Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jansson69: [citat] A picture of the opening does wonders for the right advice!
Krisar: [citat] Did anything happen with the wall? I'm thinking of doing the same thing and also wish for some inspiration😁
jhall: I used the ones with polyethylene underneath, felt smoother to mount against concrete. I don't recall any price difference, or at least not a significant one.
Nissegandhi: I didn't think you would redo the insulation, but one should preferably choose mineral wool for soundproofing since it has a higher density than glass wool.
Nissegandhi: If you choose a more modern style as dust protection.
Svante Svenson: It's butyl, the thing about butyl is that it doesn't cure, so no it won't cure.
Cuppo91: How did you do in the end?
Suhagg: I used this and it was good stuff. https://www.amazon.se/gp/product/B099KCCL7F?ref=em_1p_0_ti&ref_=pe_36213951_617488091&th=1
mvs: Yes, this is in Croatia. Completely different dimensions and materials there. It is the structural engineer who requested OSB 22mm x 2, so one must hope that it's correct. What they are a bit behind on in Croatia is ventilation, soundproofing, and insulation, so I'm careful to double-check and explain how it's done in other countries. They have no issues with it and actually seem to appreciate
JoDu80: [citat] Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out! Do you need to do more preparation than just removing all loose concrete beforehand? And can you apply a layer of plaster on the expanding concrete to achieve a nicer surface inside?
1basun: [citat] But this must be a world record! 😮
ampe: [citat] Sanded the entire floor down to bare concrete. Primer, self-leveling compound Weber Industri. Then primer again, epoxy, PU sealing. Also took the opportunity to break up the floor drain and replace the cast iron floor drain with an approved floor drain.
EK1: [citat] I see that this thread is old, but we are now in exactly the same situation as you. Wondering what the product was in the end? If you remember 😉
Miss Snickare: Hello, and thanks for the reply. The gravel was taken from the area, probably already paid for by the association. The wheel loader is also standing on the site, as the entrepreneur is often hired by the association (Samfälligheten in other words), and the work is often done by younger guys from the school.
cpalm: [citat] Good question, regarding the boards themselves you could build with them underwater if you want, but that doesn't mean an unventilated gap is a suitable construction in a larger perspective.
Granngubben: [citat] Thanks! It's now almost 18 years since the photos were taken. The ventilation through the upturn and open baseboards is well explained here: https://img.bygghemma.se/pfiles/Monteringsanvisning%20Bl%C3%A5%20Platon%20Golv.pdf__abaf69bf-2fbb-4c27-a70f-3a1701dda73e.pdf
Plupp 379366: [citat] The question I'm asking myself is whether it's reasonable for just 3.5 cm thick wood to be the only load-bearing structure in the exterior wall. That is, clearly thinner than the interior walls. 50s catalog house. In any case, this will be checked on-site. Thanks!
Umma01: A thousand thanks! Your answer put us on the right track! Suddenly, we got YouTube hits when we googled, so we can see how to do it. : )
cpalm: [citat] Then at least it is concrete where there must be supports, etc.
SCB: I also think that Sundströms SR100 & SR900 work perfectly fine with glasses.
maah: I can imagine it's tricky to fit the tongue and groove when you're alone. Are they 600mm panels? I would have tried to solve it myself by renting a panel lift, but I'm not one to give up easily either. What you need is someone to help you lift and hold in place, and for that, anyone with two functioning arms will do. Is there a Facebook group in your area where you can ask?
Lovikavanten: [citat] No, that's what I concluded as well.. we will probably skip EPS and spend that money on something else :)
fln213: Hello, updating the thread. The challenge wasn't the moisture; the basement is well-drained and dry. No moisture problems at all, actually. However, the weight from the stairs did become a challenge for the joint. Despite elastic PP, I eventually had to place a thin strip on the outside. The alternative would have been to reinforce the inside, but I didn't want to do that as it is a storage area.
Sigrid1: [citat] Do you also plaster over the stud, or just fill there?
xnz: Is the wall load-bearing? The pellet boiler has been removed and the old firewall between the laundry room and boiler room no longer serves any purpose. The wall is made of brick (to the right of the door section) and concrete cavity blocks to the left of the door. Both brick and concrete cavity blocks are about 10 cm thick. It is not attached to the ceiling or floor (not embedded) and at the two
Zips: Thank you for your answers. I also consider it unlikely (but not impossible, that's why I haven't drilled anything yet) that it is eternit. It is also not original but added later than 1978. Quite a bit later is my guess. It's just difficult to be completely sure.