Hi!
I'm getting really frustrated with this. How do I keep the panel standing about 10-20mm from the foundation/edge beam while maintaining ventilation?
Any tips on how to solve this effectively?

The reason is that I strongly dislike long protrusions of the panel visually.

Diagram showing two wall section alternatives with labeled components: 1) Spacer 8mm, 2) Nailed batten, 3) Wind protection board, 4) Drip edge, 5) Foundation beam, 6) Vertical cladding.
1. Spacer 8mm
2. Nail batten 28-34x70
3. Wind board "Wood fiber"
4. Drip strip
5. Albabalk
6. Vertical exterior panel, Batten "painted with slam color"

Thank you very much!
 
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There will also be a dropdown list at the bottom edge of the panel.
 
Too little offset also looks very funny in my eyes. Anything under around 5cm will look okay, measured from the front edge of the panel. It feels like alternative two is simpler in that case. Spikläkt + panel should be 43mm.
 
Okarlsson Okarlsson said:
Too little overhang also looks very strange in my eyes. Anything under about 5cm will look okay, measured from the front edge of the panel. It feels like the second option is simpler in that case. Battens + panel should be 43mm
Thanks for the response! Underpanel + Lockläkt is at least 44mm

With a nail rule of 34mm, the outside of Lockläkt ends up a whole 86mm from the foundation.

This is to be built near other older buildings where the panel aligns vertically with a torpargrund.

The second option works, maybe I can add plaster 15-30mm on the edge beam?
 
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W Wallawhoa said:
Thanks for the reply! Underpanel + Lockläkt is at least 44mm

With a nail rule of 34, the outside Lockläkt ends up a full 86mm from the base.

This will be built in proximity to other older buildings where the panel is aligned vertically with a crawl space foundation.

Option two works, perhaps you can apply plaster 15-30mm on the edge beam?
What paneling are you planning to use? With a thin Lockläkt, it won't be perceived as "the wall."
 
  • Red wooden facade with two white-framed windows and a green bench beneath, displaying classic lock board paneling style.
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If you have a classic lockläkt, there are gaps between the underpanel boards, so you probably don't need the 8 mm spacing (1) under the nailing rule; the air circulates anyway. There, you gain 8 mm (and work, time, and money),
 
B b8q said:
If you have a classic wood batten, there are gaps between the under panel boards, then you hardly need the 8 mm spacer (1) under the nailing rule; the air circulates anyway. You'll save 8 mm (and work, time, and money) there,
Thanks for the response! I think so too, especially with slamfärg. But I would like to have the foundation extend to at least the back edge of the drip list on the panel.
 
Possible that the XN-villa has gone with option 2 and additionally placed a baseboard on top of the base to extend it further?
 
B b8q said:
Possible that the XN-villa used option 2 and also attached a baseboard above the plinth to extend it?
Yes, hard to see, with the recesses in the drip edge and the nail line above. Probably a foam board they've glued on.

So I assume they've screwed the drip edge directly into the framework. Still don't understand why it isn't screwed at the bottom edge of the panel and why they've left a gap to the panel.

It should be like asking for trouble with water there.
 
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W Wallawhoa said:
Yes, hard to see, with the recesses in the drop strip and the nail row above. Probably a foam board they've glued on

So I guess they've screwed the drop strip directly into the frame. Still don't understand why it's not screwed into the bottom edge of the panel and why they've left a gap to the panel.

Seems like asking for water problems there
Now I think the problem is solved in a way I like! I'll show a sketch later for anyone thinking along similar lines.
 
Sketch of construction detail showing cell glass insulation slab with numbered components, labeled "Alternativ 2".

The solution will be a sawed cellular glass board that is polished on the outside. It probably would have worked well with cellular plastic too, but I prefer glass for several reasons.
I am removing the spacers behind the nail batten, considering that it is slam paint. Otherwise, there should be spacers more than 8mm

Perhaps worth mentioning that the insulation in the slab consists of 500mm foam glass, so it feels good with a glass board on the exterior.

Thanks, everyone!
 
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EddieHansson
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Starting to waver on my foundation, anyone have tips on how to level the panel flush with a slab-on-grade foundation?
 
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