Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bronken: Doesn't look optimal as mentioned. The panel should have been cut, and the metal should be under/inside. Had a similar problem after an ill-considered addition to a shed. I extended a metal sheet up to the horizontal edge that had an overhang. Kind of like this, but with the placement of your "midjelist" it won't turn out well anyway. [bild] Tight but not very pretty. Interesting to hear if
Ewa i Tofta: [citat] That sounds reasonable! It felt like a Catch-22. Thanks for the answer, I'll call them tomorrow!
Frippe78: Apparently, I had a cousin who works at a steel construction company that deals with these beams, so he would get a good price :)
Utsliten och utdömd: [citat] Our only bedrooms are in the "attic" so it is used. Or are you referring to the knee walls and the space above the bedrooms, between the collar beam and the ridge? The knee walls are empty except for a box with some Christmas decorations, so there is the possibility to do something more or less whatever. The knee walls are almost 2 meters wide, which means we don't have sloped ceilings in
Eccoes: A little update then. Used materials I already had at home instead of spending money on buying new ones, so it became 145x45 at the bottom and two 95x45 in a "T" as studs. [bild] [bild]
Grizzlybjörnen123: Picture of the house
Lato: [citat] Cut a couple of pieces of drywall. Insert them into the steel stud. Then just screw through the drywall again into the wall. Holds firmly. Done it many times.
BirgitS: Elastic paintable sealant can be the best choice if you don't want to redo the work with the moldings, etc. In the lower left corner of the first image, it looks like there might be water damage.
GHP: The chimney sweep's latest visit resulted in a vague disapproval of my stove installation on the old existing chimney flue. It apparently leaked an acceptably small amount (1.7), but since he couldn't/wouldn't/didn't want to see where the incredible volume of smoke was "pouring" from, he still chose to disapprove the installation, and the decision was not open for questioning. Since we have a
Snickarkirre: Then it's probably safest to secure it with either a board or joist hanger or whatever you want. If there's nothing left of the joint, even chemical anchors might not help unfortunately. It's probably best if you make the hole as big as the joint so that the chemical anchors grip onto the bricks and not the joint. Then it should stay in place at least.
andersmc: [citat] You should attach the molding to a board or something similar, e.g., with double-sided tape.
JoMaV: Hello! Hoping for some help from someone more knowledgeable than me. We have an old traditional pizza arch (when is that going to be in style again by the way?) in our house. I'm planning to renovate the living room and want to install a double door instead of the arch. The door is quite high, and my biggest concern is whether there's a high load-bearing beam above the pizza arch that I currently
perlundstrom: Untidy picture, but I have a studio that I rent out. Everything is good except for the kitchen, which is very basic. There is a microwave and a movable oven that can be used. I will buy a new hot plate that is in better condition than the one in the picture. What I am wondering about here, however, is building a countertop that can be folded up or down along the wall. Like in the picture. For
LyckansHus: Thank you so much for the detailed response! We have some things to consider now :) I might get back to you... Since we have very low ceilings, it's not possible to use a beam with the dimensions you've mentioned for the joists. It's only 2.07 meters in ceiling height, an old farm with a 200-year-old residence that's been partially renovated over the years. I'm aware that square shapes are worse.
Gustaf.P: [citat] No dots on the maps I can see from the municipality.
guggen: Then I'll have to give feedback. It became a 10cm slab of Weber coarse concrete. I made the slope directly in the concrete. After about 6 weeks, I laid tiles with Ardex S48, a bit tricky/creamy tile adhesive if you're not used to it, but it turned out okay. Now, nearly 4 months later, it looks just as good as when it was done.
Jonatan79: Post pictures here too. Maybe someone has experienced something similar!
ANDERS LUNDQUIST1: Building: Insulated storage 25 sqm. Material: insulated concrete slab on ground. What materials should I use to protect my base about 20 cm up from the concrete slab? Sill and wall material consist of 120 x 45 on sill insulation. Exterior: windproof paper, vertical exterior panel with insulated horizontal nail battens 28 x 70. At the bottom against the concrete slab, I want a protective material
Mazen: You can cut the panel most easily with a multi-tool, then patch in with plaster and spackle. Glue a paper strip over the joint to reinforce it. If you can take down the cabinet it will make things easier, but it's not necessary.
Maskinen89: What kind of insulation is in the intermediate floor? Seems to be between both the basement and the upper floor. Feels like burnt cork approximately. Best regards, Maskinen
Anita Nyblom: Want to widen a doorway in an old house with standing timber. Load-bearing wall. From 70cm to 110cm. Which glulam beam and which saw should we use??
Robert-san01: It is possible to find the screws that the boards are screwed with using a magnet. For example, a Hole in One used for electrical boxes also works for drywall screws. I have a simple screw finder from Stanley. It works surprisingly well. [bild]
BSOD: If it can't withstand a little vibration, I think they are poorly mounted.
parandersandersson: Hello! Nice! What kind of cabinet is at the bottom of the shelf? Regards, Pär
heppe72: Hello. I have attached the first panel board to the ceiling with screws nearest to the wall. I was planning to attach the rest with 3-4mm panel clips. I have previously installed sauna panels, and that worked well, but these panel boards have a tongue that is only 2mm (from Byggmax groove panel). This means that now the first board, which is up with screws (as mentioned) in the batten underneath,
Bonka: [citat] I have built several climbing structures for the children from pine trunks that I have tarred and buried. An example here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/vad-har-ni-gjort-med-er-traedgard-idag.226977/page-355#post-4180909 You can't see the ground in the picture, but the pole is about 4m high above ground and easily holds for an adult to climb without tipping over. According to the
LyckansHus: I might possibly ask the question about load-bearing capacity in another thread, I'll look around a bit first to see if I can find a tool that can calculate load-bearing points. A friend with an architecture degree (not active though) advised me that there is a formula...
Luddis_1: Matches or similar items can be used to fill in the hole and guide the screw to the desired position. Perhaps not the best solution but it works perfectly fine anyway.