In two places I have a local water damage on laminate parquet, see image, now I want to remove the worst parts and install new ones. How do I do this best? Is there a "miniature circular saw" or another special tool to cut out the damaged piece with? I have considered screwing on a piece of plywood and attaching a board as a stop for a suitable circular saw, so I can cut out neatly. Better suggestions? Damaged parquet flooring with visible water damage and gaps, showing areas in need of repair and replacement with nearby wooden strips.
 
It's a bit problematic that the damaged area is so large. It's a bit difficult to make it look good then. You cut around the damaged part. Usually, you cut 6 mm deep. This depends on how thick the parquet is and how thick the wear layer is. The principle is the same. Then you need to drill with a 13 mm drill. Then you use a hand router with a milling cutter, which you set down to the same depth you sawed and mill off the surface to be replaced. Then you take similar parquet from which you saw out material that should fit into the resulting hole. If there are margins, I would, in addition to gluing with winter glue, also drill a few holes for 8 mm dowels to set between the new part that should go in and the substrate. I would do the intervention per plank. So in this case, per 3/4 strip. Don't forget to put weight on it for at least a couple of days afterwards so that the glue has time to bind properly.
 
Silver78 Silver78 said:
It is somewhat problematic that there is such a large area that is damaged. It's a bit difficult to make it look nice. You cut around the damaged part. Usually, you take 6 mm deep. This depends on how thick the parquet is and how thick the wear layer is. The principle is the same. Then drill with a 13 mm bit. Then you use a hand router with a routing bit that you set down to the same depth you sawed and mill off the area to be replaced. Then take similar parquet from which you cut material that should fit into the resulting hole. If there are margins, in addition to gluing with winter glue, I would drill some holes for 8 mm dowels to place between the new piece and the substrate. I would do the operation per board. So in this case, per three-quarter stave. Don't forget to apply weight for at least a couple of days afterward so the glue can set properly.
Thanks for the description! The parquet is a total of 14 or 15 mm thick in three layers, so about 5 mm in the top layer. I was thinking of replacing the entire thickness, and the issue is how to make neat cuts when cutting out, especially across the fibers in the top layer. With a hand router, the corners would be rounded? Yes, you could round the corners of the piece being inset, something to consider. I've been suggested a chisel, thought about a Dremel with a thin saw blade but it might be difficult to cut straight. A small back saw is also an option but even there the guidance isn't easy.
 
The last piece you can't reach with the router, you should take with a chisel. What you cut out, you can take with a plunge saw, or alternatively by freehand with a circular saw with the help of a board that you screw into the part you intend to replace. If you tape what you're going to saw, the cut will be neater. However, the blade must be good.
 
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FixarLars
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Düsseldorff
Fein with deep impact.
 
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FixarLars
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Saw out a rectangle in front of the door and lay tiles there instead. I've seen this variant in a rental apartment where it wasn't worth replacing the entire floor. And that way, you avoid it getting damaged there again in the future.
 
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Kerstin Grundström and 3 others
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Taping the cut was a good tip!
I'll check out Fein, I've been wanting a small fine-toothed blade, but I can't find such tools. I suggested to my wife to put a stone slab there, like we have in front of the fireplace, but she didn't like that.
 
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