Building Materials and Construction Technology
FritidshusetSmåland: Hello, Interesting thread and it's a shame you haven't received any answers. I have the exact same problem in my summer cottage I bought. I recognize a particular smell when I go inside (possibly a very faint scent). However, when I go outside, I feel a scent in my nose. Friends say it smells but not like mold. Had a specialist from a moisture company who mentioned the same thing you're getting
kelegris: Now the walls are coming down anyway. Can anyone give me tips as an inexperienced demolisher on what to do at the ceiling and walls? This is how it looks right now: [bild] At the ceiling: [bild] At the wall: [bild] [bild] The wall was built before it was plastered, so how do I proceed with the least amount of effort?
Werno: Great, thanks! We have a bit of leeway with that weight, so we should be on the safe side. The fittings are special for that kind of suspension, so they should get the job done, I think.
marcusL79: I thought I'd share an audio clip of the result. I set the kitchen fan to max, the water from the tap is running full blast, and my wife is rattling in the cutlery drawer while I open and close the bedroom door. It ended up being 45mm rock wool, OSB, double plasterboard (staggered joints) on the bedroom side, sealed joints along the ceiling, floor, and corners with latex sealant. Also, a 35db
Adamrenoverar: Yes, I'm uncertain about the construction of the slab under the house. At the same height as the house and extending as far out as the stairs, it is concrete (see the gray area in the image), but do you think the concrete goes all the way down to the bottom of the stairs, that is, to the bottom of the crawlspace? How can this be most easily drained without having to break away several cubic
Derbyboy: When applying filler 0-10 mm on floor particle board to level it out, won't there just be crumbs left over time where you apply 1-2 mm? Is it perhaps not a problem if you're going to lay vinyl click or laminate?
JimPern: [citat] Thanks for the post... that's probably what I'll do.
Illearne: In that case, use gran, it handles the lake better. tall can work if it is really fat (resin)
Cquencer: [citat] It's a regular anchor screw. C4 I think. Buy at Byggmax, Bauhaus, or Biltema; can't remember.
justusandersson: I can't read the drawing thumbnails on the first image. The resolution is too poor. I would also need to see a section of the house to understand the context. But it might not be necessary. It's a solid beam. The deflection will be max L/435, i.e., 13.8 mm. Which is little in relation to the span. The columns are also sufficient. The load per column will be under 30 kN. No harm in using a third
lellef: [citat] I usually run a little water from the garden hose while I'm cutting to avoid the dust. Note that I use a battery-powered cutter!
Derbyboy: Would it be possible to use self-leveling compound on those kinds of dips? I don't want to apply more than necessary, and in some places, the layer will only be 1mm. Won't it crack when the house shifts or when you walk on such a thin layer?
Skalbolaget: New roof, bird protection? How to use, over or under the foot batten?
Sodavatten: I was planning to install a rotating ceiling fan weighing 7 kg in the bedroom. The ceiling is plasterboard with 50 mm studs in bent steel profile. How do I mount the fan in a good and safe way?
Zannapanna: I live in a condominium, brick building. There are some settlement cracks in the building, which became evident when I skim-coated the walls and the cracks clearly appeared (there was previously 50-layer wallpaper). Now I've scraped off what I filled on the wall and chipped away the settlement cracks to fill them with new mortar. But despite this, it still cracks. Can I seal it when I prime the
Anonymiserad 433451: Polygrip works fine as well... Or an impact wrench... It can knock the screw loose from the crooked thread... if that's the case...
HaBy01: Building a new house (in the Västerbotten mountains) and it turns out that the carpenters didn't install any insect mesh behind the soffit since the insect mesh was delayed. Something to be worried about? Remove the soffit and install it (and nail new boards)? Or should I just let it go?
Voh: Hello! Unfortunately, it ended up with a bunch of other projects instead. Many pleasant evenings have happened, but not around the fireplace that never came to be. 1. I don't know, it's very unclear. I think it depends on how skilled you are at arguing if the question arises. But aside from loopholes, I actually think it's needed. However, I wouldn't have applied. 2. Better to ask than not to ask
Tovin: I'm also contemplating this issue with the air gap on the gable sides. Building an Attefall house. The front and back are not a problem just as TS writes. But what do you do on the short sides/gables? Do you skip the opening at the top?
nero_pelleman: I have an outbuilding with stone tiles on an earth floor where I want to have laminate flooring (instead of or on top). I use it as a woodworking shop, so a stone floor is very impractical (and dark). Is it enough to use a platon membrane on the stone tiles and then laminate flooring directly? Or is it better to lay a plastic mat? Anything else I should consider?
Hannahkansson: Hi, I'm also curious about how things went with your eaves. I'm just about to build a house and need to decide what we're going to do with the eaves right now. :)
patrik-k: It has gone well. Looks like when I put them up.
raveper: It is easily worth 7-8 thousand for real steps. It becomes really good right away.
Fixarfia: On parts of the building of a Skånegård, the stones in the foundation are visible from the outside (as it was originally) while other parts have been covered with plaster or something else (it hasn't been examined yet what the material is). This was probably done in the 60s. It looks fairly intact. Is it good or bad that the stones have been covered from a moisture perspective, or should they
Snickarkirre: Hello! You can indeed add it, but there will be a cavity under the parquet when you remove the metal stair nose strip that you need to shim/fill. But go to a rental company and rent a handheld carpet stripper, and you'll have those last steps done in under an hour. Unless you're already finished ;)
InsidersUnited: To Ts: if you don't have the energy to replace the pappen, you can go over all the nail heads with a bit of roof adhesive or roof sealant on each head. There are a lot, but your roof is small.
Tompafix: The roof trusses should be placed at cc 1200. So you should be able to attach the rule to them. You can probably access the space from the attic if you want to add something more to screw into. You will likely need to route the electricity that way if you don't want to tear down the ceiling.
prototypen: There will be 200 mm of foam plastic and the same amount of new concrete. Today's houses are built on 300 mm of foam plastic.