Building Materials and Construction Technology
Hammare&Spik: [citat] Thanks for the tips! I'll try today, Cool with the tower :)
Matti_75: If it is SKB you have cast, it is true that you should not sand when it is soft, but you should use an ABS sander the next day. In your case, you should sand with a diamond grinder if you don't want to use filler.
EmilÖrn: Similar situation due to wall demolition and I have repaired large damages like this in a 1930s house with the same material it once was - lime mortar. Using the same mortar is probably not a bad idea in old houses, I think. It's messy but cheap, and after a little practice, it's quite possible to apply the mortar (it should be "thrown on"!). Scrape off with a board, etc. (read up on how to do
öringen: Will two 25x70mm boards laid on top of each other be as stable as one 50x70mm plank is the simple question, right?
Nylagat: Hi! I'm curious about how it all turned out? I'm sitting with a prefabricated house from '62 and am interested in raising the roof and building an additional floor.
Husfrömmar: Thanks for the response. It's the smell that intruded that triggered the sense of unease. I thought there was a bit of a lack of information about the health aspect. I'm still considering painting all the edges in hopes of getting rid of the smell. [citat]
Björn Danielsson: As an ambitious amateur, I plaster 1-2 square meters per hour. However, faster with rough plastering.
Huddingebo: I'm going to lay down 110 drainage with fabric inside. Even though the ground is bone-dry and mostly consists of gravel and sand. Is it mostly platon that's usually used? Or are there alternatives?
fb35523: Unfortunately, I don't understand what the question is about. Are you planning to have double gypsum and in addition to that a 27 mm grid panel, or do you mean that you will use the grid panel as a framework to attach the gypsum to? A box for double gypsum is often around 50 mm deep, so it needs up to 25 mm space behind the gypsum boards, which means it fits if you have a 27 mm grid panel as a
Boebs: Hi! I was going to fix cracks in the ceiling and found the concrete under a layer. Now I've scraped away all the paint and fell in love with it, so now I would like to keep it, sand it nicely, and maybe apply some lacquer. I think it would look really nice! Does anyone have any tips on what I should/can do? Thankful for any responses!
myrstack: If you're just going to fix the corner, plaster with light concrete pieces is probably the easiest way forward. I think you'll have to do it in two rounds, though. One round where you fill in some and fill out larger holes with light concrete pieces, and then a round where you actually plaster up the corner again. If in the first round you get far enough to put a corner strip for the second
Tagg: Hello I have a wall in my basement made from some type of skalblock. I now wish to make an opening in it to install a wine cooler. The opening should be about 1m high and about 0.7m wide. So I need to somehow support the wall, remove the blocks in the opening, and install a beam to take the load. I'm eager to do this myself and would like to hear if anyone can give me a good description of how to
ola_augustsson: Thank you very much Centano, I will try that. I found that Cramo also rents out dust traps.
sandnabba: Hello! Due to a mental slip and a hasty rescheduling, we ended up with an extra floor drain in our slab (garage/workshop). Instead of having a washbasin and washing machine there, it will now be a workbench and "rough office" with space for a soldering station, electronics, a mini-workshop, and similar. The extra floor drain was not really a problem (which is why we left it when we moved the
Jonas Haglund: Is there anyone who knows which foam plastic is like Isola comfort sheet 40mm? I am looking for 100mm. Construction: 1. Membrane (Isola) to eliminate clicking sounds 2. Isola Platon Blue sheet 3. Comfort sheet or Xps foam plastic 100mm 4. Underfloor heating foil Laminate flooring Thankful for answers
Ormriauga: Hello everyone, I am in the process of removing wallpaper in the basement area, and since there is blown plaster in several places, I would need some help figuring out what to use to plaster the walls? The house is an owner-built house from the 1940s and the walls have the original paint under three layers of wallpaper, and it's worth mentioning that no one has done anything to the walls since it
Annerk66: We are going to install a stove next to the chimney in our house. It is a Contura i8 insert that will be custom-built. The installation and integration will be managed by eldabutiken. We would like everything covered with soapstone tiles or some other stone as a surface layer, with a similar appearance to tulikivi stoves. Does anyone have suggestions for stone slabs, and experiences/tips from
tergo: fill the holes with husfix and drill new ones higher up
JSten: [citat] Great! I saw that Hornbach sells a roll of 25m for 450 SEK, so I might bike there and get one this afternoon. How do the professionals usually do it when they install this metal strip at the ridge? Cut the entire length, bend it, and then temporarily fasten it with countersunk screws (so that the plasterboard lies evenly against the metal strips/lath)?
TechChad: Then I THINK it's moisture that has entered because of that. I have experienced the same thing, though it was between the floors and we dried it out without making a hole (tore everything down).
Onsalakorven: Hi, I'm raising this question again, but with a twist! If you want to try a ribbed ceiling in a bathroom, how do you go about it? Any type of veneer is likely out, so it should probably be solid wood. I'm considering installing ribs in our bathroom, which is about 6 sqm, so it's not a large ceiling. It would be nice to embed lighting between the ribs... Can you screw-glue the ribs onto something
lassebrun: Don't complicate it. 1. Attach it with 4 screws 2. Do chin-ups until you drop 3. Do 10 more 4. Drink an extra beer at 21:59 to honor the prohibition 5. Sleep well and don't think any more about the bearing capacity of the beam.
FrippeFlyer: My experience with other building constructions in the house is that it's nothing more than flimsy studs. I'm thinking of plywood and 6mm plasterboard... Is it too flimsy?
justusandersson: It is an amateurishly made drawing. I completely agree with @witten. The construction won't hold, neither the roof nor the new intermediate floor. There are no vapor barriers, and the windproofing is misplaced. Dangerous in its neatness.
anders07: Moisten the wall with a spray bottle, apply plaster with a 10mm comb, and press firmly. It sticks like a rock! If you mean there is still a doorway, build a framework in the doorway that you attach to the lightweight concrete, and then screw the board into the studs. You might as well use OSB and plasterboard. The MDF board will give a different painted surface and also moves more than
Claes Sörmland: [citat] Replace the sparse panel with 28 mm tongue and groove, and it will be even easier.
northernlight65: [citat] I can agree with you about attaching it to the house structure. I assume it is standard just because it's easy (laziness). One of my considerations is (was) that I "cannot" dig down pillars due to drainage pipes, but adjustable deck supports on paving stones will probably work just fine.
Themattias80: There will not be waterproofing everywhere, only in the shower area. May only tile up to halfway up the wall. Okay, tile adhesive works. Thanks If I want to fill in with some filler, is there a decent one in a tube that doesn't need mixing and hassle?
maah: I am in full swing with the planning of an extension on the house, which can be read about here https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/tillbyggnad-35m-hur-svart-kan-det-va.395747/ Now I would like some feedback on my construction plan to ensure I'm not thinking completely wrong! The house has already been extended once on piers, so I will continue with that. This is how I plan to make the floor