Paper strips under filler that come loose... how to fix easily?

[Johan Gunverth]

To further confuse the discussion a bit, I'll bring up a tip I received at my paint store regarding attaching strips in filler. They suggested cutting strips to appropriate lengths and then soaking them for ten to fifteen minutes before attaching them. This makes them a bit easier to attach in the filler without getting air bubbles underneath. I used this the last time I attached strips and thought it worked well. However, I don't know what the industry standard says about this method. Nor do I really know how well it holds in the long run (yet). But it was at least easy to attach the strips using this method.

Some manufacturers of strips note that you should NOT soak them, but I understand the good intention behind your method. It's like wallpapering with regular paper wallpaper.

 

[sandhall]

Apparently, the strip has a front and back side, the outside of the roll should be towards the wall...

Probably depends on the brand then. On my rolls it was the opposite (Hornbach). There is a crease in the middle so you can putty inner corners. It usually indicates which way the strip should be folded and from that, you can determine which is the front and back.

By the way, I used Hornbach strips directly with light filler from Byggmax in our house. No problems. It's important to find a good filler for the job. Slightly thicker steel with a bit more spring than the broad knives. And the right width.

 

[Mikael_L]

I think it's about time we agree on how we should do it.

 

[AndersS]

But do agree that YBG says that glued strips are okay and sometimes even preferable over spackled strips? And that there wasn't anything majorly wrong with the gut feeling?

Yes indeed, that's what I've been saying all along, that it works perfectly well under certain conditions.
However, I still maintain that their recommendation is if you can spackle it in, that's the solution you should choose. And if you find it difficult to spackle it in, you can glue it under certain conditions, a bit of good, better, and best.
I can also imagine that professionals spackle it in to save a step in the process, as you don't have to wait for the glue to dry.

 

[AndersS]

I think it's time we agree on how one should do it.

Check YBG and their writings/recommendations.
You can use both methods, but it becomes a matter of good, better, and best. If you have control over the foundation with a stable frame, double boards on the walls, everything properly attached, etc., then you can surely choose any method as long as you use paper tape.
If you're uncertain about the foundation, you might consider embedding the tape, even though in 90% of cases it also works with glued. (take my numbers as examples)
And of course, you'll need to paint or wallpaper the wall, which imposes different requirements. If I were to paint, it would be suspenders and a belt, meaning if embedded works a bit better, then do it.
But likewise, if you find embedding tricky and it results in worse outcomes with creases/bubbles, then it might be better to glue.

 

[MathiasS]

I have to say that this whole thing about gluing or puttying is not really a heart issue. I happened to do it one way because I thought it was right and it was a method I managed. BUT, now that I read YBG, I don't quite see what you see, Anders. My interpretation is (according to earlier posts) freely translated to English:

1. YBG says that you can just as well glue the strip if you prefer, regardless of seam type (cut or recessed)
2. YBG says that if there is a gap between the boards that exceeds the recommended, gluing the strip is suggested.

I don't see anywhere anything that can be interpreted as a putty strip being better from a strength perspective. On the contrary, according to #2. Where do you get this better best from, Anders? Gut feeling?

I think painters prefer a putty strip because it's faster if you do everything in one step. YBG seems to say that gluing is best when the seam is questionable, but it's also a slower method.

 

[MathiasS]

I think it's time for us to agree on how it should be done.

It says so in YBG. Glue if you feel like it. Glue when there is a wide gap between the boards. Case closed. It's only Anders who says that spackled is better.

 

[Mattias Jönsson]

In my small world, it's simple: Glue first, then putty - regardless of the joint. The purpose is for it to stay together with as little movement and as good strength as possible - and then you usually glue. At least I haven't met anyone who brings out putty to join things together.

 

[AndersS]

It says in YBG. Glue if you feel like it. Glue when there is a wide gap between the boards. Case closed. It's only Anders who says that filling is better.

No, not me, but I have only relayed what I have received from someone who is in the painting business since I don't work with it myself and was referred to YBG by him if I wanted to delve deeper. But as I said, do it in the way you feel comfortable with.

 

[Snickis85]

I'm reopening the discussion again... I'm renovating a room in my house from the 60s. To test and see the result, I've tried 2 different methods. The ceiling has a paper strip in joint compound according to standard, whereas on the walls, I've glued the strip with waterproof adhesive without plastering the joints first because I will be applying a reinforcing fleece (flugger 130gr) on the walls. Do you think the fleece will reinforce everything to prevent cracks even if the strip is glued without filling the joint first? Right now, the joints look pretty okay even though the strip is somewhat recessed in the gap between the panels, but nothing that the joint compound can't fill. Sometimes some bubbles appear, but I make a cut and fill it with the adhesive. I will also prime the wall before the fleece with a special adhesion primer. I still have time to tear everything down if you think the fleece will not prevent gaps, bubbles, and cracked surfaces. Thanks!