Elfa system as a bookshelf: Top track or screwed-in wall rails?

[Kurryman]

Hello!

We want to try an Elfa system for our book collection instead of our current solution consisting of several Billy bookshelves.

In the general assembly of the Elfa system, there are many examples where a top track is mounted, where only the top track is screwed into the wall (after which the wall uprights are hung on the top track). A nice solution with fewer drill holes in the wall .

Since we will have a large number of books on the shelves, I wonder if such a solution is suitable in our case as well? (Can the top track handle such a large weight?) The wall in question is made of plaster+brick as far as I can see.

Many thanks in advance for your response!

Best regards, Erik

 

[Johan Gunverth]

It will manage if you are careful with the mounting of the top rail. Use all holes and the correct mounting in the wall. Unlike the wall rail which creates a pulling force perpendicular to the wall, the rail's mounting needs to handle a pulling force along the wall, i.e., straight down. In other words, the wall rail "hangs" in the hole.
Classic TP-plug (green 12mm) and 6x80mm screw work well in brick walls. Test with a 10mm drill first. If it is possible to tap in the plug, the hole is sufficient; otherwise, 12mm

 

[Kurryman]

It can handle it if you are careful with the attachment of the top rail. Use all the holes and the correct attachment to the wall. Unlike the wall rail which creates a pulling force perpendicular to the wall, the rail's attachment needs to withstand a pulling force along the wall, i.e. straight down. In other words, the wall rail "hangs" in the hole.
Classic TP plug (green 12mm) and 6x80mm screws work well in brick walls. Try with a 10mm drill first. If you can tap in the plug, the hole is sufficient, otherwise 12mm.

Elfa sells packages with screws and plugs (TFX 4.8x64 mm). Is it better to buy slightly stronger screws separately according to you?

Best regards, Erik

 

[Johan Gunverth]

Elfa sells packages with screws and plugs (TFX 4.8x64 mm). Do you think it's better to buy slightly sturdier screws separately?

Best regards, Erik

Yes.

 

[ZoomZz]

It will handle it if you are careful with the attachment of the top rail. Use all holes and the correct fixation in the wall. Unlike the wall rail which creates a pulling force perpendicular to the wall, the rail's attachment needs to withstand a pulling force along the wall, i.e., straight down. The wall rail "hangs" in the hole, in other words.
Classic TP plug (green 12mm) and 6x80mm screw work well in brick walls. Test with a 10 mm drill first. If it's possible to knock in the plug then that hole is sufficient, otherwise 12mm

Hello Johan, I see that you have responded to many Elfa posts with sensible answers, so I'll take the opportunity to ask you directly here. I have the same conditions - carrier rail and brick wall. Can Fischer Universal plug at 8mm work or do I need to step up to 10mm or 12mm?

 

[Johan Gunverth]

Hi Johan, I see that you have answered many Elfa posts with sensible replies so I thought I'd ask you directly here. I have the same conditions - a load-bearing strip and a brick wall. Can I use Fischer Universal plugs at 8mm or do I need to go up to 10mm or 12mm?

It depends on many things. "Brick" can be solid or hollow brick. Solid brick is easier to get a steady hold in. Hollow brick usually requires different plugs than TP, but the one from Fischer called Duopower seems good. If you end up in a brick joint it can be quite tricky to get a hold, so measure carefully and try to find out where the joint is.

8 mm TP in solid brick holds for sure, as does the one from Fischer. 5x50 mm screws will work well then. With blue 10 mm TP, you'll need 5x60 or 6x60. The important thing is that the screw threads go through the entire length of the plug and an additional 5-10 mm.

 

[ZoomZz]

I believe it's solid brick. It's a structural wall in an apartment from 1929. It's 2–3 cm plaster followed by brick. I needed a hammer drill to get through. Therefore, I chose 10 cm plugs and screws – FASADPLUGG FISCHER DUOXPAND T K NV 8×100 mm.

One more question: you've mentioned that you can use polyurethane adhesive to make it more secure. What do you think about using a dab of anchoring compound instead?

 

[Johan Gunverth]

What do you think about a dab of anchor adhesive instead?

Not at all sure that it will be better. The plug is designed to expand into the wall material. Brick is solid, and then glue or adhesive prevents the plug from gripping and deforming against the hole's inner wall. If it had been Leca in the wall, it would be a different matter. Both glue and anchor adhesive help to fill in all the pores and gaps. I probably recommended urethane glue for Leca.

 

[ZoomZz]

Not at all certain that it will be better. The plug is designed to expand into the wall material. Brick is solid and then glue or compound prevents the plug from gripping and deforming against the inner wall of the hole. If it had been Leca in the wall, it's a different matter. Then both glue and anchor compound help fill out all the pores and gaps. It was probably for Leca that I suggested urethane glue.

So in my case, is it best to go without anything and just use the plug?

 

[Johan Gunverth]

So, in my case, is it best to go without anything and just use a plug?

Yep. Just make sure the hole is clean and dust-free. Blow into the drilled hole with a straw and catch the dust with a vacuum cleaner. Canned air works too. Unfortunately, a vacuum cleaner alone doesn't clear all the way to the end of the hole, and that's where the grip against the plug is most important.