Building Materials and Construction Technology
Olofolofolof: Thanks for the great post. The old beams do not sag but are not completely straight. Not the best picture. There's only gravel, no concrete under/between the beams.
Dowser4711: Well, often commercial buildings are constructed with steel, and it's quite feasible to keep them insulated, etc. Usually, it's due to large spans or complex shapes, but of course, you might also do it out of snickar-förakt. :)
yehor: I will install metal studs that will end where the wooden studs are currently cut (they will be removed). They will hang about 30-40 centimeters without being attached to anything. How can I arrange that? I prefer not to use the wall since the ceiling should be floating, and preferably not from the floor above as it may cause problems in the future. **EDIT** I see now that I have a poor title. I
Emil Karlsson: Have the same. Also had to "special order" from the nearest sawmill. Couldn't find such panel to buy, despite quite thorough searches.
Limträpappan: [citat] The designer and I guessed it would be 240 mm brick, it's still a very solid interior wall. So it's two IPE 160 side by side bolted together. Then you should be able to lift them by hand to the 2nd floor. A neighbor was relieving the load-bearing wall when they built a staircase. The whole street was blocked off, and a crane brought in a 3 dm wide monster beam weighing 3/4 ton... I don't
PRonnmark: [citat] Okay, thanks, I'll have to experiment to see if it adheres.
Krille-72: [citat] You're absolutely right. One should really take emissions seriously. It's no fun for those who are truly affected. Now, I don't see any major risk for you. Quite the opposite, actually. The surface is primed. Moisture is added for a short period, if the moisture even reaches the glue. You have an old glue, most likely contact adhesive, which tolerates moisture better than today's
justusandersson: Craftsmen typically do not have the expertise to determine the appropriate dimension of a beam replacing a heart wall. Depending on the truss construction, snow load zone, pitch, etc., the load on the heart wall is likely between 10 and 20 kN/m. In any case, a 90x225 mm glulam beam is insufficient. A significantly stronger beam is required.
Snickarkirre: Hi! Nailing is the easiest and fastest. Rent a Nail Gun. There are really nice battery-powered ones that are perfect for paneling.
justusandersson: Roof slope and the placement of support legs, as shown in a sectional drawing.
Strontus: [citat] My point is that just because you buy an old house, it doesn't mean it's built with environmentally friendly techniques.
plåtrickard: Lindab and planja have sharp elbow bends in their range, reinzink I don't know
Botdog: [citat] Hm, good consideration - I'm familiar with the moisture/condensation issue, but I hadn't thought about the aspect of negative pressure before... in other words, it might be lucky that I'm working specifically in the utility room - I have an exhaust air heat pump and extraction in the same utility room, so there's slight negative pressure just there. Thanks for the tip.
Plettan1: [citat] I'm not knowledgeable about this. But at least now I know that it shouldn't be the way it is now. Thanks for the feedback!
myrstack: Most barn constructions only have B-class pipes and parts, so there will likely be a number of pipes embedded that are not according to the regulations. There are plenty of threads about this with the conclusion that Bauhaus, Hornbach and others are out, and strangely enough, one has to go to Biltema to find bd-classed (unless buying from a reputable place).
jonaserik: Nothing wrong with that. It's normal for the gable to be tight and the eave itself not to be sealed. Air should be able to flow into the attic through sparse gaps with insect netting above. No flying insects should get in there.
Oldboy: [citat] Sometimes everything is replaced at the same time, but far from always. You might get damage (mechanical or moisture-related) locally and then you only want/need to address the area where the damage is. It could also be that, due to weather or time constraints, you want to tackle one wall at a time. Additionally, if a window or door is replaced and changes size, you might need/want to
Höghus: Three options I can think of -6mm plasterboard on chipboard, tile on plasterboard and plaster with an open joint under tile between plasterboard/plaster. -Same as above but with a taped joint using paper tape. -6mm plasterboard on chipboard and then an additional layer of 6mm plasterboard on the entire surface to be tiled. I'm leaning towards option 2 right now. If paper tape works against cracks
Staffans2000: There we go. Now it's done! During the summer, the wall has straightened itself, probably due to drier weather. The attachment to the ceiling was solved with some French screws, several anchor screws, and whatever I had at home. To further over-engineer the construction, I welded longitudinal flat iron to the frames for additional space for screws. Unfortunately, the fuse blew after four seconds,
Vante: Acoustic panels are available from 15mm that are glued with, for example, Devils Glue.
Smarteus: I have a wall that's banana-shaped and I'm planning to mount three wall-hung String shelves/boxes. It will be about 240cm long with four String brackets. The wall is brick/concrete = screws + plugs hold very firmly. Since the wall is so curved, I thought of screwing up a planed pine plank and painting it. On the sides, I can secure it with screws + plugs directly against the wall and in the
Eribe: Building an outdoor staircase in natural stone and considering how the stones should be attached to each other. It is a small staircase with two steps that is 180 cm wide. For the risers, I am using limestone blocks (about 11x30x20 cm hewn blocks), and for the treads, I am using sawn porphyry slabs (30 cm wide in varying lengths). The challenge is that the limestone blocks are a bit uneven, and
justusandersson: I am absolutely not a specialist in log cabin constructions, but in this case, it is apparent that the braces have the same function as collar beams: to counteract the roof's pressure on the house's sides. I think your idea should work, to combine vertical iron with tie rods that are below floor level. Adding new collar beams at an appropriate height should make it feel secure.
Snickarkirre: If you first mount the door using spacers underneath to align it, place spacers so you have at least a 5 mm clearance at the highest point of the floor, allowing the concrete to flow out there as well. Then remove the spacers once the door is in place. You will then need to place a board or similar form on both sides of the door. You should place one about 10 mm out from the threshold to allow