Building Materials and Construction Technology
MalZon: [citat] Yep. Just need to place it exactly according to how the beams and ceiling go. Will have to tape where necessary too.
Lasse Morin: I ended up far from the starting point. Now it's double 45x145 (with polyurethane glue in between, can't hurt). The construction will be higher than in the drawing...
justusandersson: The "simplest" is probably to pick up, for example, two tiles and replace them with shorter variants, which then need a new support in some form.
FemTummar: I have a couple of rooms measuring 4x3 m where there is currently drywall on the ceiling. I want to keep the drywall for fire and insulation reasons and mount panel boards on them. The underlying spacing (~ cc 30) naturally doesn't match the width of the boards, and I would prefer to avoid adding furring strips since I'm both behind schedule (the electrician is booked -- if I'm not done with mine
Okarlsson: I agree with the above, of course. If you still want a "how long is a piece of string" answer, I would say 15,000:- per wall + surface layer and 5000 for an electrical outlet per wall. That being said, it can cost 25 or 50 thousand too, but just so you have an idea.
Pear4Life: Insert a small screwdriver and feel :) Big difference in load-bearing capacity on single/double plasterboard...
noone70: I need to get hold of knauf Betokontakt or equivalent to prime the underfloor heating plates so that the self-leveling compound adheres properly to them. Where can I find it south of Stockholm? Bauhaus and hornbach don't have it Bejer is out
Kattenmåns: Hello I'm looking for new bricks that look old, i.e., are slightly differently colored in each stone, and are 120 mm. It's for a wall where a Willab greenhouse will be built and needs to be 120 mm or more. Most bricks are 108 mm, e.g., at Randers Tegl. I've found Haga Wienerberger, see image, which is 120 mm but very expensive. Do you have any tips on other options for new bricks that are
Snickarkirre: Do you have any other ventilation in the foundation and do you have problems with moisture in the slab? If you don't have any ventilation, then the moisture that forms there has to go somewhere, otherwise, you'll have mold like never before. I can't answer if you need it or not, if the slab is dry and fine, then maybe you don't need it.
useless: Looks like a regular electrical cable from before. You should probably follow it and see if/what it is used for.
justusandersson: It is possible to calculate it, but I dare say straight away that it won't be good. OSB is not the right material for that task because it has poor tensile strength. The most optimal material (price/performance) I believe is thin birch plywood, approximately 12 mm thick with 9 layers.
Daniel 109: It depends on the purpose. If you want a nice surface, flap discs are good. If you want to remove material, the regular grinding disc is more effective.
Flk: Hello! My partner and I have bought our first house, a wooden house from 1936. Naturally, with this comes a thousand questions. I would say that I have a fairly good grasp on how various renovations work, but the only thing I haven't renovated/replaced is the ceilings. In the living room/kitchen, there is wood paneling with a distinct wood texture on the ceiling (of the brand Huntonit, see
justusandersson: They should be positioned like an uppercase i. The outer measurement will be 120 in width and 210 in height. You can experiment with the composition of the parts according to the same principle. It's only your imagination that sets the limits. Why should you insert insulation from below? c/c is determined by the dimension of the floorboards. 600 is probably suitable if you don't plan to use extra
Olf Oggler: Are these kinds of walls frost-resistant? Or does the mortar release? How should the stones be cleaned before masonry?
Åsa Sjödin: [citat] Ok there is room for about 2 cm, is that too little? It sounds a bit little.
sven.h: [citat] Yeah. Why complicate when you can make it simple. Simpler at least... Thank you. You've got my thoughts back on track again.
Eilott: [citat] How did you handle the screws and the direction of the posts, and did it become stable?
KnockOnWood: [citat] Yes, I am! But perhaps not as active since Feb. 2021 when we left the build of our life and moved to a condominium apartment.
bryggstun: Is it okay to drill larger holes? e.g., 30mm. What type of drill bit? Small holes are no problem. Have cut with an angle grinder and metal disc. Smokes a bit but works if you don't need the highest finish.
Freniño: [citat] Thank you very much! [citat] Yes, just what I was considering. Thank you so much for the help!!
justusandersson: One can assume that the wall is composed of several different materials in layers. Likely, the outer part consists of plaster. The core could be wood (i.e., planks), brick, aerated concrete, or concrete. Other types of masonry are also possible. Plaster (cement/lime + sand) is soft, concrete is rock-hard. Homogeneous concrete walls found in more modern houses are uncommon in houses from the
MiaSthlm: [citat] Haha had missed a c so it should be 0.5 cm
MiaSthlm: Need help with our newly built, or rather under construction, guest cottage that has leaning exterior walls. This was discovered when the window trim was to be mounted, and the windows are mounted according to the exterior wall. What is acceptable for a one-story house, and how is it best measured? I want to be well-prepared when we have a meeting with the builders. From what I understand, it's 5
Johan111: Hello! Did you come up with a good solution? I'm thinking the exact same thoughts. For those of you who have lowered the grill directly onto concrete, does it scratch a lot? It would be nice if you could handle it while keeping the warranty intact... / Johan
[old rusty]: [citat] But the difference between drywall and gypsum plaster is mold on the paper vs the plaster coming loose and you find out it was a bit too humid. Quite a big difference. But we probably agree, really. But I didn't have the option to wait as long before painting as some said you should after lime plaster. My point is that gypsum can handle a certain amount of moisture. And if it doesn't