Building Materials and Construction Technology
TjabbaTjena: Hello! I tore out the floor with plastic against concrete and walls with wooden studs and insulation about six months ago in the den in our basement. All the other rooms in the basement have elevated floors and plastered walls, except in the den. Here, it's bare unpainted concrete on the floor and concrete block walls. Now to the problem. I have cleaned thoroughly several times, tried
Andreas Ludde Lundell: [citat] Thanks for the info, probably no problem changing to 95 rules but can't you switch the 12mm chipboard for an 18 panel instead, or do you need to install both chipboard and panel to meet EI30? Or is it better to go with 70mm insulation + chipboard + panel?
anders07: The best thing is to plaster the walls and then paint with a diffusion-open paint. Using studs and laying panel material might mean that you're trapping moisture, which will eventually lead to microbial growth (mold). If you don't drain and insulate from outside, I wouldn't put panels on the walls and would simply plaster them instead. You could also build/buy a Nivell system (or a variant) with
Dublin: [citat] Well, with a teenage daughter at home, I've learned the hard way that eyebrow dye doesn't come off the new fine cast marble sink :thinking:. However, real porcelain is probably resistant to most things, I think...
toolman77: then you can extend in the same way I have done and cast around the new irons
stefan_steffansson: Some feedback for myself and those interested in casting walls with patterned sides. Nova Betonggolv offers single-use matrices (and also matrices for patterned concrete that can be reused) >> link HydraTec also offers the same matrices as Ahlsell (brand Valero, see post above). These matrices can be used multiple times under certain conditions >> link //S
Teddeby: [citat] [citat] Thanks, I'll try with bolts.
injonil: I think I understand how it works now! The lateral forces are absorbed by the staircase's attachments to the foundation and the platform/posts. Have I got that right?
anders07: Stylish! Just washing the stuff with water is enough
NoOne2k: I would have gone for 50mm or 63mm PEM pipe in the ground and PVC above ground. The main reason to choose PEM is the cost. If you buy PEM pipe in a roll, it tends to want to curve a bit, so it's neater with PVC pipes where the pipe is visible. I would assume that glued PVC joints are cheaper than PEM fittings. There is PEM pipe available in straight 6m lengths, but it's a bit less common.
stigdaniel: Thanks for the tip! I did get a response in the thread two years ago, but you deserve praise for finding the thread.
jonaserik: Styrofoam directly in water is not good, they will sink in a couple of years, or be crushed by ice. Glue them together with PL 200 which does not have acetone in it, a larger chunk of PL 400 almost eats through 1 meter of Styrofoam.
Pelletompa: [citat] [citat] Hi, I have bought Byggmax fiber cement board for the foundation but wonder which side should be facing down. The "shinier" with print or the "rougher"? Tomas
Johan Gunverth: Autosol and aluminum create a black oxide sludge that can be tricky to remove. It also tends to get permanently stuck in the polish. Try using a green Scotch-Brite and a little water first.
Myrkebab: [citat] No. But replace it with a hook with a wood thread. It will definitely hold for heavier things.
Turbo123: Hmm 73 have read but not a single one has anything to say
Violina: Yes, eternit Use some form of respiratory protection and overalls Needs to be packaged well and labeled when it is to be dropped off at the tip.
justusandersson: I think it's a problem that industry regulations are being confused with the building code (BBR). The latter has two requirements for wet rooms: 1 it should not leak water into adjacent spaces, and 2 floor and wall constructions should not be damaged by penetrating water. The industry regulations are designed by companies that want to sell as much tile as possible, even in contexts where it is
Cygnus X-1: In connection with the leakage of rainwater into the crawl space through the vent in the picture (vent a couple of decimeters below ground level), I became concerned about the foam plastic that a previous owner had installed. I removed a few panels... nudged a couple to the left... and suddenly LECA pebbles just FALL from the stones behind. I guess they were placed there to try to raise the
Ussee: Just as a curiosity, it ended up being 45x145 with cc 30 and 23 mm råspont so now I can calmly park the car on the balcony if needed.
Sittställning: [citat] There is plaster c hand, 0-1mm. But you are right, the stone is finer in the sack scrub bag, selected for the color, etc.
KnockOnWood: [citat] Good luck with the rendering! And welcome to the Bygga Hus forum @Li Blom!
meckarn: [citat] This is a bedroom. From what I understand, the building used to be some kind of store. Hence the tiling. Later, it was additionally insulated on top of the tiles. So no, no insulation behind the tiles, just masonry "stones."
TCG: If you attach a fence to the trees, make sure to place a board in between so the fence doesn't rest directly against the tree. Otherwise, the fence will grow into the tree after a few years. Since you mention that the fence will be removed in a few years, this will make it easier. Or if the fence needs to be replaced. If the trees are to be felled at some point, it is also appreciated by the
Thomas Rooth: The threshold iron has rusted significantly, so I have removed it. What type of concrete should be used to repair the edge?
jonaserik: If you attach a 45x45 beam to the wall under the cabinet with 5 slightly stronger screws in the wall (pre-drill using a drill bit with a diameter matching the core of the screw) and drill into the beam to match the thickness of the screw, then the cabinet will rest on it and absorb 95% of the load. The upper fastenings will counteract downward movement and prevent the cabinet from falling out.
marp68: Everything went well in the winter with the installation, and with moldings etc, everything looked nice. But now in the summer, the lower part of the door is rubbing just enough that it won’t close. The problem starts in the bottom few cm. Either the frame or the piece of wood I used to fill the gap has expanded in the heat and higher humidity. Read the thread or see the picture in the previous
GoC: I had Taklist first. Regular crown molding is not particularly high. And thin door casings. But it also seems to be a bit crooked. Why not have the door casings on the sides go all the way up to the crown molding and a thin trim between the wall and the top edge of the frame. Wouldn't it be least strange compared to having a ridiculously small crown molding in the rest of the room?
Harald Blåtumme: The first deck we built was with Biltema's A2 stainless steel, around 2014. No screws have broken, even after removing and reinstalling several decking boards due to work under the deck - no problems at all. The screws left over from that build were what I used this summer for the smaller project. How today's Biltema screws perform, I do not know.