N
No, feel free to use c bruk as it is cheaper.
Why do you think you need hydraulic lime mortar?
But pure lime mortar is not wrong, weber 142, a little softer than c bruk and handles movement better.
Hydraulic is not wrong either, but it wouldn't be the first choice.
 
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lllusion
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N neo11 said:
No, feel free to use c bruk as it is cheaper.
Why do you think you need hydraulic kalkbruk?
Just because that's what I heard at first. But the more I asked, it seemed like it wasn't necessary.
But it is a bit more white than c bruk, right?
 
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Husbusen
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N
So you were planning to clean the entire chimney without painting it?
C mortar with cement is a bit grayer, hydraulic a bit yellow, regular lime mortar is probably the whitest.
But the differences are small, and you almost don't see them unless they are next to each other.
 
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N neo11 said:
So you were planning to finish the entire chimney without painting it?
Yes

C mortar with cement is a bit grayer, hydraulic a bit yellow, regular lime mortar is probably the whitest.
But the differences are small, and you almost don't see them unless they are next to each other.
Then I'll do the simplest. Thanks.
 

Best answer

N
Ok, draw on all bruk with a trowel after you have pre-wetted it thoroughly.
Afterwards, coat the chimney with a large plafond brush for the best appearance.
 
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Peter787 and 1 other
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Why and with what do you choose to paint a plastered chimney?
 
Claes Sörmland
lllusion lllusion said:
Why and with what do you choose to paint a plastered chimney?
If it's plastered with lime mortar, it is white and not painted. That is one reason to use hydraulic lime mortar.

If it's plastered with cement-containing mortar, it is gray and then painted white with limewash or silicate paint. Regarding the latter, be cautious of acrylic content in many products. So the answer is, to make it white and fake lime plaster.
 
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Claes Sörmland
lllusion lllusion said:
Does hydraulic lime mortar need to be applied to the chimney on top of the roof?

So far I have used Render & Masonry Mortar C to repair cracks and even out where parts of the brick have fallen off.
Today, regular mortar is used on chimneys. But if they are to be rendered, make sure they are meshed between the two rendering layers, as it's a very exposed structure and frost damage is common. And it's super important with the construction to protect it against water. A crown in metal or cast concrete is a very good idea.

For older houses with heritage value, continue using lime mortar for repairs just as the original solution. Otherwise, it looks too ghetto and mixing different mortars and applying harder mortar on softer ones is not a good idea outdoors. It will come off.
 
Claes Sörmland Claes Sörmland said:
If it is plastered with cement-containing mortar, it is gray and then it is painted white with limewash or silicate paint. As for the latter, watch out for acrylic content in many products. So the answer is, to make it white and fake lime plaster.
I plastered with cement mortar. Is limewash painted directly on the mortar with a brush?
 
Claes Sörmland
lllusion lllusion said:
I polished with cement mortar. Is lime washing applied directly on the mortar with a brush?
You apply the limewash crosswise with a lime brush. It splatters! Several coats are needed for it to cover. Limewash is essentially just slaked lime in a water suspension.
 
Claes Sörmland Claes Sörmland said:
You apply lime paint crosswise with a lime brush. Splashes! A number of coats are needed for it to cover. Lime paint is really just slaked lime in water suspension.
Should it dry between coats or are several coats needed at the same time to work the lime into the uneven surface?

Does it really stick? I've seen painted lime paint that comes off after a few years. I would rather keep the gray (cement) color than have the lime paint start to peel.
 
Claes Sörmland
lllusion lllusion said:
Should it dry between coats, or is it necessary to apply several coats at the same time to really get the lime into the uneven surface?

Does it actually stick? I've seen painted limewash that peels after a few years. I'd rather keep the gray (cement) color than have the limewash start peeling off.
It should dry between coats so that the carbon dioxide in the air can carbonate the slaked lime. If you apply too much too quickly, it becomes more like a powder sitting on the surface and easily washes away with rain.

If you like the cement look, just leave it that way. Then you'll simply have a gray chimney.
 
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Claes Sörmland Claes Sörmland said:
It should dry between coats so that the carbon dioxide in the air can carbonate the slaked lime. If you apply too much too quickly, it will become more like a powder that sits on the surface and easily washes away with rain.
Thank you!

Claes Sörmland Claes Sörmland said:
If you like the cement look, just leave it like that. Then you simply have a gray chimney.
I'm just wondering if there's a risk of the lime paint peeling off. White is nice but not if it starts coming loose. Does it?
 
N
lllusion lllusion said:
I plastered with cement mortar. Can lime wash be painted directly on the mortar with a brush?
Did you plaster with cement mortar? Which cement mortar A, B, or C?
If you are going to paint it, use weber lime paint 246. If the lead cap on the chimney does not leak, the chimney will stay fresh.
If it leaks, it will look bad after some years.
 
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