Building Materials and Construction Technology
klaskarlsson: [citat] As Kane writes, if you can attach it to the studs, that's fine. A drywall itself can't handle more than maybe a picture, towel hook, or mirror, I would say. Attaching a shelf for a heavy pot is something I wouldn't do with just drywall - you would need many attachment points with good drywall anchors.
surris: Unedged boards are still used, so drawing conclusions based solely on that is difficult.
Nygge72: [citat] Yes, I'm aware of that. But I was wondering if there was a more guided one with
oveåfasa: It was a long time ago... how did it go and please include a photo with a description of how you did it. I am about to do something similar but in my own property.
Karl Heinz: Do you think 15mm plywood behind it is enough? It's the metal slats in the cassette that are wobbly and tend to flex.
Johan_kl: Hi, I don't know if this is the right part of the forum, but I'll give it a try. I have craftspeople working on a bathroom renovation, they have good references and seem knowledgeable. Yesterday I noticed they accidentally nicked one of the tubes for the hydronic floor heating when they were chiseling around the floor drain. The tube is cast a bit down into the slab. Luckily, it hasn't gone all
BirgitS: A portal/large opening is indeed better because then there remains a piece of wall by the windows that stabilizes the house.
riob: Hi I am about to install windows in a basement built with Thermomur 250, which consists of 50mm foam insulation - 150mm concrete - 50mm foam insulation. Around the window, there is a 45mm wooden stud recessed, but how deep in relation to the facade should I install the windows? /Rickard
Johan Gunverth: [citat] Yep. Just make sure the hole is clean and dust-free. Blow into the drilled hole with a straw and catch the dust with a vacuum cleaner. Canned air works too. Unfortunately, a vacuum cleaner alone doesn't clear all the way to the end of the hole, and that's where the grip against the plug is most important.
Raggsockan: Small update, but would appreciate some reflections. Wall construction consists of the following Inside out Gypsum OSB Icopal Windy Cellulose insulation loose Icopal Windy Battens Wood panel I have now started reading up on cellulose, and there seem to be different solutions and facts about what's applicable? Welcome any tips.
BirgitS: [citat] Is it possible to make your own template, after disassembling the shelves, based on the screw holes?
JF.: [citat] Yes, the extension is connected to the existing building.
gnuttas: Någon som känner till om man kan såga dessa lister lika finurligt i ytterhörn som man sågar dem i innerhörn? Eller får man bara gera dem helt enkelt?
Kalbygge: I have used a lot of foam from Byggmax. Never had a problem, not with the one from Biltema either. Also bought more expensive foam when the store was closer that time. Didn't see any difference at all between them and it resulted in the same volume from them.
Hoffa88: [citat] All the rooms on the upper floor will be done, but not simultaneously. Therefore, I am considering if one can do room by room with a vapor barrier and then "wrap" the whole room with the barrier. I know that you should ideally wrap the entire upper floor before building the rooms, but that is not possible for us, so we are taking it room by room.
Erik Salhammar: [citat] Stainless steel washers between the wall and fixture?
Jensajones: [citat] Hi, would you be willing to share the design? Super nice and exactly how we want to do it.
Jansson69: [citat] Ok, I wouldn't have been worried about only having horizontal spikkäkt type 28x70..
Linn LK: [citat] You're absolutely right about that. It will probably be a small door in.
Lostmoose: Update: The chimney is now painted and the stove installed. [bild] In the end, it became regular wall paint. I visited Måleributiken, which has been my go-to store when I've been unsure before. They aren't the cheapest, but so far they've always led me in the right direction. On the advice of a stove installer, they had recommended regular wall paint for a number of years without complaints.
buhu: I have a townhouse. I have district heating via a homeowners' association, a single-pipe system, and a basement that hasn't been drained in 50 years. All the other houses here look the same, and nobody has even thought about draining because no one has problems with the basements. If it ain't broken don't fix it regarding the drainage. Now, the staircase down to the basement is against the
Småbrukaren: Hammer drill with a long bit. Then sledgehammer.
Jansson69: Here are universal mounts in smaller packs.. Grunda never hurts..
Anna_vedpanna: [citat] When I measured from the stove to the combustible material, the boards needed to be that wide, at least up to the top of the stove, whereas the flue pipe doesn't need to be that wide. I considered placing them vertically, but there was something about the measurements from the stove that made me do it the way I did. If they accept 10 cm from flue pipe to the board, then I'm safe. Yep,
Jansson69: [citat] No plastic, but wind barrier is good, however, the easiest is to buy wind barrier tape like this.. https://www.bauhaus.se/tatningstejp-siga-wigluv-vindtat-60mm-40m
MWHN: A mouse that has died and decayed can cause such brown stains.
Pappa1986: [citat] Send them away and absolutely pay nothing.
olaandersson: [citat] Good to know that it can work!
Snickis85: I'm reopening the discussion again... I'm renovating a room in my house from the 60s. To test and see the result, I've tried 2 different methods. The ceiling has a paper strip in joint compound according to standard, whereas on the walls, I've glued the strip with waterproof adhesive without plastering the joints first because I will be applying a reinforcing fleece (flugger 130gr) on the walls.
Skrattverket: I have a polished concrete surface that I need to treat, but I also want to darken it. Without specifying unnecessary details, do you think it's possible for me to find a transparent oil (I only have transparent for this) and mix in black iron oxide? Surely I’m not imagining that I'll get a darker surface when the concrete absorbs the oil? Compare it, for example, to spilling motor oil on the