Building Materials and Construction Technology
Hammarskallen: [citat] If you bevel them, you increase the cut surface, so it becomes counterproductive.
J Vos: The image you're showing is not a good solution. The best is to insert a beam that you then plaster.
jakobsbygge: I have taken on a new project at home and am going to lay tiles on top of the waterproofing layer in what will be a small toilet. About 1.5 square meters of floor and the wall against the fixture. I have been instructed that this stone should be used: NATURSTEN BOTTICINO ANTIK MARBLE 30.5x30.5. and I'm beginning to realize that it's not the easiest material to work with. What should I use to cut
Violina: The thing that looks the worst (according to me, as I work as a designer, but in a different field) is the fact that you have air between two components that are "screwed together".. This means that only the screws are taking all the loads/stresses! Normally, you screw the components together to get friction between the parts, which is what actually takes the majority of the load. And as
LexLux: Will be installing radiators in the basement with the new LVVP that will be commissioned on Tuesday. I have removed all loose plaster and used an angle grinder to remove most of the blue paint where the radiators will be placed. Once that was done, it turned out there was a larger crack in what I assume is lightweight concrete, and it looks like it has been repaired once before. Question: Can I
M_Sc: Upon closer inspection, the beam is not resting against the joist at all; it's possible to insert a knife blade into the gap all the way. Could it still be that the joist is load-bearing, or is this a good sign that it is not?
Jansson69: [citat] There are grooved EPS boards in which you lay plates and underfloor heating pipes. LK has 30mm, 50mm, and 70mm ready-made or you can use 30mm and lay an additional layer underneath.. https://golvvarmebutiken.se/vattenburen-golvvarme/sparskivor/eps/lk-combiboard-eps
BirgitS: It will be a guess, but I believe there's a pillar between the doors that supports the beams above the doors. However, it is possible to hire a structural engineer who can calculate a new stronger beam above the opening and new stronger pillars on each side of it.
Johan Rydell: Hi! How did you do in the end? I have the same question here.
sveham123: [citat] Check bolist building instructions for a cross table. Fairly easy to build. I've built about 20 with lengths between 2 meters and 5 meters.
BirgitS: How large are the irregularities? If it's 1-3 mm, you can use paper liner in 1-3 layers. If it's more, there's 3 mm thick masonite. Self-leveling compound will likely run down between the boards, so that doesn't sound very good in this case.
Per Karlsson7922: [citat] Hi, thanks for the tips. I bought a bench model at Bauhaus yesterday that has received good reviews. https://www.bauhaus.se/maskiner/elverktyg/planhyvel-scheppach-plm1800-1500w It is a planer, but I will try to joint by shimming up the wood according to the clips linked in the video.
BirgitS: 1.5-story house and the wall under the ridge is very often load-bearing.
ÉlPon: For example, it's easier to get the right level if you just attach a piece of wood to the side and then tighten it from the side. But I don't want that, then it would hang on the screws.
Hunneberg: @klaskarlsson & @mexitegel do you have any thoughts on whether it's possible to solve this without fitting isodrän or a capillary-breaking layer? As I wrote before, placing leca under plastic would likely just lift the moisture since leca absorbs moisture. Placing the plastic at the bottom and out to the walls and then filling with leca there and up towards the underside of the joists and
Jansson69: Otherwise, there is a certified interlay with both functions:
Jansson69: [citat] https://www.proffsmagasinet.se/maskiner-verktyg/matinstrument/fuktmatare/fuktmatare/elma-dt-128m-fuktmatare-2818988
Ironside: Chose to bring in a company that solely works with mapping and analyzing radon in properties. Managed to find one of the few certified companies in this field in Sweden. In the basement room where we are currently measuring a radon level of 350 Bq/m3, they measured only 0.18 µSv/h. Generally, they measured very low values throughout the house. However, they noted that one of the walls actually
Linuslin: [citat] No, I bought it ready-made, also used 5% black pigment in it. I would never have thought it was worth hand-mixing all of that.
Bygdeborgen: Now I see that this post is a few years old, but I'm wondering how you finally solved it? I'm in a bit of the same situation 🙃
Laurentiusson: One doesn't need to exaggerate, but for a kitchen, I would gladly add a few extra screws unless there are some very special conditions.
JF.: Does anyone know where in the AMA building you can find the tolerances for reveals around windows? How much the reveals can vary from each other.
MagHam: - Hammer in any protruding nail heads. - You can create softer transitions at irregularities by, for example, stapling several layers of flooring paper in a decreasing scale. - Use the standard thickness for drywall (12-13 mm). Anything else is excluded!
Ludde Jakobsson: [citat] It stands there with a roof and walls. Missing doors and just need to lay roofing felt, so it should be considered finished. I put some things in it yesterday to mark that it is done. I'll try to paint the other sides during the week.
Centano: The wood should have a maximum moisture content of 16% when you paint. Just keep in mind that there is a risk of the wood drying too quickly if you have it indoors, which can lead to cracks and deformation.
kadgooser: It will be extremely extensive changes for just one truss. Basically, a new truss must be built and the wall must be reinforced. The problem is that when the lower chord of the truss is raised, a lot of horizontal outward forces are transferred to the walls, which they are not built for. In my naivety, I thought it was just a matter of putting in a new lower chord a little higher up and then
Gustav Perman: When I come to the apartment, I will take a better picture. I have spoken with the chairperson of the housing association. She says it is a stone slab. I wonder if wax with black color pigments might work.
Nygge72: Hi awesome group. A while ago, I got help to clear up my thoughts on how to put together a future framework, and I've read/watched videos that you can staple the sill insulation directly onto the sill before raising it. But how do you do that if you divide the wall into smaller sections of about 4m, then you can't staple it beforehand I think, or do you install the insulation/wall section in that
Oldboy: The type of ceiling in living rooms depends on what it can be attached to, the distance between ceiling joists, and of course, personal preferences. If there are sturdy old beautiful ceiling beams, one might want them to be visible. I claim that the cheapest option is a board ceiling that is nailed up. You can use boards with or without a tongue and groove. Tongue and groove boards are not