Building Materials and Construction Technology
Avemo: Building a frame and insulating on top of a concrete slab in a basement is generally considered a risky construction that should be avoided and removed when found. It is unlikely to improve just because there's asphalt in a garage. However, as decayed as it appears in the pictures, I find it hard to believe it's just condensation or moisture from the ground. Could water be seeping into the
Discoman: [citat] You sound so cynical, Claes :) I agree that there can be a lot of bureaucracy sometimes, but the idea from Boverket, which sets these rules, is to prevent people from accidentally demolishing their houses.
agilde: Help! We are renovating our extra room at home. We've put up furring strips for the ceiling and added double gypsum board for soundproofing to the upper floor. I initially thought the beadboard should naturally run in the same direction as the light enters, and thus framed accordingly. Now it turns out that the original flooring, which is under a vinyl mat, follows the opposite direction from the
Sir_fixalot: [citat] Thanks! Yes, that's roughly what I'm looking for: It might be a bit high possibly.
BirgitS: Then the risk of asbestos increases quite significantly. During those years, one might have transitioned from an asbestos-containing vinyl floor to an asbestos-free one with the same appearance.
Kanelbullen123: [citat] Biltema also has Multibond Rapid, which is an MS polymer, similar to Tec7, costing 79 https://www.biltema.se/bygg/farg/fog-och-tatningsmassa/tatningsmedel/multibond-rapid-vit-290-ml-2000053939
MWHN: [citat] If you have painted the trims yourself, it's fine to putty over any marks from the brad nailer and then paint another coat with the trims in place. Make sure all brads/nails are driven in a bit. I've done it this way, and it becomes completely invisible. With pre-painted, unpainted, or painted with non-covering paint, of course, it doesn't work.
nimhed: But then it's probably an old vent that has been decommissioned and they haven't bothered to remove completely.
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt: If the angle above the left side of the window is 45’, cut both at 22.5. Try with pieces.
Phlomis: [citat] I will try with my other knife, maybe the blade is a bit softer on that one. Thanks for the tip! 👍
Arne999: The next problem is what to do with the walls. It's partly hard plaster that's stuck like rock and old paint in some places, and completely smooth where the fix was sanded. Three interior walls are 110% dry, one exterior wall definitely has some moisture in it, after all, it's an old basement. The easiest would be if there were some putty-like material so I could skim coat everything. BUT I can't
CarJ: Great with all the answers :) After reading everything, I think a good solution might be to: - Continue down with the battens mounted on the sides of the rafters to provide support at the top for the wall insulation. - Reinforce laterally from the inside with a diagonal board or perforated tape, which also gives extra support to the insulation. - Add extra nails to the exterior panel to further
Kane: [citat] If the material is too thin, drill straight through; on the backside, drill larger holes so a nut can be used that way. Then place a cover cap there.
Cheesen: Probably won't work as you intended. There are hinges that look different. If you don't want the fittings to be visible for aesthetic reasons, I would check out Blum's hinges and mount them on a renovation plate.
Testarn: If the masonite hasn't been damaged by moisture, then a nail batten shouldn't be either. You can place the batten on the masonite and let it remain there.
fribygg: [citat] There are typically no studs in the walls of houses from the forties.
Arne999: I have an old foundation left after demolishing a barn. It is located on a slope and has about 2.5M of "earth pressure" on one side (where I'm taking the photo from) and nothing on the other side. My plan is to cut off at least 1.5 meters of the wall according to the red line and build a new wall, then simply fill the space with macadam. The bottom here is an old slab, and the side with earth
Intet: [citat] Of course. Provided that the joist module is the same everywhere.
Alkej0ne: The green color visible at the cut is from the saw blade, not from the sill itself.
Kristoffer Carlsson66: [citat] Hello, what are the dimensions of the tech room? Width and depth?
Cole123: [citat] Yes startlist! Exactly like that thank you thank you!
naikon: [citat] [citat] Smart!! Thanks. I'll probably fill with mesh or some leca. Sounds easy.
z_bumbi: You will get very heavy gates if you use 45 mm thick timber.
Nissegandhi: Long shot but there is a company called Osby dörren that manufactures doors and windows.
fribygg: -44 was probably bright wire nails clearly the dominant fastening material in construction