Building Materials and Construction Technology
Location: [citat] The "kattvindar" are included in the floor plan drawings, which are dated at the same time, but they are labeled as closets—so they probably were intended for storage, but not part of the truss construction back then. I talked with the neighbors who have houses built at the same time, and some of them didn’t even have "kattvindar" originally in the houses; instead, their upper floors
Dowser4711: Also have hopeless walls. What works to get things to stay is really long screws. 120-150mm anchor bolts or equivalent are good alternatives. (Check that the wall is thicker first. :) ) It's important to find good anchors, Fisher's and Essve's lightweight concrete anchors have given good results. Fisher's can be a bit tricky if the actual plaster is hard. Where it's really bad and needs to be
BSOD: Thin insulation is available to lay in, I believe it is 3 or 5cm thick insulation. There are also pre-made beams with a compressive strength of 5Mpa. https://www.se.weber/leca/lecar-balk/lecar-isobalk-350-3900 The U-beams I have seen have been with rebar, I don't think you need a cast-in I-beam, but it depends on the designer's requirements. I usually let the beam extend 20-30cm on each side of
Onsalakorven: [citat] I see I've read the drawing incorrectly (or not at all). There's a support in the middle of the house, not along the wall. Then IPE180 should be sufficient, and it takes up little space. Otherwise, some glulam beam might also work well.
villasuperstar: [citat] Absolutely, I don't have a picture but I can describe my approach. I got the idea from another place that it's really only the screw part that sits in the board that contributes to the sturdiness. So I drilled a small hole in an "electricity-free" spot where I could insert a piece of thin steel wire that I bent at the front (kind of like an L but with less than a 90-degree angle). With
KJD: Renovating shower room, and there are both interior walls (non-load-bearing) made of Siporex/lightweight concrete and so-called outer wall insulation of the same material. During floor chiseling and drilling for new pipes, the lightweight concrete has been severely damaged. I assume there's not much else to do but tear down and rebuild? Interested in opinions? What is the recommended material? I
raveper: Studs, insulation, and drywall are usually used to patch up holes.
bldr: Attaching a variant from Lundbergs. They deliver stair railings so it should hold... but it feels like there's a lot of leverage in a railing.
leby: [citat] Slamming is like "painting" with loosely mixed plaster mortar. I think plastering works best. You must, should then have guide lathes and plaster hooks to get the corners nice. Nail on a plaster net before. You don't need to fill the joints before, but if you want it to be really precise, first apply red plaster then a thick plaster. Red mortar/plaster is a bit like slamming.
lunnabo: [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] Cut asphalt edge with the cheapest angle grinder and diamond blade for 79 kr at Jula. Laid large cobblestones in crushed stone layers and finished with a 450 kg compactor. Will never move, either upward, downward, or sideways.
Lerhol86: [citat] Thanks for the advice! Sounds wise even if the wallet takes a hit.
Damir Koprivanac: Hello. I have built a small wall with 90mm Leca blocks by my chimney, but when we mounted a steel beam on it, we accidentally hit the wall, and it moved a few mm. The mortar has cracked the entire way from floor to ceiling. I need to saw out the mortar and reapply it, but since it's in place, I can't reach it with typical mortar using masonry tools... I simply can't apply it. There will be a gap
Avemo: If it's treetex, it's soft so you can easily stick a needle through it. If there are just a few cracks like the one in the picture, perhaps the easiest solution is to use paper strips and filler. If there are significant uneven areas, it might be easier to replace the boards with gypsum. It's better from a fire safety standpoint as well.
ArneTW: If it is a ridge beam and the joists resting against each other on top of the ridge beam are properly fastened together. Then there are no tensile forces at all in the horizontal joist. It does no harm, but it is not needed... /ATW
Daniel Barnaniel: Aha- maybe the upper foam compensates for level differences for some reason? There should be insulation under the concrete if I understand correctly - villa slab from -91? Check the drawings, for example. No problems with the foam, I think the chipboard is a bit odd. Forget the eps, didn't realize you have foam at home. With foam: so-called root mesh (thin reinforcement mesh) that the loop is
Karl Olssvan: Wires should not be spliced inside walls. The water pipe must have a distribution, and it should be outside walls. If this is not the case, you can create your own fix. You simply need to open the wall where the splice is, cut the pipe directly after the Y-junction, and plug it. Then there will be a short stretch of water that stands still. You must not build over this again. Instead, you need to
Herr Klocka: Okay, I'll remember to knock before I drill. Thanks for the tip!
Workingclasshero: Personally, I would never tear down a barn; what's built can be repaired. What's the condition of the roof, and why should it be demolished? Not only I but many others need spaces under a roof. But if it has to be demolished, you can tear down and dispose of the roof yourself, then an excavator can do the rest and pack it into containers, provided it can't be burned this winter. Good luck /W
TheGame: [citat] Yes, outer corners are a different matter, it looks odd especially if you have, for example, white moldings.
Düsseldorff: Here are some pictures. Not sure if it makes you much wiser from it... Blasting stone dry-stacked in wedge shape on sloping mountain, so that the top of the wall forms a flat surface where you can walk around. Stairs up in the middle. The wall is about 220 cm high. Edit: It's about 400 cm deep as well, so wall and wall... [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild]
JohnÅkerlund: Has anyone built a bathroom with diffusion-open walls, floors, and ceilings? Looking for experience and facts about this. This concerns a new house that is to be built, so a discussion about the construction is ongoing.
Hästängsudd: [citat] F5 is diffusion-open so it does breathe, but I agree that it is an expensive option.
hackatall: Perhaps it was lyhört. In that case, the solution was good, it effectively dampens the sound.
justusandersson: Good with glulam all the way. If the span is no longer than 1.2 meters, 45x245 is sufficient if you can get that size. It is not standard. Otherwise, use glulam. Better with a narrower one than two double if you need to recess into the studs. [citat] Not if they have substantial dimensions and are braced laterally.
hackatall: [citat] With a T-beam, you can have the intermediate floor planks resting on something. This isn't possible with an H-beam if you want the bottom edge of the beam to be at the same level as the ceiling.
Jonas Bruzelius: Hello, I have a Hultsfred house from 1965 with a brick facade. All the inner walls consist of fiberboard. The insulation between the 30 cm wide studs is something that resembles slightly softer masonite. This smells a bit stale, probably due to the binder. I'm in the process of removing all the insulation to replace it with non-smelling material. The insulation is glued on either side of the stud
AndersMalmgren: [citat] It depends a bit on how thick the parquet is. If it's genuine solid wood, it usually is quite thick, and then there is plenty of room to work. Just remove it, level it up, and lay tile. If it's laminate, the floor can be quite thin.
pette: [citat] Then we have a tiny house in comparison..:) We have 78 sqm x 2. We drilled and installed geothermal heating as the first thing we did, and that installation has paid for itself many times over, I can say. But we use about 20,000 kWh for 5 people. And I also do some heating with wood. It's still impressive that you manage to keep electricity consumption down to 15,000 kWh on 260 sqm with