Building Materials and Construction Technology
Matti_75: Normally, the rule is ignored as the air passes on both sides of it.
bananpermobil: [citat] hi yes that's exactly what I thought too, thanks for the answer! regarding fire risk, the chimney has been out of service for decades, so nothing will get warm there, but it's nice to point it out anyway :)
Thommy Andersson: [citat] Elda stores have rubber boots, I bought a 150 mm for Contura's smoke pipe myself. The older Contura smoke pipes are 168 mm, for them there are rubber boots with a hose clamp. It must fit perfectly for you. I bought mine at the Elda store in Karlstad. 145kr cheap I think.
lembitlembit: [citat] Good point you make..! Now the girls are sleeping, so I can't confirm tonight, but could it be so bad that they've attached the baseboards to the studs..? The reason I suspect this is because we have an identical room next door that also has an exterior wall in the same way. In this room, you have three wall moldings that are a bit lower and one wall (which is the exterior wall) where the
Mats-S: [citat] It completely depends on how it looks above the ceiling. If it's only a thinner beam attached to the ceiling, you can just remove it. If it's part of a beam that goes through the ceiling and the top of the attic, I wouldn't remove it. Can you check how the top of the beam ends, is it flush against the underside of the ceiling?
Purre: [citat] Assumes that the concrete foundation is large enough as well, because otherwise it will give way and the whole ground will shift. That becomes quite a lever with 4m
fribygg: [citat] I consider solid wood to be both easier and better when it comes to private use and the loads occurring there.
Keyboardcowboy: Thanks, I have a neighbor who follows a similar principle. I will check with him.
johboh91: Thank you, I'll test these!
Knalle10: Applies to the bedroom wall adjacent to the neighbor in a condominium property built in the 1940s. Hard to sleep when everything can be heard from the neighbor. You can hear it when he lets one rip. Looking for ideas on how to soundproof the wall without it being too expensive. Maybe ready-made panels or frame/insulate/drywall? Grateful for methods, dimensions, etc.
Johan Gunverth: [citat] 3M 74 is often used when splicing polyether padding in furniture. Same softness as the material, but very strong.
Dennisen: [citat] Hello! Yeah, I think it went quite well, I used a kind of "mesh" in the seam inside the closet because I wasn't going to put wallpaper there, so I applied filler over the mesh and then sanded and painted. In the hallway, I filled the seam and then put renovation wallpaper on top, you can glimpse where the door used to be if you look "actively," otherwise it's not something you notice!
Luckyhouse: [citat] thank you, I will take your advice :-)
Jansson69: [citat] But porous concrete sounds like it can absorb more moisture and that is bad for the rebar used. Then I feel that concrete has changed for the worse through my years in the industry and it is the environmental requirements on the material and manufacturing..
Stefan N: It's fine to use either hand filler or liquid that goes down to 1mm. Primer beforehand regardless.
BirgitS: [citat] Just to avoid misunderstandings. A hjärtvägg is a load-bearing wall that runs approximately along the middle of the house. It can be made of many different materials. It's not easy to get a good hold in brick either, see here for various examples: https://gds.se/material/spik-och-skruv/skruvar-till-betong-tegel-och-lattbetong
Claes Sörmland: [citat] It is a mixture prepared like porridge with a high cement content. It can be applied with, for example, a mason's brush, creating a textured surface that the plaster adheres to well. You can buy products called "grundningsbruk," but in the past, people mixed it themselves, essentially an A-grade mixture in porridge form. You can also reduce the risk of cracks and achieve better adhesion
Stefanp123: [citat] Hi, I assume you're asking me: I don't think we have a problem with radon (due to the type of ground), and since I wrote this, I've concluded that we will not try to have a radon barrier (among other things because it is not a residential building). However, I am still interested in the challenge that a barrier presents in combination with older tried-and-tested solutions, as we are also
z_bumbi: I would glue the guard to the blade, likely with epoxy. Once that's done, drill for a piece of fiberglass rod and glue with epoxy. A piece of threaded rod, etc., glued in place would probably work as well, but it will be heavier.
ZoomZz: How did it turn out in the end? Did you manage to put up the shelf properly? I have the same issue myself and am looking for good solutions.
Oldboy: Hi Jonas It might help to say where in the country, dimensions, quantities and so on... + pictures. I also seem to remember there's a for-sale thread.
albinivik: [citat] Thanks for the comprehensive response! I've now torn off all the old plaster and Mexitegel, should have covered everything properly beforehand because the cleaning took longer than the demolition. I guess it's one of those mistakes you only make once... I'll probably need to hire some masonry help after all because I would like to move the pipe to the left side so I can have a new smaller
z_bumbi: Wet sand with increasingly finer paper. When you reach 1500 to 2000, you can start polishing. Begin with a coarser paste/powder/"stick" and then use finer ones. Between each step, rinse off to remove all remnants of the previous step. Starting too fine only creates more work, and you don't need to repeat each step more than necessary to remove the marks from the previous one. In other words, it's
peroande: I think it looks like raw concrete. You can see holes from air bubbles during the casting.
Thomas_Blekinge: I built such a staircase for outdoors: [bild] Designed everything myself and a local smithy made the steel parts in galvanization. I recall the price for the steel details was around 30 kkr. I made the steps in oak and installed them on-site. Keep in mind that this will be quite heavy, so ensure that your floors can support it.
fribygg: [citat] The red posts in the picture could be replaced with longer ones of the same thickness.
litenalma: Hej Nu har jag, med hammare och stämjärn, rivit ner gammal tapet, trä, och puts (gips??) I källaren. Så här ser nu både inner- och ytterväggar ut. Vad behöver jag göra nu? Tänker att betongen behöver lagas här och var, och sen lägga nåt ytskikt för att få plan yta, men vad? Gips? Puts? Hjälp! #nollkoll
StellaGBG: Hello! We have a tiled wood stove in our bedroom in the cottage from 1934 (it used to be a kitchen). The mortar is cracked and has started to come loose, so we're thinking of removing it and retiling. Underneath is brick (very uneven). I've tried to read up on it but can't quite figure out which plaster/mortar to use under the tiles (under the tile adhesive, that is). The wood stove is approved
Avemo: Building a frame and insulating on top of a concrete slab in a basement is generally considered a risky construction that should be avoided and removed when found. It is unlikely to improve just because there's asphalt in a garage. However, as decayed as it appears in the pictures, I find it hard to believe it's just condensation or moisture from the ground. Could water be seeping into the