Calculate load-bearing capacity - moving pillars and replacing roof beam (house 200 years old)
I wrote a thread earlier today where I needed advice on columns in wood or metal near a fireplace. I received a very good suggestion (see the thread here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/pelare-vid-vedspis-trae-eller-metall.433360/) but it involves that I have to move a load-bearing beam 75 cm closer to the wall/chimney. The question is whether the load-bearing capacity is sufficient..?? I have tried to figure out the available programs, but my basic knowledge is lacking.. 
Once upon a time there was a wall here, but it has been replaced by a ceiling beam and a column in the room, which is placed 160 cm from the right wall. The distance between the right wall and up to the chimney/left wall is 470 cm long. A portion of the wall remains (75 cm wide). Since it is made of wood and does not meet the requirement for the distance between the fireplace and the fireproof wall, instead of reinforcing it with fire protection, we want to remove the wall. It will also make the kitchen more airy.
We will build a column along the chimney/fireplace for the new ceiling beam to rest on (the old ceiling beam is too short and needs to be replaced).
We will lift the floor; if there is no beam/stone wall/foundation under the column that my brother-in-law installed when the kitchen and adjacent room were merged, I will prop up stones in the crawl space right there to create more support, but I assume there is already a support beam.
I will post more pictures below; here is a sketch of the kitchen from above. I would be grateful if someone could help me with the calculation or give tips on where I can find information that even a non-builder can understand
Once upon a time there was a wall here, but it has been replaced by a ceiling beam and a column in the room, which is placed 160 cm from the right wall. The distance between the right wall and up to the chimney/left wall is 470 cm long. A portion of the wall remains (75 cm wide). Since it is made of wood and does not meet the requirement for the distance between the fireplace and the fireproof wall, instead of reinforcing it with fire protection, we want to remove the wall. It will also make the kitchen more airy.
We will build a column along the chimney/fireplace for the new ceiling beam to rest on (the old ceiling beam is too short and needs to be replaced).
We will lift the floor; if there is no beam/stone wall/foundation under the column that my brother-in-law installed when the kitchen and adjacent room were merged, I will prop up stones in the crawl space right there to create more support, but I assume there is already a support beam.
I will post more pictures below; here is a sketch of the kitchen from above. I would be grateful if someone could help me with the calculation or give tips on where I can find information that even a non-builder can understand
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To be able to calculate beam dimensions, you need to know the measurements, what is on the floor above, how the roof construction looks, and which snow zone the house belongs to. I believe the column is a decoration.
It is an old house and has a classic log wall with beams in the ceiling as they built back then (200 years old). The roof slope is steep, estimated around 30°, and there is sheet metal on the roof. We live in snow zone 2 (southern Öland).
The column is as ugly as sin but is supposed to have a load-bearing function, at least that was the idea. It was not put there by us, but we plan to replace it with another one at the exact spot it is located today. It won't disturb much as it will become a natural divider by the kitchen table.
The upper floor is a normal upper floor with living space. The house continues in the same dimensions to the west with two more sections. The house has been extended over time, but the kitchen is original. In the crawl space, there are beams under all significant walls; it is dry and fine without damage. The kitchen also received a new joist system during a renovation about 20 years ago.
I am interested in finding old beams, does anyone know where one can get hold of such? We have forest, so maybe it's possible to fell a tree and take it to the sawmill to have it sawn..? Or does the wood need to dry for a long time before it can be used..? I also feel that you can't have everything in this world and can settle for a regular square beam... we have our hands full with other things in the house and can't spend too much time and effort on every little detail.
Measurements are written in cm.
The column is as ugly as sin but is supposed to have a load-bearing function, at least that was the idea. It was not put there by us, but we plan to replace it with another one at the exact spot it is located today. It won't disturb much as it will become a natural divider by the kitchen table.
The upper floor is a normal upper floor with living space. The house continues in the same dimensions to the west with two more sections. The house has been extended over time, but the kitchen is original. In the crawl space, there are beams under all significant walls; it is dry and fine without damage. The kitchen also received a new joist system during a renovation about 20 years ago.
I am interested in finding old beams, does anyone know where one can get hold of such? We have forest, so maybe it's possible to fell a tree and take it to the sawmill to have it sawn..? Or does the wood need to dry for a long time before it can be used..? I also feel that you can't have everything in this world and can settle for a regular square beam... we have our hands full with other things in the house and can't spend too much time and effort on every little detail.
Measurements are written in cm.
Best answer
I will try to keep it short, otherwise, it easily becomes a novel when it comes to old houses. Instead, ask questions. You cannot always apply modern thinking to such old houses. The construction is often over-engineered yet somewhat flimsy. The easiest way to get a beam with substantial dimensions that fits aesthetically is to go for glulam. In that case, you can choose a beam that spans the entire way (510 cm) without needing a pillar. From a construction standpoint, it's not ideal to have pillars that aren't centered. In Småland, there are probably countless sawmills that can cut large dimensions. If you have your own forest and can fell an old spruce or pine, it can become very good timber. Construction timber doesn't need to be furniture dry. It suffices with a fairly short storage time protected from rain after sawing. You can always drop by Capellagården in Vickleby and ask if they know of any good sawmills. If the roof construction consists of longitudinal beams (so that the roof doesn't load the beam), a glulam beam should be at least 140x315 mm. A beam of regular high-quality timber (dense, straight, and few knots) should be at least 150x330 mm. These are guesses based on the measurements you've provided and how I think the upper floor looks. They should be verified against the reality. Beams should ideally not be square in cross-section but narrow and tall. That way, they become much stiffer.
Thank you so much for the detailed response! We have some things to consider now I might get back to you...
Since we have very low ceilings, it's not possible to use a beam with the dimensions you've mentioned for the joists. It's only 2.07 meters in ceiling height, an old farm with a 200-year-old residence that's been partially renovated over the years. I'm aware that square shapes are worse. We will add more joists on the upper floor that rest on the outer walls (timber), that room has no interior walls, currently there is 90 cc between the joists, we'll add more to make it 45 cc. That should improve the overall load-bearing capacity as well.
I might get back to you... Since we have very low ceilings, it's not possible to use a beam with the dimensions you've mentioned for the joists. It's only 2.07 meters in ceiling height, an old farm with a 200-year-old residence that's been partially renovated over the years. I'm aware that square shapes are worse. We will add more joists on the upper floor that rest on the outer walls (timber), that room has no interior walls, currently there is 90 cc between the joists, we'll add more to make it 45 cc. That should improve the overall load-bearing capacity as well.