Building Materials and Construction Technology
maja.andersson27189: Depends. Mold growth can occur somewhere around 16-17%, but the characteristic smell of treated beams can appear long before that. Do you notice any smell?
fredrik_pe: [citat] hello, very old thread, so a long shot.. but I was wondering how this turned out? I am facing a similar project with the ceiling.
Matti_75: [citat] The nail stays where you want it. We fasten everything that way as it's the easiest method. In your case, I would use Hilti Bx3 with 14mm stålspk
Renovator 88: [citat] Thank you so much for all the information and help, yes it feels good when walking on the upper floor, and before I removed the post, I measured from the floor to the ceiling to see if there was any drop or not, so when I removed it and measured again, there wasn't even 1 mm difference. But I'm thinking of putting the post back anyway on the 95x45 noggin that's there and support it with
McCarl: I was considering buying birch plywood BB/BB interior 1220x2440x18 mm. I was a bit shocked when I got the price of 2,715 SEK per sheet. Timber prices have skyrocketed, but is it a reasonable price right now?
Buildgates: [citat] It's probably as you say, with the short-sightedness and profit maximization that prevails today. But it is a bit frightening if it becomes too expensive with craftsmanship and quality. What has happened to professional pride? And which other assembly instructions are being ignored?
Skogen29: [citat] Thank you for your response. Hmm about 2 days I think I waited, maybe should have waited longer... but I removed it and applied a new layer of filler. I'll upload a picture if it comes back.
surris: [citat] It's totally okay :) but it felt like there was a bit of irony in the post as well. I would have taken it too, but then used it somewhere where it didn't matter if it was mold-damaged. Seems like you've got good answers on what you can do to fix the mold, go for it :D
amoreex: Now about a year later, it's begun.. The door will be mounted in its original place next to the bathroom. So the wall will be 120 with OSB and plasterboard. The beam will remain for the future.. But what I'm now considering. I've bought insulation.. But I'm starting to doubt if it's worth insulating since the other interior walls are uninsulated? It's only about 500 SEK.. But it's a bit of extra
gluecifer: "Kreativt dyr" was a phrase I'll take with me :) But you're right, it won't take too much fortunately. It'll be our alternative summer project.
justusandersson: No, that wall cannot be load-bearing. Whether it is wood or concrete flooring, it would not be useful in that way.
useless: You probably need to start by investigating a bit more about how it's constructed. 'Träbjälklag' just means that it is mainly made of wood. It doesn't say anything about the exact construction. Perhaps the simplest thing is to drill a hole in a less visible spot?
fribygg: [citat] Ok, and how do you think that affects timber prices?
icrackracquets: I have removed a partition wall in the house. Where the wall met the outer wall, there is a large gap (20mm) between the plasterboards with insulation in them. Behind the insulation, there is a rubber strip. I was planning to fill the gaps with foam and then plaster over it. But now it's clear that it's an expansion joint for the house. I need to do something to tidy it up a bit. I've tried to
Norrtull: I have done something similar with grout bought from byggmax, it might be a bit of a waste with grout, but it has worked very well. Then tape, spackle, and paint. It has lasted from late summer until now. Not a single crack yet :crysmile:
hemmafixaren98: Thanks for the tip :) Why 20+20 and not 40 with eps? I'm pretty sure about EPS below - however, I haven't decided above. It's a challenge to get isolation, low height, and for them to withstand some jumping/training as well... (and preferably quick, but short and sporadic warming) I saw that Wirsbo/Uponor has a product sheet of 233 pages... Not everything is relevant to read through, of course,
Bjerke88: Got a response to my email just now. "Hei. Skal gjøre en korrigering på dette. Vi oppgir kun «sponplateskrue» på andre språk."
Johan Lorentzon: A thousand thanks for all the wise answers and ideas. In a newly moved-in apartment, I chose the easiest way: There was a brick wall next to the drywall, and with my arm maximally extended to the side, I could mount the TV on it and still have the TV in the right position in front of the drywall. Grateful that I didn't mount it on the drywall - I now feel the risk of it collapsing is sky-high.
salahunreal: Thank you for the response. I have received some offers with 6000 Kr but I am not jumping over. Should not save much.
nino: I thought I had been clear but it's difficult to convey properly maybe [bild] So I would like to cut away the red and pull a 110 pipe this way, blue circle
Tompafix: 16cm steps do not make a steep staircase, but the step length is very short. If you measure the floor space that the stairs currently occupy as well as the floor-to-floor measurement, you'll get a better idea of what can be done. Is it an open or closed staircase? Under the steps, that is Edit. The ratio between the step depth and the step height is incorrect. That's why it's difficult to walk on
thomasx: Hello I need help with building in a fairly large stove, intended for encasement, into a chimney where there is currently a slightly smaller opening after an old open fireplace that has been removed. Anyone have any tips on a nice and skilled mason in Gothenburg and surrounding areas who can help me?
Tompafix: https://www.isover.se/applications/snedtak https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktionsexempel/bjalklag/
Matti_75: Plasterboard is available at all well-stocked building stores.
Viktor.J: [citat] on the floor plinth or the frame you've built? there are adjustment screws for windows, etc. that can be used. How uneven is it?