the only 3mm B mortar for your purpose they have, it's actually a masonry mortar but should work fine. https://www.bauhaus.se/putsbruk-b-combimix-20kg And 1mm mortar for the final application. If you're not used to applying mortar, you can spread it with an orange coarse felt board. https://www.bauhaus.se/filtbrada-tebo-grovporig-140x280mm
 
Asschysst, thanks a thousand! I'll get back with the results later, probably in a couple of weeks at least. Really appreciate it!
 
N
👍Don't forget to pre-water before the first application.
 
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