Hello!
I am planning to build a "wall" to cover the side of my refrigerator. I previously received suggestions to use MDF but have now decided on a more sturdy wall, meaning with a frame and drywall. What I am wondering is the following:
- The wall will be 70 cm wide. Do I need to insert an "extra" vertical stud in the frame? Or is it enough with a bottom plate, a top plate, and two studs connecting these?
- I found a beautiful leaded glass window in the basement, measuring 65*65, and I would love to integrate it into the wall. I'm thinking of creating a hole in the drywall for the window and then gluing it on? So it doesn't need to be openable.
- Does that work?
- If it works, I assume the stud can only be 2.5 wide, so the window fits. Is that reasonable, or does the stud need to be wider?
Thanks so much!
I am planning to build a "wall" to cover the side of my refrigerator. I previously received suggestions to use MDF but have now decided on a more sturdy wall, meaning with a frame and drywall. What I am wondering is the following:
- The wall will be 70 cm wide. Do I need to insert an "extra" vertical stud in the frame? Or is it enough with a bottom plate, a top plate, and two studs connecting these?
- I found a beautiful leaded glass window in the basement, measuring 65*65, and I would love to integrate it into the wall. I'm thinking of creating a hole in the drywall for the window and then gluing it on? So it doesn't need to be openable.
- Does that work?
- If it works, I assume the stud can only be 2.5 wide, so the window fits. Is that reasonable, or does the stud need to be wider?
Thanks so much!
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 8 573 posts
You can probably build such a wall with anything from 45x54 to 95x45, it won't be very large or load-bearing.Jonawullt said:
Hello!
I'm going to build a "wall" to cover the side of my refrigerator. I previously received suggestions for MDF but have now decided on a more sturdy wall, with a frame and plasterboard. What I'm wondering is the following:
- The wall will be 70 cm wide. Do I need to insert an "extra" vertical stud in the frame? Or is it enough with a base track, a top track, and two studs connecting these?
- I have found a beautiful leaded window in the basement, measuring 65*65, and would like to integrate it into the wall. I was thinking that I'll create a hole in the plasterboard for the window and then glue it on? It doesn't need to be openable.
- Does it work?
- If it works, I assume the stud can only be 2.5 wide, so the window fits. Is that reasonable width, or does the stud need to be wider?
Thank you so much!
A stud at the bottom (against the floor), one against the ceiling, and one on each side (cc60 cm is the general recommendation, but if such a "side wall" happens to be cc 70 it's probably not a big deal).
You might want to insulate so it doesn't become a resonance box.
If a window, if it looks nice, can be integrated, it just requires a few extra studs.
Hi! Thanks for the response!klaskarlsson said:
You can probably build such a wall with anything from 45x54 to 95x45, it won’t be large or load-bearing.
One stud at the bottom (against the floor, one against the ceiling, and one on each side (cc 60 cm is the general recommendation, but if such a "side wall" happens to be cc 70 it probably won't be a big deal)
Insulate if you'd like to prevent it from becoming a resonance box.
A window, if it looks nice, can be integrated, just requires a few extra studs.
Do the studs need to be 45x54 then? That is, is it not possible to have thinner studs?
And do I need to insulate if I'm only going to cover one side with plasterboard?
There are a variety of dimensions on "reglar" that you can use. Choose the dimension that is closest to the thickness of the window frame.
For example, 34x70 which is mounted on the plate.
With a thinner sheet glued and screwed on the back like 8 mm plywood or 3 mm hardboard, you also get better stability and you won't be able to see through the window.
Insulate with for example 30mm styrofoam.
For example, 34x70 which is mounted on the plate.
With a thinner sheet glued and screwed on the back like 8 mm plywood or 3 mm hardboard, you also get better stability and you won't be able to see through the window.
Insulate with for example 30mm styrofoam.
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 8 573 posts
45x45 is what I meant (typo) - should be enough for a small "fridge wall"Jonawullt said:
But 45x70, 45x95 will also work
Would regular 22mm (maybe 22x95) work?
Probably, at least if you also have a board on the outside (e.g., 12 mm plywood or even MDF).
But the ceiling is likely 2.50 meters high, so it might get a bit "bendy" in the middle unless you attach it to a wall properly then, for example - that will probably stabilize it.
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 8 573 posts
Hi! Is MDF needed even if I attach gypsum to the framework?klaskarlsson said:
45x45 I mean, of course (typo) - should be enough for a small "fridge wall"
But 45x70, 45x95 work, of course, too
Would, for example, regular 22mm (maybe 22x95) work?
Probably, at least if you also have a board on the outside (e.g., 12 mm ply or even MDF).
But it's likely 2.50 in ceiling height, so it might get a little "wobbly" in the middle unless you attach it to a wall properly then, for example - that will probably stabilize it
The plasterboard can handle that, but if you can't attach the shelf to the studs, I would put OSB behind the plasterboard. You never know what the future holds regarding the use of the wall...Jonawullt said:
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 8 573 posts
As Kane writes, if you can attach it to the studs, that's fine.Jonawullt said:
A drywall itself can't handle more than maybe a picture, towel hook, or mirror, I would say.
Attaching a shelf for a heavy pot is something I wouldn't do with just drywall - you would need many attachment points with good drywall anchors.
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