Building Materials and Construction Technology
PNO: There are significantly wider post shoes and adjustable post shoes. Otherwise, you can take two or four of these: [bild]
Johan92: Anyone have more tips on how to easily replace the rotten facade on an Älvsbyhus where the panel has rotted at the bottom?
jannesspånodamm: but plåtmolly-no plastic
Fotografen: So very much later I recall that a classmate in fourth grade, we're talking the year 1981, drained around the house, or the parents did the draining, and then clay pipes were laid down, in 1981. From there, I remember these joint rings. So into the '80s anyway.
Uffe A: Is this variant of screw also available for screwing into underlying gypsum boards https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/f%C3%A4stdon/skruv/gipsskruv/gipsskruv-p-screw-gips-mot-gips
ravve007: We are plastering our brick wall with the following layers: 1. Finja "Grundningsbruk A" 2. Finja "Puts & Murbruk C" 3. Finja "KC Putsbruk C - FIN" 0-1mm 4. Paint with silicate paint We wish to have a fine surface finish, not rough, and have the following considerations: - Can we use a pigmented spray plaster and skip steps 3 and 4 above? I'm thinking of "Finja Stänkputs KC 0-1mm". It's important
HKJ: We are going to lay a massive spruce floor in a newly built house with underfloor heating. We don't have a concrete slab but instead a crawl space from Isolergrund, which is an insulated, heated crawl space with negative pressure (as it is ventilated by the exhaust air heat pump). The air in the crawl space is drawn down from the house above through the floor joists and out through the regular
neo11: 3 mm c mortar. Not gypsum mortar as it cannot handle moisture in any form. The upper image maybe silicate, as it looks unpainted. The lower one, paint with whatever you want, you still have to paint the entire wall, and you cannot paint silicate on plastic paint or whatever it is.
johnhenriksson: [citat] I know this was a long time ago but how did you solve it? I have exactly this problem on a shed/storage that is 3x5m.
Draven: Hi, I'm building a small pool/spa and need tips on how to get nice grout lines on the steps in the pool. It's about the outer edge of each step, where I leave about 3mm horizontally and vertically; the grout there should have a rounded look.
Höghus: [citat] I found an excellent use for composite decking. I attached a level sensor for the drainage pump to one and sent it down into the collection well. /Höghus [bild]
SomePenguin: Update: The solution was a round borehole for 75mm pipes and then 22mm plywood that was glue-screwed on both sides of the beams. There is a load-bearing wall on the floor below, so the beam span is probably "only" 3m.
FixarLars: Taping the cut was a good tip! I'll check out Fein, I've been wanting a small fine-toothed blade, but I can't find such tools. I suggested to my wife to put a stone slab there, like we have in front of the fireplace, but she didn't like that.
PatrikErikssonThorell: I am renovating our basement in a house from the 50s. Step one was to tear out framed walls that were directly attached to the concrete with wooden studs. In one of the rooms, the radiator was attached to the newly built interior wall. We unscrewed it from the wall and managed to demolish behind it. Now it's propped up on a few miscellaneous items and leaning against the wall. My hope is to be
Düsseldorff: You can use newspaper or makulatur. Tear a suitably sized piece with rough edges. Adhere the paper with wallpaper paste and let it dry. Then paint the repair with oil paint and let it dry. Then paint the entire ceiling.
golvlaggaren: A question that may be difficult to answer based on a floor plan, but worth a try as we will gain access to the house in a week. The wall circled is the one where we want to open a door opening, about 140cm. My first thought was that it was load-bearing, but then I realized that the pine floor (old subfloor) on the upper floor is laid in the direction the arrow shows in image 2. Then the beams
holmberg87: Took a picture of the wall today, a number of years later. It may be hard to see the color, but it has changed and for the better; it really matches what I was looking for [bild]
Niklaspe: Thank you for your help, one last question. Is this screw sufficient to fasten it together?: https://www.byggmax.se/träskruv-c4-60x180-p249681 Or should I go straight for buying this type: https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/fästdon/skruv/träskruv-utvändigt/träskruv-topkon-hex
poppe12: Hello, I need a wind barrier for my house that doesn't have a moisture barrier. It will get extra insulation (träull) so I want the wind barrier to have low resistance to vapor. The one I used previously had a woolly backside where vapor condensed and a plastic front that was hydrophobic and repelled vapor. It worked a bit like a micro-pump and at the same time was protective like a tarp when it
ravve007: We want to put it in the basement, on an uninsulated concrete slab. The total floor area is around 90 sqm distributed across different rooms. Of course, it's best with mechanically ventilated, but how do you really know if you can manage with a passive (non-mechanical) one? I find this very difficult...
Demmpa: Could be that they threw the last bit there after they cast the slab.
justusandersson: If it is a partition wall in an apartment building, the core should be brick, unless it's a smaller house with a few apartments. Then it could be a plank wall. You can exclude lightweight concrete as well as chipboard and plasterboard (unless used as wall covering in recent times). A brick wall should be plastered on the inside (without reed matting) but may possibly have some form of wood
A-Man_08: That looks like a drainage pipe, do you have a bathroom on the floor above? If not, it might go up to the ventilation on the roof.
Kri113: Hello, I recently moved to a two-story house with a basement that has some fixing up needed. The previous owner tore out all the raised floors in the basement and laid tiles with underfloor heating in three bedrooms connected to newly installed geothermal heating. When we moved in, there was a musty smell throughout the basement, but the smell disappeared when I turned off the underfloor heating.
kattparet: [citat] If I am being particular, the dimensions are rather 65 x 75 mm, +/- a few mm.
Oldboy: Aha, that seems logical. There are plenty of tar preparations for horses for the same purpose. Tar from beech, that was also new. I thought it was only pine and spruce used for making tar. Great start to the day. I've learned two new things! :) Then perhaps it could be a problem if there are normally no people near the house. On the other hand, what can the wild boars do? Root up the garden if it
ati: Salt/lime deposits, completely normal, just wash off with water and a brush
