Building Materials and Construction Technology
Düsseldorff: You can use newspaper or makulatur. Tear a suitably sized piece with rough edges. Adhere the paper with wallpaper paste and let it dry. Then paint the repair with oil paint and let it dry. Then paint the entire ceiling.
golvlaggaren: A question that may be difficult to answer based on a floor plan, but worth a try as we will gain access to the house in a week. The wall circled is the one where we want to open a door opening, about 140cm. My first thought was that it was load-bearing, but then I realized that the pine floor (old subfloor) on the upper floor is laid in the direction the arrow shows in image 2. Then the beams
holmberg87: Took a picture of the wall today, a number of years later. It may be hard to see the color, but it has changed and for the better; it really matches what I was looking for [bild]
Niklaspe: Thank you for your help, one last question. Is this screw sufficient to fasten it together?: https://www.byggmax.se/träskruv-c4-60x180-p249681 Or should I go straight for buying this type: https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/fästdon/skruv/träskruv-utvändigt/träskruv-topkon-hex
poppe12: Hello, I need a wind barrier for my house that doesn't have a moisture barrier. It will get extra insulation (träull) so I want the wind barrier to have low resistance to vapor. The one I used previously had a woolly backside where vapor condensed and a plastic front that was hydrophobic and repelled vapor. It worked a bit like a micro-pump and at the same time was protective like a tarp when it
ravve007: We want to put it in the basement, on an uninsulated concrete slab. The total floor area is around 90 sqm distributed across different rooms. Of course, it's best with mechanically ventilated, but how do you really know if you can manage with a passive (non-mechanical) one? I find this very difficult...
Demmpa: Could be that they threw the last bit there after they cast the slab.
justusandersson: If it is a partition wall in an apartment building, the core should be brick, unless it's a smaller house with a few apartments. Then it could be a plank wall. You can exclude lightweight concrete as well as chipboard and plasterboard (unless used as wall covering in recent times). A brick wall should be plastered on the inside (without reed matting) but may possibly have some form of wood
A-Man_08: That looks like a drainage pipe, do you have a bathroom on the floor above? If not, it might go up to the ventilation on the roof.
Kri113: Hello, I recently moved to a two-story house with a basement that has some fixing up needed. The previous owner tore out all the raised floors in the basement and laid tiles with underfloor heating in three bedrooms connected to newly installed geothermal heating. When we moved in, there was a musty smell throughout the basement, but the smell disappeared when I turned off the underfloor heating.
kattparet: [citat] If I am being particular, the dimensions are rather 65 x 75 mm, +/- a few mm.
Oldboy: Aha, that seems logical. There are plenty of tar preparations for horses for the same purpose. Tar from beech, that was also new. I thought it was only pine and spruce used for making tar. Great start to the day. I've learned two new things! :) Then perhaps it could be a problem if there are normally no people near the house. On the other hand, what can the wild boars do? Root up the garden if it
ati: Salt/lime deposits, completely normal, just wash off with water and a brush
WilliamN: Hello, I have a house where I want to open up a part of a load-bearing wall and would like some input on whether the construction can handle it and suggestions for a good solution. It is a semi-detached house on two floors built in the year 2000. In the wall where the opening will be made, there is a wall approximately 3.7 m with a doorway and then there is an open part about 3 m with a pillar.
wawerider: [citat] Make a frame around the hole which then compensates for "the joint in the middle" with wood or steel around it, making it much stronger, and the horizontal reinforcements you can make longer on the outside and inside at the top and bottom. But I'm not a carpenter, so I don't know anything about professional implementation in the wood industry, so this is just an idea.
Åsa Lund: Make your own proposal for an answer and then someone here can probably help to "correct" it. However, I don't think anyone will do your homework for you.
useless: Polystyrene is commonly used under concrete floors. Otherwise, I haven't heard it's particularly common in floors. There are solutions where additional insulation and moisture protection are applied to the existing floor structure by gluing a layer of polystyrene to the underside of the subfloor. The biggest problem with polystyrene in the floor structure is, as mentioned, that the sheets are
Jonatan79: 45x45mm studs on the wall with cc60cm is also good, in the ceiling better with a width of 70mm for easier attachment of the ceiling.
Beetleboy: I am renovating an outbuilding where I need to have a floor drain in the middle of the floor. The surface will be tile. The concrete floor there is incredibly uneven, probably poured completely by hand ages ago. Additionally, the ceiling isn't very high, so I don't want to build too much height. The floor area is 25 m2. [bild] I'm not keen on tearing up the entire floor and pouring new concrete;
NoOne2k: With aerated concrete screws, there should not be any problems. The question is just how far apart the attachment points are? That is probably why a board is mounted at the bottom, screwed more densely into the lecablocks than there are attachment points in the steel frame.
justusandersson: What a small world! I actually guessed 150, so my calculation is quite accurate.
Mattias_Jo1: [citat] Yes, that would have been best, but there are a few things that complicate it. I'm going to fix the entire floor eventually, but whether it will be next year or in 2 years, I don't know. It's a larger project overall. This will be a partial project and I'll remove it when I pour the entire floor.
Whitehorse: [citat] It's gone now, the house is still standing! There will be a trellis with some sturdy corners before winter :)
Pilgrimen: Hello, I am in the process of building a greenhouse where we plan to construct a base of lightweight concrete on the outside and partially on the inside to create a U-shaped planting area indoors. It turned out that I got a bunch of lightweight concrete blocks from xella (I believe it's the Ytong block) and plan to use them. Now that it's time to start laying them, I realized it might not be the
steve5432: By chance, I just found a page that explains in a pretty sensible and understandable way how to proceed, I've googled for hours before but haven't seen any clear example. Our Gazebo | Construction and DIY projects | Forums - Thehomesteadingboards.com Maybe someone else besides me will benefit from this.. /S
Snickarkirre: I think it could go well together with round on the stairs and then the other on the railing. It would probably look best to use the same one. But round that connects all the way from the stairs up to the railing would likely need to be custom-made and then the price might increase. Then I agree with you that it would look odd with holders on the railing. Maybe it's best to use the one that is
En liten stuga: [citat] It's still pretty obvious...