Tomture61 Tomture61 said:
straight vs angle-cut (makes no difference)
You haven't read his question?
 
Tomture61
F fribygg said:
Which, by the way, has proven to be the worst choice for facade painting, it's probably better to leave the wood completely unpainted than to coat the outside and end with a dense paint that doesn't release moisture.
Acrylic paint, however, is the most common paint for wood paneling.
 
Tomture61
K Kane said:
Did you not read his question?
Replying to your post + clarifying for the ignorant who do not understand better (not directed at you)
 
Tomture61 Tomture61 said:
Acrylic paint is, however, the most common paint for wood paneling.
That doesn't mean it's the best paint. Acrylic works on a modern ventilated facade. At least until it's time to repaint...
 
  • Like
fribygg
  • Laddar…
Tomture61 Tomture61 said:
Acrylic paint is, however, the most common paint for wood paneling.
That something is common or "most common" doesn't necessarily mean it's the best? (or even suitable)
If you want to maximize the profits of building suppliers, you probably buy fast-growing poor-quality wood with cracks and other defects for your facade and paint it all around with an inappropriate dense paint..
 
  • Like
Fotografen
  • Laddar…
useless useless said:
Acrylic works on a modern ventilated facade. At least until it's time to repaint...
Does it give longer durability than leaving the wood completely untreated?
 
F fribygg said:
Does it provide more durability than leaving the wood completely untreated?
If done correctly with the right conditions, the paint protects the wood. The issues with acrylic paint are partly that it can't be painted over, so the wood needs to be replaced after 15-20 years regardless of condition, and partly that people use the same type of paint for fascia boards, railings, etc., which are painted all around and rot away within five years.
 
  • Haha
Jansson69
  • Laddar…
Tomture61
F fribygg said:
That something is common or "most common" doesn't necessarily mean it's the best? (or even suitable)
If you want to maximize the profit for the building suppliers, you'd probably buy fast-grown, poor quality wood with cracks and other defects for your facade and paint it all over with an unsuitable tight paint...
Most common doesn't need to mean worst.
Acrylic paint also has many advantages.
Long lifespan - retains gloss for a long time - moves with the wood.
 
Tomture61
useless useless said:
If done correctly with the right conditions, the paint protects the wood. The problems with acrylic paint are partly that it cannot be painted over, so the wood needs to be replaced anyway after 15-20 years regardless of condition, and partly that people use the same type of paint for bargeboards, stair railings, etc. which are painted all around and rot away within five years.
Where have you found that an acrylic-painted facade cannot be repainted? 🤔
 
  • Like
MONTREAL
  • Laddar…
Magnus E K
Has original paneling (62 years old) on about half of the facade (brick on the gables and for some unknown reason new paneling on half of the southern side), painted with several layers of plastic paint and almost like new (or better). However, it has a high basement foundation and substantial eaves, so nothing is close to the ground and it doesn't rain on it very often.
 
  • Like
Tomture61
  • Laddar…
useless useless said:
The problems with acrylic paint are partly that it cannot be painted over, so the wood needs to be replaced anyway after 15-20 years regardless of condition, and partly that people use the same type of paint for bargeboards, stair railings, etc., which are painted all around and rot away within five years.
Painting over is fine. Do you mean changing the type of paint?
 
Tomture61 Tomture61 said:
Common doesn't have to mean the worst.
Acrylic paint also has many advantages.
Long lifespan - retains gloss for a long time - moves with the wood.
But for facade painting, both alkyd oil paint and linseed oil paint are better if you prioritize a long lifespan for the facade.
 
F fribygg said:
Welcome to Byggahus!

If you geek out on such details, you risk @qfrantellus never finishing your house...
Haha, no, I won't either! (Nail on the head, so to speak)
 
K
F fribygg said:
If you have a high-paid academic profession, you probably don't haul planks home yourself (unless you're intending to choose the best pieces at the lumber yard) but rather order what you need for your construction and renovation projects and discard any single piece if it's bad..
Ehhh, well?
If you earn a very high salary, have too little time, or are just generally damn lazy, then maybe.

I myself have >6 years of university studies (only one degree, unfortunately) and am relatively highly paid. However, that doesn't mean I throw money around.

In Sweden, we have electricians who earn >a million annually, who can't tell the difference between battens and decking - how do you think they should act? They probably don't buy stuff at normal prices but get a bunch of discounts or know someone who can steal the stuff...
 
K Kane said:
Bevel the boards and you're safe. Empirically tested for many years in Sweden.
If you bevel them, you increase the cut surface, so it becomes counterproductive.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.