Building Materials and Construction Technology
ArneTW: I would have built on top so that it can be easily restored. A sound expert will probably show up eventually... /ATW
robkit: Hello, I am planning to add a floor to my house, which has a brick facade. My question concerns the reinforcements needed in the outer walls since the new roof trusses will transfer much more load than the current ones. The house is single-story and has a rather low attic where you can barely stand upright. I have been informed that I might need to tear down the brick facade to insert extra studs
Unikt namn: If you are going to shuffle things from the laundry basket on the right to the washing machine on the left side, wouldn't doors that open from the "middle" be easier? It should be possible for both the WM and laundry basket to stand directly on the floor, then you use the cabinet more as a shell to hide everything. [bild]
klaskarlsson: To attach such a sheet, you should remove the cover panel so that it ends up behind it, which is a job in itself. Then you will probably need to replace at least a couple of these cover boards. You should also check how your foundation is ventilated, so you don't block any existing ventilation that should be there; if so, you might need to install vents in 'good' locations. This would probably be
HelgaRee: [citat] Hourly rate, but he has been very accommodating and came back to caulk, not everywhere though, but it looks better now in some places. Yes, it is reasonable, of course, that we have to pay for the work time he put in, although he said he would do this free of charge. But we'll see when the invoice arrives!
justusandersson: 10500 MPa corresponds to the characteristic modulus of elasticity for L40c (non-homogeneous beam), which I consider as the standard class for beams that are +180 mm high. For deflection calculations, you can use 13000 MPa. Homogeneous glue-laminated timber, L40s (beams that can be split), is slightly higher.
Davion: Hello, I would like some input on what might be considered the "right order" for me to tackle things. We are going to gut the entire upper floor. This roughly involves: - Taking down a wall between the kitchen/living room - Removing the walls that make a "walk-through" office part of the new living room - Creating a new room for child #2 at one end of the living room - Renovating the existing
Axel bolander: [citat] Correctly observed - unless they built the chimney stack separately during the 1939 construction, the left side must have been built up later - however, it's not visible on any of the original drawings. The entire wall is load-bearing. They might have opened up a door there at some point in history that was later closed up... Anyway - the problem is now solved (used Weber 148 Hydraulic
ludwigdanieloliwer: [citat] Thanks for the tip! So if I, for example, drill 35MM and secure the dowel from behind with a screw. How much weight do you think it can handle?
patdau: Old cold garage. I want to create frost-free storage and a place for the cats to be. Maybe throw in an exercise bike as well. I intend to spend as little money as possible and do not plan to frame anything on the concrete floor, just let it be. How should I think regarding a vapor barrier and insulation in the wooden wall above the masonry part? Best regards, Patrik
martin43: If the sill is on 2 cm insulation, what is holding it up? Take a look behind the insulation.
Rickard.: Isn't it most reasonable to order ready-made roof trusses and let them handle all the problems? With regular roof trusses, there is no problem with splicing if it's done in the right way and in the right place.
MECASA: Planning to build a new cabin. (with crawl space) Seasonal residence. How can I best keep rodents away? I thought fiberglass insulation in the floor structure was OK, but experts/pest controllers say that rats love it. Wrap the floor structure with "metal boxes"? 🙁
mariacarlstedt: We need to raise the ceiling in our barn (the floor of the hayloft, which includes the lowest transverse part of the roof trusses. There are two transverse parts on the truss as the roof is a mansard roof, meaning with two different angles on the roof slope). The building is about 11 meters wide and 32 meters long. Currently, the ceiling is at 2.20 (and the roof ridge is surely an additional 3
Gustaf.P: I think I'll solve this with 3mm masonite board and renovation gypsum. It's the easiest. I can't handle redoing the entire wall with gypsum.
Ali Ahmed: Hello I am going to install district heating to my house, which was built in 1975. Houses from the 70s are well-known for having moisture problems due to "slab on grade." "Already in the 60s, houses began being built with a 'slab on grade,' and in the 70s, it became the standard. Since these slabs lacked insulation against the ground, moisture problems have been more the rule than the exception
Wallawhoa: [citat] Thanks for the quick response! Then I’ll go with 2x 4” cc 600. I was unsure if I should have gone with larger dimensions, 5” or 100-120 screws and fastened with 1 screw/nail in each wall stud. But two feels better, for sure. Now the hammer will get some work! Thanks again!
fribygg: [citat] standing plaster you attach to horizontal OSB if you don't have a nail/gun, because then it can be both cheaper and better to put 17mm raw plank behind the plaster
Topsy67: I am facing a similar project with an extension with a rooftop terrace. Curious if the construction has worked well? How is it with impact sound?
Hank_Ö: I have a fireplace and chimney from the 1940s that have many flaws. There are holes from nails from interior walls that have been attached, screw holes from a radiator that was screwed on, and cracks from settling. Some are very deep, others superficial. I thought I should do something about it now. Should I use refractory mortar for both the inside of the fireplace and the outside of the
Espen64: Hello. I have a house from 1924 that has fiber cement sheets on the exterior walls. I will now remove them and replace them with new 45 insulation and wood paneling. See image 1. I am considering horizontal paneling on the lower part, then vertical on the upper part. See image 2. I have a few questions about this. 1: Should I use different types of paneling for the vertical/horizontal sections,
scorp1on: 45x95 is no problem. I have thought like this: First and foremost, the wall extending out of the paper in section B-B does not seem to be load-bearing as the floor joists are not continuous over the beams beneath the wall. The imposed load between the compartments is therefore taken up by the floor joists, which appear to be fastened with joist hangers. The shear forces that arise are then
magge_: You could guide the drip down to the gutter with a piece of rope/string. Instead of the drip following the water, the string leads it down.
Bernieberg: The corner of the cabinet should probably be 45°, so then the saw should be set to half of this angle, which is 22.5°.
Daniel 109: Yes, it gets the entire load from the overhang and some more from the load inside.
Snickarkirre: I actually don't know what it might cost to have a tiler tile the kitchen. But if you're keen on doing it yourself, you can practically rent everything you need. You can easily make the holes for the outlets with a coromant hole saw that you attach to the angle grinder.