Building Materials and Construction Technology
AG84: Need a few extra tiles to avoid buying whole packages. Looking for some more tiles Marmoleum Click Forbo. Looking for 2 tiles 30x30 moon 3 tiles 30x30 rosmary green. Does anyone have some to sell?
Testarn: It turned out great when it was finished! Fun that you found a drainage solution that didn't hide your work and the fine detail.
neo11: Forget the mesh. Base with 3 mm c mortar, and apply with 3 mm c mortar. And smooth/fine finish with 1 mm c mortar.
heimlaga: That kind of thing can usually happen when painting. Once the boards are on the wall, almost all of them will eventually cup the right way over time. Permanently wrong-way cupped boards occur when sawn boards have been dried intensely in a lumber kiln and then planed. When they then encounter actual outdoor humidity, they cup the wrong way.
CB75074: Hello everyone :-) I'm finally getting around to building a staircase in the garage, up to the loft. The stringers will be about 360 cm long. Width of the steps 110 cm. Material question: - Stringer: It should be enough with a glued laminated beam in dimension 42x180 - Steps: It should be enough with a regular C24 beam, 45 thick. - Steps: I plan to rout a groove in the middle on the underside and
Jansson69: I would guess that nowadays the majority of all paneling is nailed using a gun when building new or doing complete renovations where the paneling of the entire house is replaced, sure there are some who hand nail everything but they are probably few..
PGARD: I have used the Utac R5, a white composite cable clip that is incredibly convenient.. I don't remember where I bought mine but I see that it is discounted at www.skruvhuset.se https://www.skruvhuset.se/kabelklammer-plast-utac-r5-vit-520st/product/SH15044/19097054218
tantal: [citat] Thanks for the tip! Yes, that's a possibility, but won't material accumulate on the sheet and start growing algae and moss? How do you keep it clean?
tergo: test with a backing rod that you press in, if you have 15mm try with a 20-25mm you probably won't need to soft seal then
Perham: Yes, that's kind of how I feel. It gets harder to change walls after the floors are installed though. But I'll probably continue with the walls and sometime in the future, I'll have to cut them open and check.
Marlen Eskilsson: [citat] No, we have painted a little, but underneath there was a rough gray-beige surface. It is confirmed with the previous owner (whose father built the house) that the board comes from the Lomma eternitfabrik. (addition: We live in Lomma and the eternitfabrik was located here in the village)
Testarn: [citat] Presumably not. If the hole in the softer material becomes larger than the drill bit, the larger drill bit can be inserted into the slightly larger hole before starting the machine, thus not making the hole even larger. You'll notice the difference when you do it. Speaking of doing it, I think you've now gotten all the information and tips you can get remotely, so now it's time to put the
Hybro: The floor is indeed loaded the entire way when it is driven in over the floor. Or is it not counted when the car is in motion? Only when it is stationary?
Kentaclinta78: [citat] Thanks for the answer. That the threads sticking out on the screw cut into the wood (rule) is basically the same method as drilling a smaller hole of about 6 mm for an 8 mm diameter -concrete- screw (2 mm). Sounds completely logical when you put it that way. Screw model https://www.biltema.se/bygg/fastelement/byggskruvar/betongskruv-ffs-75-x-82-mm-50-st-2000057374
Matti_75: Spontaneously, you need to release the frame and move it outward at the top on that side. You should check with a spirit level how the frame and door leaf are positioned to get more help.
Stefan N: You can take that down and if you clean them from bruk you can probably rebuild them again.
Farstatjej90: The staircase was likely painted because the surface looked bad, so even if you happen to find a way to save the surface and only remove the paint, you probably won't have done anything worthwhile anyway. In other threads about similar issues, something called "lackfräs" is sometimes recommended...
evoline: So it is not a requirement or a standard building rule, just something that is recommended if possible. Thanks
scorp1on: Do you have no way to see if there's a bearing before the wall you want to remove at all? I would recommend adjusting in such a case. Send a PM to me if you want me to help with the sizing.
JF.: I just discovered that the floor chipboard the carpenter has installed is intended for a 17mm pipe system. I have LK 16mm in the rest of the house. Is it possible to use 16mm heat distribution plates in the grooves? It only differs by 1mm but maybe that means the hose won't lock into the plates since they are intended for 17mm, does anyone have experience?
Jansson69: Yes, it will be visible, plywood strips as well as masonite work well for shimming.
Peter_Bromma: Agreeing with Matti that the image is a bit unclear, looks like it's beneath some horizontal battens. A small mouse can get in if it's 5 mm, so check carefully, it also depends on where that gap leads. I'm currently trying to fix what someone messed up when it was built, so it's easier to look extra and correct it now if needed. The mouseband should be where it's ventilated behind the facade, to
McCarl: Hi, I'm looking for some tips for building a joinery in the barn. Especially concerning vapor barriers, insulation, etc. in the intermediate floor. I've managed to clear out all the junk that's been there for years so I can finally start building a bit 🙂 The joinery will be on the ground floor, so one problem is that "dirt and gravel" falls down, but I'm thinking of stapling a windscreen on
ArneTW: you want insulation paper between wet and dry. i.e., you have a leca foundation where moisture can be drawn capillarily upwards, you want to have paper between leca and wood. If your pressure-treated wood risks moisture from below, it's better to place the paper under the pressure-treated wood... If the treated wood is always dry, the paper has no function and can be skipped. /ATW
Amanda Sa: Thank you, how kind of you to look! What worries me is that there are cracks on the part of the load-bearing wall that remains (see pictures) and that it gets worse every day. Is there a risk that the beam is incorrectly dimensioned? The brown lines are markings I have made to see how much the cracks are growing. [bild]
Liljeros: [citat] Interior walls can, for instance, serve the function of stabilizing the house against wind loads.