Building Materials and Construction Technology
Nicro: It is one of those. https://www.fast-fastening.com/BisonPictures/Extended_Web/51/288151.jpg Pull it towards you so that the plug grips the back of the drywall and try to unscrew it. If that doesn't work, cut the screw off.
FreQa: [citat] Another solution could be to use a square metal rod and glue it in place. In my sauna, I've had to tighten the knobs as the wooden blocks dry over time, so now they don't sit parallel.
PNO: Oh no. The long goods fee was new to me. Rinkaby has previously been a reliable source for steel pipes at a decent price when they had a flat fee for orders and shipping, regardless of what you ordered. But any forging company should be able to sell a pipe piece at a decent price, right? Steel wholesalers usually have a fee for small orders, which is quite unfortunate if you're buying under
Matti_75: Depends on whether you were told to water afterwards or if they were supposed to take care of the aftercare.
Christian LeBygg: Sounds good! We have placed a plank and at the end, we set a concrete well, approximately 160x40 cm, as a foundation. We've embedded it about 10 cm into the bottom and then filled it with stones before laying the plank on top. It will be interesting to see if the ice manages to move it. I'm considering filling up with simpler stone caskets in connection to the piles that are inside the well but
TheJesper: Thanks for all the tips! Found one located on Hisingen in Gothenburg, bought by CALEXICO WOOD AB, picked up at Fredricsons trä. Offered: 1015025171 Mdf 25x2440x1220 V313 Fibrapan green core 1 PC 943 SEK incl. VAT M2 CALEXICO WOOD AB But I needed thickness 22, so then there was only a gigantic board... f-1015022163 Mdf 22x2440x2100 V313 [bild] It went well over the Älvsborg Bridge with some
Bygg_pojken: Reasonable. Thanks for the help! It will probably be a bit too much work to drill four holes per angle and use 4-5 angles. It will probably be easier to use one of the other solutions. Thanks for all the answers!
Wilhelm T: [citat] Thanks and bow for that answer. I will check with the municipality to see if there are any drawings; otherwise, it's probably safest to leave this as an "arch."
cdt: Well, I actually don't know how to reason about that. I have also considered having an air-source heat pump later solely for cooling, so it will be interesting if someone can answer that.
Semiproffset: I also want to build something similar. It would be fun if you uploaded the pictures. =)
RobbanGBG: An alternative might be to nail-glue together two regular 45x220 C24 studs to create a stud that should at least be comparably strong to the old 75x225 studs. Hmm relatively cheap compared to glulam it would be as well...
fosi: [citat] The idea is to paint the stairs, I'll talk to a company that can point me in the right direction - but now I feel that it's possible anyway. Thanks for the help.
Viktor.J: [citat] But the chimney sweep should still inspect at regular intervals, right?
TomTheodor: Hello I was going to put up a coat rack in the hallway (gypsum wall) but happened to drill one of the holes a little wrong, so now it's not possible to fasten all the screws. I need to move one of the lower holes about 0.5-1 centimeter upward for all the Molly plugs to fit. Is there a way to do this (spackle or something harder) or do I have to make four new holes? //Tom
Mackan C: Hi, great, many thanks for taking the time to respond Peter! Best regards, //Marcus
Hus tomte: [citat] Same exact house as the first post but since '82 and the same type of wall I was thinking of tearing down.. that's why I joined this thread:p but I'll start another thread as well
frejoh86: Hello, We are in the process of replacing the siding on the house and garage, and eventually, we plan to better match the roofs of the buildings. I would like to hear your thoughts on the load-bearing capacity of this W-construction. Currently, there is only tar paper, and the scenarios we are considering are tile/concrete/seamed metal. The worst-case scenario also adds solar panels on the south
Jonathan Amédro: [citat] It's not a basement and the wall is built with ciporex panels.
Jonatan79: Yes, OSB or plyfa, are wood panels commonly used on the outside of studs, with insulation in between of course.
sinuslinus: [citat] It's good that it didn't end up being MDF no matter how well-painted it would have been. Organic material in direct connection to the shower is a big risk for problems.
AndersS: Rip with a Japanese saw with a rip side and 4 meters is no problem. If it needs to fit against a wall and then the crown molding, it doesn't take more than 5-10 minutes. Much focus will be on machines. :cool: and forget the regular handsaw because it is made for crosscutting. ;)
useless: Which part of the door hits the threshold? Is the door leaf crooked in relation to the frame?
enstorstark: Hi! I'm considering how to build a railing for an old concrete staircase. There are 3 existing holes and I'm wondering if I can fill them with concrete and attach a base for the post and build the railing that way, in wood. The existing one doesn't really fit. But I was thinking of doing something that I can manage myself :). [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild]
Singenjören89: Now I've dug test pits once more to better understand the ground, but I feel rather more confused about which foundation method is most suitable. With the new tests, the depth seems to be around 2-2.5 meters over the entire 171 m2 of the house. With some leveling, I estimate the deposit need to almost 600 m3 and the fill requirement (with different fractions) about the same. [bild] Based on two
Hus tomte: I will contact him right away to see what he thinks. Thanks and bows (y)
Kallebo: Thank you so much for your answers! I will investigate the volumetric weight tomorrow. We'll see how much eave overhang I can arrange, but I can try to place a proper drip plate under the glass. An acquaintance suggested that I lacquer them on the outside to improve drainage even further. Maybe boiled linseed oil...
bonnielykke: [citat] I am very grateful for your input. I had planned for the wall to come down today, but I think we need to look into it a bit more. I was completely sure it would be aerated concrete under the wallpaper. I also thought about the floor plan since the wall is very thin next to the thick concrete wall. We were actually given the "go" to make a hole in it, as long as we hired professionals.
Allmänobildad: The one you linked to at k-rauta is Moelven and should fit in the grooves on the door frame. Byggmax seems to have a different supplier for smygar.