Building Materials and Construction Technology
nybyggarn3: I think baseboards are a bit less critical than door trims because you can cut them slightly long so they press into the corners.
neo11: You can do a little planing, it becomes a bit uneven when you've used furring strips. But the walls must be completely straight; use a straightedge. It's not a bathroom, but tiling becomes easier if the walls are straight.
DenNyfikne: [citat] It's warm above. Okay. But then I can sleep peacefully for now. ☺️ Thank you so much for the response! Have a nice weekend!
neo11: The only way to properly fix the crack is to chip off the plaster on the whole house and replaster it. Then the crack might come back in a few years. Edit: see that this is an old thread
xLnT: [citat] Yes, they are a bit short, I took 5.2x110mm C4
Daahornbo: No, it doesn't get hot, maybe just a little lukewarm. I do have decorations in different materials there without any problems.
justusandersson: It could be truss rafters, I don't see any signs of an attic interior. In that case, the dimensions would be quite small in that part of France. Against real hurricane forces, not much holds up.
byggarebosse: The post bases (Byggmax, 50 cm posts) are in the ground. Now it's time for posts for a 120 cm fence... I'm a bit hesitant - I tested and an M12 fits snugly through the holes in the post bases, but perhaps I should go with M10 instead. Advantages, disadvantages? I think offhand that M12 won't be able to move at all (advantage) whereas M10 might (disadvantage) since the hole is slightly larger than
Tobbelobben: [citat] Now the good suggestions are rolling in... A sandwich it is! Then I'll also avoid burning the kids or myself on the outer plate of the hatch. Thanks, Dan!
Düsseldorff: Open up the crack with a spatula. Carefully dust off, no loose plaster. Repair the crack with repair filler (type multi filler). Sand. Tape with fiberglass tape or paper strip. Apply joint compound. Sand. Paint.
Lattjo-Snickaren: [citat] Your second option here was also what I first considered. But I was afraid that the outer walls would extend inward more into the house body then - or can I position the 195-base about 45 mm outside the edge of the concrete slab (or more?) - will the wall frames still stand stably on the slab then?
Dan M: Old thread, noticed that I didn't reply. In the end, I did as @Thomas_Blekinge suggested; filled up with paving stones and levelling compound around it. Figured that floor wouldn't be loaded anyway. Let it dry for a couple of weeks. It turned out well in the end, even and smooth surface, and it hasn't settled yet...
justusandersson: Dense, straight-grained, and knot-free gives the best results. C 24 should not contain many large knots as it should be taken from better, visually sorted timber. An alternative is to use outer paneling of Norrland spruce and screw-gluing. Tie beams used to almost always consist of double boards with spacers. Tie beams are exposed to tensile forces which is good to keep in mind.
justusandersson: 18 mm birch plywood is a fantastic material to work with. Even the quality you are considering. I believe it has 15 layers. I would skip a furunos and just round off the plywood edge. As a base for painting with covering paint, the birch plywood is superior. It withstands much more wear. Then, make sure the staircase is stable before the renovation so you don't have problems with creaking.
pacman42: [citat] Yes, I have done something similar. In my case, however, it was channel plastic. There is no insulation between the channel plastic on top of the beam, i.e., no insulation where the channel plastic meets the ridge. Idiotic construction. If I had beveled on top, it would have been better and tighter.
Falken123: Hello, I am in a similar situation and wonder how the removal of your fireplace might have affected the natural draft in your house. I have my fireplace upstairs and am about to remove it but am concerned about how it will affect the overall ventilation. I have a house with natural draft. I haven't used the fireplace much, but suspect that its chimney might also be intended as an outlet for
Skånepåg: Now I have (finally) made a proper drawing instead of my schematic sketch. Something I actually forgot in my previous sketch was the chimney.
Simonsilver: The house is built 69… The electrician is coming this week and will look at some other things, he might as well take a glance at this too.
David Noorzoy: Hello! Thanks for the question. We have removed panels in the ceiling outside the house and crawled down to the edge of the roof in the attic. We do not see any problem with sagging trusses or steel beams. The problem with the sagging ceiling in the dining room appears from the middle of the dining room to the patio door. We now believe it's because the previous owner removed a load-bearing wall
Snickarkirre: As Rickard.ag wrote. Just make sure to check that the screw is for steel studs or a combo screw. There are both chipboard screws and drywall screws that are only for wooden studs and they won't grip.
Robert-san01: Forgot to mention that I was using "Dubb"/metal anchor plug.
BengtH: [citat] In the past, one used to burn the ends of the posts that were going into the ground to prevent rot. But perhaps questionable since the posts are impregnated? :thinking:
Mario: Helping a friend renovate a house, a Boro-house from 1970. Currently demolishing the kitchen for upcoming renovation. Taking down the plasterboard on the walls for upcoming electrical installation, today all the electrical wiring is mounted externally in plastic channels. Discovered when we started tearing down the plasterboard that in all the panel joints there is a glued rubber sealing strip.
BSOD: Yes, drill again. If it becomes a large oval hole (instead of two holes near each other), you can sometimes insert something like matches/toothpicks to make the hole a bit tighter so the plug fits. You can also apply some mounting glue in the hole if you're unsure. Exactly how you should do it also depends a bit on the load: is it a kitchen cabinet or a lightweight picture frame you're putting
justusandersson: When you have to fill the space between the studs (as with 45 mm), I believe it is better to use insulation with a greater volumetric weight than glass wool. Keep in mind that different types of measures are required for the sound insulation to be effective across the entire frequency range.
elpaco: And yes - the plaster is cosmetic. You can wait to fix it if you, for example, want to focus on the upper floor first. The important thing mentioned above is not to have organic material standing/lying on a cold slab and to keep the basement at room temperature and dehumidified.
brfbo: An alternative I've seen is to have horizontal paneling partway up the wall and the rest vertical, adding a little extra "life" to the room. When I installed beadboard at home, I glued it up to avoid unwanted gaps, and it has worked for several years now, though I'm not sure if there are any risks with gluing?