Building Materials and Construction Technology
bonnielykke: [citat] I am very grateful for your input. I had planned for the wall to come down today, but I think we need to look into it a bit more. I was completely sure it would be aerated concrete under the wallpaper. I also thought about the floor plan since the wall is very thin next to the thick concrete wall. We were actually given the "go" to make a hole in it, as long as we hired professionals.
Allmänobildad: The one you linked to at k-rauta is Moelven and should fit in the grooves on the door frame. Byggmax seems to have a different supplier for smygar.
FRS05: Hi Where have you found small cable grommets for your desks? If you have any. I have found some on Amazon but was wondering if they are sold in any common Swedish stores? These 60-80mm cable grommets are something many people have. But for example, I have a couple of computer speakers where I want to pull the cables down right by the speakers, so I want something small and convenient. It should
GHGH: I did exactly that a year ago with the help of a friend who was convincing in saying "it's fine, it will be okay". I haven't seen any signs of problems yet (but 1 year isn't that long either..)
Fundersam99: [citat] how did it go, are the hats sitting well? By the way, how did you get the hats straight?
Orientexpressen: I don't think there are any pipes or electrical wires back there except for what should be there. They probably just put all the debris there to fill out the space or they didn't know what to do with everything. It's strange. Contact the building committee, they might have blueprints of the house. You can also measure the outside and then the inside and see if there is a significant difference.
Marcussjogren: Sho Sugi Ban is really nothing unique either; in Sweden, we have been burning posts that are meant to be in the ground for hundreds of years, and it holds up very well against its environmental impact. However, for the burning to be effective, it requires that you really burn the outer 5-10mm thoroughly so that it is charred. Just burning and brushing it for appearance's sake, I believe, only has
Nygge72: [citat] You have to place them as close as possible, or even possibly better placed than the old ones.
ajn82: [citat] It's a bit like a half I-beam simply, I might consider it, it would be useful as a setup for building monkey bars on the ceiling later as well. Thanks for the glue tip! The original problem was really that I wanted to be able to hang bags from the ceiling, and instead of building a set of completely parallel beams with existing rafters, it seemed wiser to screw them together, but
Freniño: [citat] Thanks for the answer, that sounds good! Why is that? Not questioning, just curious.
tbgbg: Bumping the thread. Is it just to go ahead despite potential radiator pipes or do I need to do something special?
Myran63: [ [citat] . Thanks! I now see that what you're writing about the trim seems to be correct. I'll try your tip and hopefully, I can just replace the trim. QUOTE="Bernieberg, post: 4333450, member: 152021"]It looks like there is a trim on the edge of the step. When the step moves due to variations in humidity and becomes narrower, it puts a lot of stress on the trim because it can't follow along. I
Loftet: Hello. I have a post-war barn in top condition. It hasn't been in use since the 1950s. I intend to build a bathroom next to the stable, that is, part of the carriage shed. I already have beams, framework, and insulation ready for the floor, considering heavy tiles and ceramics. I won't be constructing the walls myself but I want to be well-informed about the construction before I hire help. I
Hus tomte: [citat] as I suspected... Just need to find a structural engineer or building technician thanks for the help
Mmmmmm: [citat] I've mostly used steel beams previously and have no experience with glulam, but it's never too late to learn. Thanks for the advice!
Snickarkirre: If it draws well in the osbn, you don't need to remove the plaster first. Should work fine (y)
neo11: [citat] But I agree with Claes, it's safest not to paint.
Lankent: [citat] [citat] ok, we'll simply keep a dialogue with the construction guys to see how it develops. Thanks for the answer! // M
KVC: But if we choose to install foam plastic, is it just a matter of cutting and filling in where they have chiseled? How do you handle it around the floor drain?
Eken1992: Trying to clarify whether I should install a vapor barrier on the subfloor before laying the parquet, it seems there are varying opinions on this. The house was built in 1977 with a crawl space, subfloor, and insulated beams. Previously, parquet was laid directly on the insulated beams without a vapor barrier, but now during renovations, I've read that it probably should be there, for example
Robert Farmer: Hi. I want to reinstall a wall that existed before to create a room. However, you can see against one wall that there was a kattvind (there is one on the other side, in the other room). Here you can see that they cut a large part of the wall. According to old drawings, it seems they had a closet. In one of the pictures, I have cut out a part of the wall to show the original standing boards. My
co89: Thank you for your responses! Interesting.. It seems like the facade is something in between then. The inspector hasn't found any leaks and therefore only noted it as a "risk." But still warns of a risky construction from a moisture perspective since the underlying board is made of organic material and the air gap is closed. Could it be an idea to open up the air gap at the bottom, install an
Bernieberg: If it's only the beam itself that needs to be supported, the loads will be modest and maybe this one will work? [bild] https://www.byggmax.se/stolpfundament-golv-96-jabo-svart-p683455?gclid=CjwKCAjw0qOIBhBhEiwAyvVcf6i82siji9-UNkEbCNMXxF9c7i-6nyS-zwSDmUXfORLkbLhHzUekoBoC1ZsQAvD_BwE#1005=43757
SoldF99: Currently have three rooms next to each other and considering turning them into two larger ones. According to the drawing, there is a support wall that probably runs between two of the rooms. Can the rest of the wall be demolished and the support wall remain? Or am I completely off track?
Wallawhoa: Starting to waver on my foundation, anyone have tips on how to level the panel flush with a slab-on-grade foundation?
Ironside: Visited a slightly more "exclusive" hardware store (Optimera) in town. They're often quite a bit more expensive, but they usually have more suitable items. They didn't have any with straight grooves, but I found this: [bild] These are still 10x120 screws even though they look a bit thinner. The big advantage is that the heads are large, so no washers are needed, and they don't protrude as much.
Höghus: Consulted the chimney sweep who thought gypsum plaster was excellent. /Höghus